Either by yourself of had someone do it for you. The left rear LCA attachment point on the subframe is torn from my Type R swaybar on my 98 hatch. I had our fabricator TIG weld the tears, but if it doesn't hold I need to look into replacing it. My shop manual has nothing on this procedure, so if anyone has done this before, please PM me. Thanks!

B96v6

 

these cars are unibodys, subframes are not really "replaceable", without major fabrication and welding skills involved

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sicones &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">these cars are unibodys, subframes are not really "replaceable", without major fabrication and welding skills involved</TD></TR></TABLE>


yes you can replace the entire rear subframe. talk to your honda dealer on getting the subframe portion, then get intouch with charleston he has first hand knowlege of how to replace it...you might want to also ask him for his rear subframe brace as well....

https://honda-tech.com/zero...95761

 

the welds should hold if you get an ARS brace (I assume you had no bracing)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cxSHOE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


yes you can replace the entire rear subframe. talk to your honda dealer on getting the subframe portion, then get intouch with charleston he has first hand knowlege of how to replace it...you might want to also ask him for his rear subframe brace as well....

https://honda-tech.com/zero...95761</TD></TR></TABLE>

Great info. Thanks!

I am going to making a brace to tie the LCA mounting points together. Should help the torsional stiffness of the subframe.

As to the SF not being replaceable, it looks to just be spot welded and sealed with seam filler. It can be replaced, just not easily.

B

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the welds should hold if you get an ARS brace (I assume you had no bracing)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh, and I do have the Beaks reinforcement kit.

B

 

hmm another one bites the dust

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B96v6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Oh, and I do have the Beaks reinforcement kit.

B
</TD></TR></TABLE>

What exacly happened? And whats your suspension setup? I know the EK subframe is different from the EG/DC subframe. The swaybar mounts are in a shitty spot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Ej &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What exacly happened? And whats your suspension setup? I know the EK subframe is different from the EG/DC subframe. The swaybar mounts are in a shitty spot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, they certainly are. The car is lowered about 1.75-2 inches, but the springs were there when I bought the car, so i'm not sure of the brand. I have AGX's in the rear now, but the cracking occurred before I installed them. Other than that, I have an Si 26mm front bar and an Integra R 22mm rear w/ the Beaks kit and stock endlinks. Oh, and i'm using the washer camber trick in the rear. The cracking occurred on the upper mounting hole of the lefthand side. The crack propogated down the right side of the mount following the contour of where the subframe attaches to the chassis, and then down the lefthand side of the hole down the corner to the bottom of the mount. I wish I had a picture, but my car is 500 miles away right now. I'll take a picture when I put my swaybar back on and post it.

B

 

Replacing the subframe is a fairly straight forward process. Having the right tools makes all the difference. The subframe will cost you about 100 from the dealer.

You need to remove the fuel tank, LCA, muffler to aid subframe removal. You need to find all the spot welds and drill them out. Once you taken out the old subframe, test fit the new one on and trace all the holes you drilled previously on the new subframe. Then drill holes that is smaller on the new subframe. The hole is to enable a MIG welder wire to go through and puddle up making it look like a spot weld.

Here is a link to the pictures when I did my subframe replacement/reinforcement on my EK Sedan.

https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=3

Good luck! I hope this helps!

Charleston

 

Thanks for info; it was just what I needed. I may look into welding in those reinforcement plates like you did before re-installing the new subframe just to beef it up a little.

B