compression with skunk2 stage 2 cams question.......
ok, heres the deal, i got a b18c5 bottom end and a b16 head that i'm building right now, but i'm thinkin bout just keeping the bottom and stock except for new rings and bearings and getting it hot tanked(reliability purposes). anyways, i got a deal on some skunk2 stage 2 cams, but i was wondering if ITR pistons are sufficent enough to run with these cams. i keep hearing about not making enough power because of compression, so i'm wondering how the ITRs are going to hold up. someone told me to upgrade to some CTR pistons instead. and yes i already have full crower valve train and yes i'm getting the head ported + i'm planning on running a edelbrock manifold. the car is going to be used for daily driving.
according to zeal autoworks calc, ur compression should be @ 11.32 with an oem gasket. with CTR pistons in there ur cr is 12.74 with oem gasket as well. i think skunk 2 recommends a compression of 11.5 or better to get the best results out of their stage 2 cams.
flat faced valves, thin head gasket and mill a little off the head will bump your compression up. but it may not be enough for those cams.
your best bet would be get a forged pistons 12:1 compression those cams will shine.
your best bet would be get a forged pistons 12:1 compression those cams will shine.
You don't need compression to run big cams, it just helps make more power. I used to run Skunk Stage 2's, now Blox Type B's cause they were cheaper, on my competely stock B18C1. Made 180/130, tuned on Hondata. As long as you get your setup tuned, you will not be dissapointed
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by paopao »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You don't need compression to run big cams, it just helps make more power. </TD></TR></TABLE>
People need to realize this. Many seem to think you NEED xx compression to run cams. More important is to have them in a healthy motor with the correct <U>flow</U> to use the cam effectively
People need to realize this. Many seem to think you NEED xx compression to run cams. More important is to have them in a healthy motor with the correct <U>flow</U> to use the cam effectively
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People need to realize this. Many seem to think you NEED xx compression to run cams. More important is to have them in a healthy motor with the correct <U>flow</U> to use the cam effectively
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Runnerdown »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
People need to realize this. Many seem to think you NEED xx compression to run cams. More important is to have them in a healthy motor with the correct <U>flow</U> to use the cam effectively
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have to agree with you, however i would still recommend getting some sort of metal headgasket to raise the compression. Mugen and spoon make nice ones. 11.6 compression wouldnt hurt
People need to realize this. Many seem to think you NEED xx compression to run cams. More important is to have them in a healthy motor with the correct <U>flow</U> to use the cam effectively
</TD></TR></TABLE>I have to agree with you, however i would still recommend getting some sort of metal headgasket to raise the compression. Mugen and spoon make nice ones. 11.6 compression wouldnt hurt
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmdelsolb16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have to agree with you, however i would still recommend getting some sort of metal headgasket to raise the compression. Mugen and spoon make nice ones. 11.6 compression wouldnt hurt</TD></TR></TABLE>
Headgasket is a good idea, but spoon and mugen are nothing special. just drop a layer or two off the oem one. Tried and true.
I have to agree with you, however i would still recommend getting some sort of metal headgasket to raise the compression. Mugen and spoon make nice ones. 11.6 compression wouldnt hurt</TD></TR></TABLE>
Headgasket is a good idea, but spoon and mugen are nothing special. just drop a layer or two off the oem one. Tried and true.
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