i've just adjusted my engine valves... followed everything in the sticky and my car feels weird now. warming up is louder, idling is louder.... not the ticking noise... just from the engine in general. i have no idea what is wrong.

 

What did you set the lash to? Recheck it all again?

Engine? Miles?

 

jdm d15b
miles unknown
feeler gauge from craftsman

 

I had a HUGE problem with my craftsman feelers
they were marked metric, but were actually standard.....
double check that you used the correct gauge

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had a HUGE problem with my craftsman feelers
they were marked metric, but were actually standard.....
double check that you used the correct gauge</TD></TR></TABLE>

they're label with both inches and millimeter. i used .007 inches for intake and .009 for exhaust.

 

you did it wrong

 

did you rotate crank during process to make sure the lobes werent on retainer

 

nice response to the thread, care to say why he did it wrong?

 

Sound like you got them too tight. If thats the case your going to burn a valve. Check them again and although it is best to get them right, it is better to ere on the loose side than get them tight.

 

Yeah you can do it with out a filler, and guys dont flame me for this one, but i used .007 on intake .009 on exhaust, did not like it still heard slaping. so i did it by just feeling how much play they had. just a tad of play on all them so there not tight. started it up ran like a champ. dont hate on my methods.

Curt

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by amckee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sound like you got them too tight. If thats the case your going to burn a valve. Check them again and although it is best to get them right, it is better to ere on the loose side than get them tight. </TD></TR></TABLE>

last time i rechecked them, they had a sufficient amount of play between.

 

if you have to pay a shop 50-60 bucks to do it and know it was done right.

Curt

 

Are you absolutely sure that you started at TDC #1 compression and not TDC #1 exhaust?

 

Yeah… I lined the thing up with the single (alone) line on the crank pulley and I started from there. # 1 should be at TDC and I adjusted the valves on both the intake and exhaust for #1. I also adjusted the valves on #3 (exhaust only) and #2 (intake only).

Than I gave it a 360 degree turn back to the single line and did #4 both intake and exhaust, #3 intake and #2 exhaust.

 

uhhhh. you adjust them according to firing order...which goes.
1-3-4-2

You dont turn the crank 360....

you turn the crank counterclockwise 90 deg at a time.

 

I will have to say I've never done the valves on a civic. An accord is also done 1-3-4-2 90 degrees at a time and lined up with the middle of the triple mark on the crank. It has a single mark at 180 degrees.

 

A "slight drag" is more like you can barely get the gauge in and out. At least for me thats how it worked out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A "slight drag" is more like you can barely get the gauge in and out. At least for me thats how it worked out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

that's what i'm thinking... i stick the sucker in there at .007 and .009 and the term slight drag means? i can run it through the space pretty easily and i a sandpaper feeling is slight drag?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by idriveadelsol7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that's what i'm thinking... i stick the sucker in there at .007 and .009 and the term slight drag means? i can run it through the space pretty easily and i a sandpaper feeling is slight drag?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Another nice way is to take the next larger size from what you are ending with, and make sure it CANNOT fit into the opening. Then aim for a rougher feeling with the correct size.

And it if i remember right, its line cam/crank pulley upto tdc, do the first one, then rotate pulley 180 (should move camgear 90degrees) and do next. Wish I had helms sitting here to be of more use.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by splitime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Another nice way is to take the next larger size from what you are ending with, and make sure it CANNOT fit into the opening. Then aim for a rougher feeling with the correct size.

And it if i remember right, its line cam/crank pulley upto tdc, do the first one, then rotate pulley 180 (should move camgear 90degrees) and do next. Wish I had helms sitting here to be of more use.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i've done it every way possible. i found the other way i've done it is more accurate because you have lines on the crank and the timing belt cover to line stuff up with. 180 4 times will not be 180 if you know what i mean. but expletive it... i give up. everytime i check the stupid vavles i don't have the same clearance and i been doing this **** since saturday. lol time to go to the stealership. i hope they actually ADJUST my **** though instead of saying it's ok. man... thanks everybody

 

When you tightened up the holding nut, you kept the flathead on the adjuster to keep it from moving, right?

But yeah, one way to check is to try the next size up feeler gauge as it shouldn't go in at all. The drag shouldn't be so tight that when you're removing the feeler gauge, it's getting scratched to hell on its way out.

You should also just do one cylinder at a time. Start on #1 then rotate the crank 180* and do #3. Another 180* and do #4. Another 180* and do #2. It might be quicker to try and do all of #1 and some of #2 and #3, but screw that.

But def make sure they aren't tight. The valve cools itself when it makes contact with the valve seat and burnt valves aren't something you want.

 

Could have sworn JDM D15B and USDM D16Z6 were .009 and .011 for intake and exhaust respectively. At least that's what I adjusted mine too (according to page 6-69 of the Helms that's the minimum threshold and .007/.009 is the maximum) and I've never had any issues.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Could have sworn JDM D15B and USDM D16Z6 were .009 and .011 for intake and exhaust respectively. At least that's what I adjusted mine too (according to page 6-69 of the Helms that's the minimum threshold and .007/.009 is the maximum) and I've never had any issues.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wouldn't .009 and .011 be the maximum? (ie: loosest?)

And .007/.009 be the minimum? (ie: tightest?)

 

d15b's lash is at .009 thousanths and make sure the valves are fully closed or on the flat part of the lobe.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by splitime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wouldn't .009 and .011 be the maximum? (ie: loosest?)

And .007/.009 be the minimum? (ie: tightest?)</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was going with .007/.009 is the maximum tightness and .009/.011 is the minimum tightness.



I guess it just depends on which context you want to use.