I have a bunch of parts lying around my garage from a failed B20VTEC build. I'm going to pick up another B20 block and use my JE 11.5:1 pistons (84.5mm) and Crower rods in it. Now the question is, do I build a non-VTEC head, port it out and get something like the crower 404's in it or do I buy a VTEC head and build that up? I'm trying to find an EG hatch or a DA that I'm to build in to a track car, so streetability isn't too much of a concern.

Let me hear what you guys think as well as any cam recomendations for the build.

 

what are your goals? What type of racing will this be used for?

 

I want a broad powerband, and I'll be using the car for auto-cross. I'm also looking to break 200WHP....it's it bit of a challenge at my elevation. I'm also hoping that I don't break the bank. My thoughts were that since I already have the B20 head, that I'd just clean it up and use it with an upgraded valvetrain for now.
I think I'll eventually put a B16 head on it, but they're pricey and so are the cams. I'll budget for them if needed, but that's easily another $1,500 that I need to come up with.

I guess what I want to know is what kind of luck people are having with LS heads, what cams they're using....basically the entire setup.

 

VTEC

 

Vee-Tack.

 

I appreciate the feedback, but do you two care to elaborate on your comments? If I'm porting out a PR4 head, and using a good set of cams, you guys still think the VTEC head is the way to go?

I don't want to waste the money and time on the LS head if it's not worth the trouble but at the same time, I don't want to spend all the cash on a B16 head. There has to be someone on here running the LS head and making some good numbers.

 

if staying all motor vtec is the way to go. no questions asked, will make more power with unported vtec head oem cams than the ported non vtec head with cams. if u were going fI, than the non vtec head wouldn't be as bad. you will have plenty of torque with that b20.

 

I guess that settles it....VEETACK it is! Now I just need to find another head. I sold a mint, rebuilt B16 head a couple of months ago. Now I'm kicking myself for it.

Thanks for all of the replies.

 

Non-VTEC! VTEC was designed for streetability and emissions reasons. If you're building a track car most your time will be spent in the upper RPMs. You will have no need for the primaries on a VTEC cam. Port out a non-VTEC head and throw in a nasty set of cams! It's more cost effective, weighs less, and doesn't give you extra items a track car will never use.

 

VTEC

 

To quote one of my friend, "Once I hit 'vtak' , it's over!"

 

no VTEC. on a VTEC head.

 

watch the video in my signature then decide, why not?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMH22ACRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Non-VTEC! VTEC was designed for streetability and emissions reasons. If you're building a track car most your time will be spent in the upper RPMs. You will have no need for the primaries on a VTEC cam. Port out a non-VTEC head and throw in a nasty set of cams! It's more cost effective, weighs less, and doesn't give you extra items a track car will never use.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you serious???

Facts:

-Ball type vs hinged rocker arms. No matter what application, at upper RPM's, ball joints can come loose and can fall out, that won't happen with the superior hinged rockers on the VTEC heads

-Port out the nonvtec head all you want, you'll be lucky if it out flows a VTEC head in STOCK TRIM. Many factors influence this, primarily intake valve diameter is 2mm larger in all VTEC heads, valve stem (and consequently valve guide) diameter is much smaller which also helps flow. Start factoring in better port designs, and decision is simple.

-Cam selection is wayyy more abundant, and you can bank on 100x R&D put into VTEC cams than their counterpart. Wanna stick with stock cams? You can easily make 200whp with a 2.0L VTEC setup with FACTORY cams. Stock cams = stock rocker/cam compatibility + stock valve springs, retainers etc = RELIABILITY you just can't have with any other setup.

-Oh, and can someone say stock idle? Hmmm. Lumpy idles are cool for like 2 weeks.

Unless you are trying to prove a point (and have deep pockets), there is only EVERY ADVANTAGE possible going for VTEC.... Please non-VTEC guys, don't misinform. I've been there, done that, and can attest that I was mis-informed and would have never spent a dime on a nonvtec setup if anyone at the time properly highlited the above differences which are crucial to building a good reliable street motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtakvtrak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">watch the video in my signature then decide, why not?</TD></TR></TABLE>

that video was sick i got to get one of those under my hood noone would have a chance!!

 

Freakin go see Shoaib and see if he has a P8R Head. If not go V-attack.