I am too tight on cash to pay the 400 it will cost to have it replaced.
Does anyone have tips, comments or caveats in replacing the t-belt on a d15b in a 91CRX?
I wont be pulling the engine.
any uncommon tools to work in the cramped area?


BTW
I do have the complete Factory manuals, so documentation is not the issue.
I just want words of experience


Modified by aal at 9:38 PM 12/20/2005


Modified by aal at 9:39 PM 12/20/2005

 

buy a manual and do it your self... just keep the timing correct and shazam!

 

best tool is the manual.....btw how do you like the the d15b in your crx?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92civeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">best tool is the manual.....btw how do you like the the d15b in your crx?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It is JDM D15B (hence the lack of #'s at the end)
I love it
Dropped in with no mods, just swapped dizzy,and mani's from my old usdmD15B2
I get 55+mpg hwy
and I still keep up with a stock 91Si

It aint you father's CRX

 

here... except its for a d16z6 but it should be pretty much the same. it includes pics

http://faq.ef-honda.com/index....ng=en

 

for the most part the timing belt replacment is easy. just support the motor, while you disconect the driver side motor mount. sometimes the crank pulley is pretty hard to get off, you might have to use an impact or some good leverage.
thats pretty much the only tricks.
mike

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AJxr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here... except its for a d16z6 but it should be pretty much the same. it includes pics

http://faq.ef-honda.com/index....ng=en </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the link
Fortunately I invested in an impact wrench

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89efhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> sometimes the crank pulley is pretty hard to get off, </TD></TR></TABLE>
thats the only hard part. sometimes even an impact wont take it off. ive broken sockets and extensions trying to get mine off finally the head of the bolt broke off. there are alot of stories about that on here.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by e jay one &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats the only hard part. sometimes even an impact wont take it off. ive broken sockets and extensions trying to get mine off finally the head of the bolt broke off. there are alot of stories about that on here.</TD></TR></TABLE>


EWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW

I have my old engine still so I will disassemble it 1st
already have pulley off it(ac pulley is chiped in car so I will swap)

I will dissasemble it for practice

Thanks for all the great feedback

 

pay attention to the markings that you line up the cam to. they are different for the d15b to the z6 to the b7.

 

thanks
I will


do u mean the JDM D15B would be different than the USDM D15B2?

 

if i remember correctly, the b2 lines up flat with the head? the d15b uses the third mark on the cam that points down and lines up with a pointer on the plastic piece that's behind the cam gear.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr. carpenter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if i remember correctly, the b2 lines up flat with the head? the d15b uses the third mark on the cam that points down and lines up with a pointer on the plastic piece that's behind the cam gear. </TD></TR></TABLE>

According to my USDM manual the B2(DX) and the B8(HF) have no down mark on the cam gear.

the Si has a down mark though.

Is that what you are thinking about?
or is there a different cam gear on the JDM (I will know when I take it apart for sure )

 

you said d15b right. i'm talking about the jdm d15b.

 

I have a USDM manual that talks about the D16B2 (of course)

I have a JDM D16B in the car

explain differences please

 

WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEELLLLLL

the pulley bolt wont come off with the impact wrench


I have no 36" breaker bar

what do you guys suggest?

 

what i ended up doing was having a shop spin it off with their monster impact wrenches. have them spin it back on, maybe at like 100 lbs ft and when you get home your impact should take it off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rasta420 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what i ended up doing was having a shop spin it off with their monster impact wrenches. have them spin it back on, maybe at like 100 lbs ft and when you get home your impact should take it off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have no one around (cause of holidays) that can pull me to a shop

paying $120 to have it towed there and back plus the parts defeats the whole purpose of me doing it myself.

I will keep working on it, I am soaking it with Deep Creep and will try again after this cappucino

 

Still Soaking
Not out yet
I may have to bite the bullet and spend 450 to do a job that I could do for 150!!!!!!!

 

GIVEN UP

I have been SCREWED, by my bolt

gonna call the tow truck tomorrow

 

is the car driveable? if you already started and the engine runs, it may be cheaper to put everything back together real quick, minus the timing cover, and then drive it to the shop.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">GIVEN UP

I have been SCREWED, by my bolt

gonna call the tow truck tomorrow </TD></TR></TABLE>
dont give up until your knuckles are bleeding. get a big peice of pipe for leverage.