Hey guys,

I wanted to get some input or suggestions on a CRX fuel system that can support 500-600WHP but no more then 700WHP. I already know of a few types of setups good for that amount of power, but I didn't want to run a sumped fuel tank setup. I want to run a stock type intank setup, but if you guys think it's a bad idea for my power goals let me know why.

Here is what I was looking at...if you guys have a better suggestion for something let me know what you think I should do instead. But dont tell me to upgrade "just because" let me know why I should upgrade the part(s).

-Stock CRX DX fuel tank
-Stock fuel pump bracket OR Aftermarket one with NPT feed and return ports?
-8AN fuel feed from top of fuel pump bracket to fuel filter
-stock fuel filter-replace banjo fittings with 12mm x 1.25 hose end fittings
-8AN fuel feed to Edelbrock fuel rail
-RC saturated 750cc injectors-are there better brand names you would go with?
-6AN fuel return line to Aeromotive 13109 bypass FPR
-6AN fuel return from FPR to fuel tank (return line on fuel pump bracket has a hardline though)
-Walbro 255lph high pressure intank pump-are there better brand names you would go with?
-upgrade fuel pump wiring/wire it directly to the battery in my trunk-need some suggestions on how to do this.

So what do you guys think?
TIA

 

The only problem I see is your injector size. Your going to have really high duty cycles much above 500 with those.

 

probably gonna go with a 1000cc injector for those power levels to maintain a nice duty cycle. and if you dont wanna do a sump, look into the bosch pump and kit that stan sells.

 

thanks for the suggestions guys

I may end up selling the RC 750's, but I dont know what brand name to go with. I've been hearing people say thathte RC's aren't the best injectors out there. Is there a certain brand name that will work better then RC's? Precision, Seimens, etc.

I'll also check out the pump kit that Stan has. But what would I do about the stock fuel return line on the pump bracket? there's about 1 foot of hardline, and I want to try eliminating that. It's been a long time since I've messed with my fuel pump, but does that return line just empty out into the fuel tank? or does it get recirculated back into the fuel pump?

 

RC and Precision are Siemen Deka's/ Bosch.

 

I remember reading that RC's and Precision used the same type of core, but I didn't know which one it was. So these are all Bosch style injectors? Do the different companies modify them to their own specs so that they perform differently? I'm just looking for the most reliable injector. I dont know if a set of RC 1000cc's would be reliable enough, or if I should get a brand name that is "better", if in fact there are differences that make one brand better then another.

That's kindda the same reason I want to swap my Walbro for something else. Soon after I got my RC and Walbro I started hearing that they weren't the best injector/fuel pumps out there.

 

I think RC is a decent injector. I think precision is a goood injector as well. I think both companies test and flow them differently but they are the same mechanical parts as far as I know. Perhaps someone who knows more could chime in on this as well.

A lot of people run MSD injectors from the domestic side that I came from when getting into huge power levels. But I have a hunch they get them from Seimen Deka as well.

 

I run rc 1000s and they are maxed out on 650 hp

I have a stock feed line with a -6 off the fuel filter and edlebrock rail with a stock return line and it has worked fine with a walboro 255 HP pump

I also have a wideband in the car all the time and mos tof the time I race the car I have a laptop recording

deff ditcht he 750s for some 1000s

 

D@nnY,

Is your fuel pump wiring upgraded or did you connect the pump directly to the battery? I might just have to rethink my whole fuel system setup then. If you're able to make that much power on the stock lines, I might stay with stock lines too. If I do stay with stock fuel feed and return lines, what do you guys think I should do with the fuel filter? Can I continue on using the stock filter? Also I'm still going to use a metric fitting and SS line from filter to rail, but the fuel feed going into the filter is a stock banjo fitting.

Will that stock banjo fitting, and the stock filter restrict my fuel flow, or will I be ok with those too?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">D@nnY,

Is your fuel pump wiring upgraded or did you connect the pump directly to the battery? I might just have to rethink my whole fuel system setup then. If you're able to make that much power on the stock lines, I might stay with stock lines too. If I do stay with stock fuel feed and return lines, what do you guys think I should do with the fuel filter? Can I continue on using the stock filter? Also I'm still going to use a metric fitting and SS line from filter to rail, but the fuel feed going into the filter is a stock banjo fitting.

Will that stock banjo fitting, and the stock filter restrict my fuel flow, or will I be ok with those too?</TD></TR></TABLE>


my wiring is stock .....

the bottom fitting on the fuel filter isnt a banjo its like a normal compresion type self sealing fitting.....

get rid of the banjo on the top with a fitting and run a -6 or -8 feed to the rail and runa bigger fuel rail stock regulator and return line will be fine

I have an oem filter as well but jsut buy a new one

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jared &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">probably gonna go with a 1000cc injector for those power levels to maintain a nice duty cycle. and if you dont wanna do a sump, look into the bosch pump and kit that stan sells.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What the Subway guy said!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D@nnY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


my wiring is stock .....

the bottom fitting on the fuel filter isnt a banjo its like a normal compresion type self sealing fitting.....

get rid of the banjo on the top with a fitting and run a -6 or -8 feed to the rail and runa bigger fuel rail stock regulator and return line will be fine

I have an oem filter as well but jsut buy a new one </TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh that's right, I've seen that kind of fuel filter setup in my 94+ GSR service manual. The stock CRX fuel filter has a banjo bolt for the inlet and also one for the outlet. I can convert the outlet from filter to fuel rail no problem, but the fuel filter inlet will be harder to replace.

 

on ballards crx and on mine, we ran a walbro 255 hp with stock lines to the stock fuel filter, ran fast turbo -6 braided line kit " plug for stan" to the aftermarket fuel rail of your choice.Then we toped it off with a aeromotive or venom fpr then a -6 to the factory return to the tank... We both used precision 1000cc injectors. The only thing extra is to take a bosh relay and run dedicated 12volts thru the relay off the altenator to directly to the walbro. the crx and civic of those years have bad voltage drop to the pump, mine read as low as 9 volts when the battery was seeing 13.5 .... Jason

 

yea and you can run a little thicker gauge wire also..i left mine alone

I forgot you had a crx fuel feed line

 

That's probably the setup I'll end up going with. I'm gonna get the Edelbrock fuel rail and I was going to mount my Aeromotive 13109 FPR on the passenger side of the fuel rail and fuel feed on the driver side. I'm still looking at the different injectors to see if one particular brand name is better then another even though they have the same injector core. So I'm still undecided on whether I want to switch brand names or if I should just stick with RC's.

I also want to run a dedicated line from the pump to the battery, but wiring is not one of my strong points. I have seen diagrams floating around of how to setup the relays and wiring, but I cant find the thread I saw this in. I also wanted to hook up a voltmeter like a Nordskog digital gauge so that I can monitor the voltage going into my fuel pump.

 

I havent rewired a pump but i believe you run a wire off the top of the alternator..not off the battery... someone whos done this chime in

 

I should probably mention that my battery has been relocated to the trunk. Not sure if that makes a difference or not in how I would rewire it.

 

i have mine wired up like you want to do.. having your battery in the hatch makes it easy.. all we did was run one wire from the + on the battery to the relay. then you will need to run out of the relay to the + wire for your pump. (think it the black with yellow stripe) not to sure on that tho. then you will need a switched 12v to trigger your relay (my AEM ems dose this). i may have missed something in there.

 

bump for more help on the wiring

Here is a diagram on Aeromotive's homepage on upgraded wiring. But I'm not sure how I would go about wiring up my CRX with something similar. I think I may have read that the stock fuel pump relay or switch or whatever would need to be wired up to the pump so that the pump can still be primed up. Do stock CRX's have their fuel wiring set up differently from newer Hondas? or are they all the same.

Can somebody draw up a quick diagram in MS pain and save it as a jpeg and e-mail it to me or host it up? For now all I have to go off of is the instructions on the Aeromotive homepage, but I'm not sure how I would set mine up.

http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/u...1.pdf

EDIT: I think I can leave my stock wiring in place so that the stock relay will trigger the pump. Then I just add the relay and breaker like in the instructions. I can use a relay like the one in the link.

-splice relay87 into the pump + wire, use a 3 way wire tap so the stock wiring leading away from the pump is still intact
-relay86 goes to a chassis ground
-relay30 goes to a 30A breaker and then to the battery + terminal
-but the relay85 is what I'm unsure of

TIA

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D@nnY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


my wiring is stock .....

the bottom fitting on the fuel filter isnt a banjo its like a normal compresion type self sealing fitting.....

get rid of the banjo on the top with a fitting and run a -6 or -8 feed to the rail and runa bigger fuel rail stock regulator and return line will be fine

I have an oem filter as well but jsut buy a new one </TD></TR></TABLE>

I have a question about this..isn't there the same style of fitting connecting the fuel supply line at the tank as the fitting (s) connecting the line to the filter and to the rail from the filter? If that is true, what would be the point of changing the line and style of connection between the rail and filter, without changing the other connection(s)?

Also, at what hp level is a larger internal diameter needed in the fuel rail? I would think that if you can run a stock (well, drilled to keep your fuel press down at idle with the larger pump) fpr, you can run a stock rail too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rorik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what would be the point of changing the line and style of connection between the rail and filter, without changing the other connection(s)?

Also, at what hp level is a larger internal diameter needed in the fuel rail? I would think that if you can run a stock (well, drilled to keep your fuel press down at idle with the larger pump) fpr, you can run a stock rail too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

For the fittings, just from looking at it at 120 swivel fitting flows more then a banjo type fitting. Changing the lines from the filter to the fuel pump feed is a lot more expensive. SS braided lines and fittings is probably the most reliable fitting type for the filter to rail.

I wouldn't even think about about using a drilled FPR on my built and sleeved motor. An aftermarket FPR is only $100-$180, so why risk my $7000 built motor on a part that costs less then $200 to upgrade? Also the stock rail is the away to go since it can support quite a bit of power. But I mistakently bought a remote mounted FPR instead of an FPR that has OEM style mounts.