Thermostat question
Ok my car's heater has not been getting hot for like the last week. I have no way to tell what operating temperature its at because the temp gauge is broke. It doenst seem to be getting hot though. I figured that the thermostat was out so I went ahead and replaced it. It is still doing the same thing but I noticed when I get going on like a highway or if i rev it up high it blows some warm air out..... What's my next step? BTW- the temp gauge was like this when i bought it i just havent had any time to fix it.... Oh yeah 97 CX hatch no mods.
I've been driving without any thermostat whatsoever for the last few months, and my heater works fine... I don't know how the climate controls work, but I would check elsewhere in the engine.
ok you should try two things. first try to burp the coolant some more because maybe you still have some air pockets in the system. and if that doesnt work i would try replacing the thermostat again or making sure it is insatlled properly because oem ones need to be installed a certain way. i am a honda mechanic and that only sounds like it would be a thermostat problem.
Well I used an Oreilly's aftermarket thermostat, it looked a little different but it fit just fine..... I will flush the coolant and see if that helps.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,550
Likes: 0
From: I moved far away from cornz fieldz, IL
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR632 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I used an Oreilly's aftermarket thermostat, it looked a little different but it fit just fine..... I will flush the coolant and see if that helps. </TD></TR></TABLE> Its fine. If your thermostat was broken it would overheat, not remain cold. Even if it stayed open you will still have warm air after a bit. Is the top hose getting hot? I would first check to make sure coolant is circulating properly. Ive seen where the door for the heater core wont reopen and thus blows cold air.
no the top hose is not getting hot so I reflushed and tried again and its still not getting hot. Do I need to replace the heater core? What else can I check? The shotgun idea is getting better each day.
Modified by ITR632 at 12:03 AM 12/21/2005
Modified by ITR632 at 12:03 AM 12/21/2005
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EK-SI »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok you should try two things. first try to burp the coolant some more because maybe you still have some air pockets in the system. and if that doesnt work i would try replacing the thermostat again or making sure it is insatlled properly because oem ones need to be installed a certain way. i am a honda mechanic and that only sounds like it would be a thermostat problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>
are you sure that is the ONLY thing that could be the problem?? a bad water pump that is not circulating coolant would also cause this problem. in addition, if the heater control valve is not functioning or is partially clogged, this would also occur.
are you sure that is the ONLY thing that could be the problem?? a bad water pump that is not circulating coolant would also cause this problem. in addition, if the heater control valve is not functioning or is partially clogged, this would also occur.
Everyone seems have the debate about thermostats. well here is my thoughts and experiences with thermostats.
Mugen/Spoon thermostats. basically the same thing. both are very good thermostats. most likely one of the best ones ive had. i maintained a average of a 170 degree's with these thermostats. So mugen and spoon both get a BIG BIG
OEM honda thermostats. Very good thermostat. runs 18.84 at honda. Had mine in for 6 months and it did a very good job. maintained a temperature between 170-180 degrees. Likes to creep everynow and then but drops immediately. When it was mated with the stock radiator it began to overheat on long city runs or track waits in the stage lanes. when it was mated with my KOYO Teg radiator it overheated after about 3 hours of driving.
Old school drill trick. I was told to take a regular thermostat and drill 3 1/16th holes in it and it would allow coolant to still pass through when the thermostat is not open. this trick worked for a while but didnt last long. took the car about 5 mins to reach operating temperature at idle. when driving it would stay on the cooler side around 160-170 degrees. so if your on a cheap budget just take out the stocker and drill a couple of holes in it.
Advanced Auto/ PepBoys/ Autozone/Napa thermostats. IMO are a piece of ****. they never held a decent temperature. the car never ran cooler than 185 degree's with any of these thermostats. i would never recommend them at all. id rather drill into my stock thermostat. i try to stay away from these as much as possible.
Running no thermostat. I have been running no thermostat since i put in my koyo radiator. and i was really amazed. everyone said it would over heat really quickly.well they were wrong
. My car has yet to 170 degree's it will heat up to normal spot when idleing for about 7 minutes. But as soon as u start driving it will go straight to cool. and running cooler never really hurt anyone. 90% of drag guys do not use a thermostat. i know several v-8 guys that do not have there thermostats in that drive there car daily.
Well this is all i have to say on the topic of thermostats. I hope this helped some of you out there. and i have Tested all of the following for at least 2 weeks. and im not just yanking your chains here. this is all 100% true information.
Mugen/Spoon thermostats. basically the same thing. both are very good thermostats. most likely one of the best ones ive had. i maintained a average of a 170 degree's with these thermostats. So mugen and spoon both get a BIG BIG

OEM honda thermostats. Very good thermostat. runs 18.84 at honda. Had mine in for 6 months and it did a very good job. maintained a temperature between 170-180 degrees. Likes to creep everynow and then but drops immediately. When it was mated with the stock radiator it began to overheat on long city runs or track waits in the stage lanes. when it was mated with my KOYO Teg radiator it overheated after about 3 hours of driving.
Old school drill trick. I was told to take a regular thermostat and drill 3 1/16th holes in it and it would allow coolant to still pass through when the thermostat is not open. this trick worked for a while but didnt last long. took the car about 5 mins to reach operating temperature at idle. when driving it would stay on the cooler side around 160-170 degrees. so if your on a cheap budget just take out the stocker and drill a couple of holes in it.
Advanced Auto/ PepBoys/ Autozone/Napa thermostats. IMO are a piece of ****. they never held a decent temperature. the car never ran cooler than 185 degree's with any of these thermostats. i would never recommend them at all. id rather drill into my stock thermostat. i try to stay away from these as much as possible.

Running no thermostat. I have been running no thermostat since i put in my koyo radiator. and i was really amazed. everyone said it would over heat really quickly.well they were wrong
. My car has yet to 170 degree's it will heat up to normal spot when idleing for about 7 minutes. But as soon as u start driving it will go straight to cool. and running cooler never really hurt anyone. 90% of drag guys do not use a thermostat. i know several v-8 guys that do not have there thermostats in that drive there car daily.Well this is all i have to say on the topic of thermostats. I hope this helped some of you out there. and i have Tested all of the following for at least 2 weeks. and im not just yanking your chains here. this is all 100% true information.
I've run OE honda thermostats on every motor I've ever owned. I have also run a stock Civic radiator from an automatic trans civic on a B18B, a B16B, and my new 12.5 CR 2.0 B series. I stay at 120 degrees coolant temp unless I have sustainged WOT. THen it jumps to around 150, which is still A OK. I don't buy into all the hype about crazy cooling system mods unless you are doing serious racing or boost.
I am praying to god it is not the heater core. It does not smell like coolant inside at all. How do I check the heater control valve? thanks, too bad it is so cold here or I wouldnt even give a ****. I need a new gauge cluster so I can see what the damn temp is, anyone got one for sale?
Check your thermostat.
Run the car for about 20 mins.. then do the hose test..
if the bottom hose is Cold then u got a bad thermostat.
If its hot then you might have a waterpump/heatercore issue
Run the car for about 20 mins.. then do the hose test..
if the bottom hose is Cold then u got a bad thermostat.
If its hot then you might have a waterpump/heatercore issue
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlyfestyle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Umm OEM Honda thermostats should keep you between 170-185 degree's how are u gettin 120 degree's?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I dunno man. I've got an autometer temp gauge and sending unit....that is the real time temp of the coolant in my car.
I dunno man. I've got an autometer temp gauge and sending unit....that is the real time temp of the coolant in my car.
the only reason i have my koyo is because it is shiny and has the 32mm fitting. all my swaps have used standard radiators until this one. i don't know why so many peoples cars overheat... a honda shouldn't overheat unless you have something hindering coolant flow... i.e. block filled...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by littleredcivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the only reason i have my koyo is because it is shiny and has the 32mm fitting. all my swaps have used standard radiators until this one. i don't know why so many peoples cars overheat... a honda shouldn't overheat unless you have something hindering coolant flow... i.e. block filled...</TD></TR></TABLE>
What about heat soaking from a turbo?
What about heat soaking from a turbo?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHCD16y8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What about heat soaking from a turbo?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is why Coatings and Heatshields are made for
What about heat soaking from a turbo?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is why Coatings and Heatshields are made for
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHCD16y8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What about heat soaking from a turbo?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
possible, but is it likely that heat soak would cause the system to overheat?? i ran my car at full throttle (100+ mph) for a good 5 miles in 100+ degree weather while climbing hills with my a/c on and still had no problems with my stock vx radiator. i have an ls swap with no heat shield on my comptech header
What about heat soaking from a turbo?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
possible, but is it likely that heat soak would cause the system to overheat?? i ran my car at full throttle (100+ mph) for a good 5 miles in 100+ degree weather while climbing hills with my a/c on and still had no problems with my stock vx radiator. i have an ls swap with no heat shield on my comptech header
well i have decided its the water pump since i took the hose off the head started the car and nothing came out.... I am fixing it friday, so hopefully that is the damn problem! This car has been great until this little event.....
this is actually quite common. when you have spuratic heater operation, unstable coolant temperatures, excessive coolant in the reserve bottle... it points to a water pump failure.




