ok.. there is way too much talk about how LS/VTEC's are and arent reliable.

People!! please tell me the best way to build these bottom ends so that they last!!!

Talk about oil squirters in the VTEC bottom and and not in the non-vtec bottom ends.. and OEM honda pistons not working good because there are no oil jets or something like that and that forged pistons are better because they have better oil flow. CLEAR THIS UP!!

People, lets clear this up.

Post what you did, and what parts you used, and how many miles are on it and any problems. And driving style. Lets be honest here and find out what works, and why.

 

LS/VTECs are only as good as the builder. Many people have different opinions on the right way to do them. Last winter, I put together a mild set-up using mostly OEM parts and it is running pretty strong. You need to search, this topic has been covered numerous times already. Good luck

 

if its a ls/vtec, b18c, b16a, b17, whatever... rebuilding the engine has to do with the specs that the builder follows. yes the b18b block has no oil squirters. big deal. that is VERY misicule compared to bearing clearances.

clearances, (bearing and ring) and tuning. thats all that needs to be focused on.

 

Yes clearances are the biggest thing to worry about.

As far as the oil squirter issue goes. Forged internals will dissipate heat better than cast, which is why you are hearing that forged would be better for that application. (oil squirters are for cooling, not lubrication.)

Ls/vtec with forged internals put together with the right specs and ur golden.

 

what if i just use the P30 or Nippon P30 pistons? will they work just as good?

 

I got my bottom end built with all oem parts and its been running strong for a year. just make sure the clearances are tight and you use arp rod bolts

 

I got my bottom end built with all oem parts and its been running strong for a year. just make sure the clearances are tight and you use arp rod bolts

 

yes chances are your local honda dealer is using topline and nippon pistons anyways if they do a rebuild.

 

check my sig

 

that sould great.. please keep my posted on your build and the dyno numbers.

why did u do ITR pistons instead of P30? doesnt the P30 offer you more compression?

 

i choose p73 pistons instead of p30 becuz of my milled gsr head.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all slam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i choose p73 pistons instead of p30 becuz of my milled gsr head.</TD></TR></TABLE>

got ya

 

I haven't dynoed my setup but in a DA chassis, it's pretty quick as is...

B18A block .25 ITR pistons
fully balanced and blueprinted - micropolished crank
GSR Rod bearings
Factory rods/bolts
Milled B16A head 30 thousandths
Full Crower valvetrain/GSR cams (currently)
3 angle valve job
ITR Intake manifold w/port matched tb
DC 4-2-1
Straight pipe 3/4 length exiting a glasspack silencer
B16 tranny w/ACT 6puck HDPP 12lb flywheel
Crane Hi 6 w/PS92 coil
B&M FPR set at 50psi idle
Stock 240cc injectors
P28 w/Vision chip

11,000 miles of pretty much just high revving because it's my weekend warrior. Still so smooth And like they said above with the clearances and blueprinting.

 

my ls/vtec made 550+whp and 400+wtq and was my daily driver for over 2 years.

 

gsr block with ls rods and jdm itr pistons
best of both worlds lol
never gaive me any problems

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Oldskool teggy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes chances are your local honda dealer is using topline and nippon pistons anyways if they do a rebuild. </TD></TR></TABLE>

are you effing kidding me?

 

I would go for this setup:
gsr block w/ ls crank
p30 b16 pistons
arp rod bolts
new bearings

My old street motor: (186whp/132tq) 25k miles w/o any problems
JDM ITR head (complete)
ITR cams/TB/manifold
stock ls block
cam gears
CAI
DC 4-2-1 header
VAFC/P28 w/ 2 programs
GSR tranny

 

Best way!! LS crank and rods in a GSR block.

 

As for reliability I would go with the cast OEM pistons. Why? because you can run clearences that are alot tighter. So you will have little piston slap, less noise, and will require less heat to expand the piston to its operating size. As for the oil squirters, don't worry, HELL we even plug them up in our race/ stroker combos.
Your main concern should be in bearing clearences, ring gaps, piston to wall clearence and machiening quality.

 

sounds really good guys.. cant wait to get back to my car and start the shopping process.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AMS MIKE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my ls/vtec made 550+whp and 400+wtq and was my daily driver for over 2 years.</TD></TR></TABLE>

please, would like to know more on this setup.

 

im pretty sure thats a turbo set up hahaha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92integraVTECgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">please, would like to know more on this setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>

here it is. when i sold it! I edeited out most of it because its useless to this thread....

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AMS MIKE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


VIDEO....EVERYONE LOVES A VIDEOE....

Me VS. Supra TT @ Carlsbad Raceway

(Right click and choose Save Taget as)

http://www.we-todd-did-racing....DE%3D

Me VS. a Viper @ Carlsbad Raceway

(Right click and choose Save Taget as)

http://www.inaux.com/brucek2/MikevViper.mov

1994 LS Block 2.0L
-Bored 84mm with Benson sleeves
-Forged Eagle Rods
-J.E. 9:1 pistons 84mm with total seal rings
-Micropolished and balanced crank
-all new bearings and every single gasket has been changed
-All oil fittings are brand new with all steel braided lines

1999 civic si Head
-Port Flow...Port and Polish, 3 angle valve job
-Ferrea .5mil over valves
-Manley Titanium valvesprings and retainers
-CTR cams
-AEM Cam Gears (set to stock timing)
-real SPOON valvecover

Turbo
-Full-Race original manifold
-3" Full-Race original downpipe (with egt inside)
-Garrett Dual Ball Bearing GT3040R
-40mm TIAL wastegate with .8bar spring (open dump tube to bottom of the car)
-Spearco custom Intercooler 24" Long x 8" tall x 3.5" thick (charge pipe side=2.75" and turbo side= 2.5")
-All aluminum intercooler piping custom made with HKS SSQ BOV

Transmission
-GSR tranny (Absolutely NO grinds!)
-Brand new Quaiffe LSD (installed by my buddy Steve AKA Omniman)
-Driveshaft Shop Stage 5 axles with hubs and brand new wheel bearings (good for to 600HP)
-ARP extended wheel studs
-Skunk 2 short shifter

Suspension
Front- KYB AGX Shocks with coilovers and 600LB Eibach springs
Rear- Oil filled shocks with 1,000lb Eibach springs
Also have the stock suspension!




</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Propaganda to the all motor community.

anywho. to the guy who had the ls/vtec that made 186whp with the stock LS block and ITR head, at what rpm did you make the max power at? seems like a strong setup, i never knew ls/itr combo like that made anything over 180whp.

 

With OEM pistons you can run looser ring end gaps because the piston covers up most of the gap. Just play with the P-W clearance. Temps will be fine without the oil squirters, less weight on the rotating assembly anyways.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo9Nut &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Best way!! LS crank and rods in a GSR block. </TD></TR></TABLE>
you'd lose power over an LS block then