Squeeking Brakes
Well I have a 97 EX Coupe with a D16y8 dont know if it matters and Im not sure if the last owner did this because my brakes are squeeling pretty bad even for small slowing down to complete stops. When I was working on my exhaust I found that it looked like the brakes had been painted or something because it was peeling. My question is should I just unrust the brakes with some WD40 and is it difficult to take them off? I believe they are drums. I dont think my Civic came with ABS someone correct me if Im wrong. Here are some pics of what it looks like. For one thing is I mechanically sound but not a pro. I have done most of the stuff on my car, not sure if taking brakes off is hard. Should I right now just unrust them and save and get a brake conversion or a Brembo Kit?
P.S while I am at it the car came with the suspension of some OBX Coilovers and im looking when I had the car jacked it is actually loose like I can move the spring/coil up and down. Also I believe they are on the lowest setting because my car scrapes just on the slightest hump.




P.S while I am at it the car came with the suspension of some OBX Coilovers and im looking when I had the car jacked it is actually loose like I can move the spring/coil up and down. Also I believe they are on the lowest setting because my car scrapes just on the slightest hump.




There are "Shoes" inside the drum. Pull that thing off. Look at the pads, make sure they're not ultra thin. You could also have the drums turned at a shop or autozone or something. Are you sure they are the rears that are squeeking? Pull off the front wheels too, look at your rotors and pads. Alot of times, squeeking is just due to dust, Get yourself a can of brakeclean and hose it all down, nice and clean.
technically there called shoes...but that doesn't really matter. To see the amount of pad you have left you have to take off the drum. which is what your pictures show. You might need to hit it with a hammer, at least i did with mine to get it off. Once off you will see two brake shoes, springs and a wheel cylinder. as long as the pad thickness is bigger than the metal peice that holds it your fine
1995EX_Sedan you beat me to it
1995EX_Sedan you beat me to it
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StreetRacinThug »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Theres pads on the rear? I thought "drums" didnt have pads. Sorry for my brake ignorance.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
He obviously meant shoes. Check to see how much material is left on the shoes.
The drums themselves are cast iron and come painted black like that from the factory. Rust on the outside is common and is not a problem. To remove the drum and check the internals, make sure your e-brake is off and then smack the drum hard on its face with a hammer until it breaks loose. Be careful not to smack any of the wheel studs and damage them in the process.
By the way, your wheel studs are looking pretty crappy - I suggest wiping them off and dabbing them with a little bit of anti-seize compound before reinstalling the lug nuts.
The loose springs at full droop are not a problem; this is common with short-length adjustable coilover springs. The springs are not loose when the car is at its normal ride height. I'd suggest raising the height of the perch though, that is way too low.
Clean off the threads on the coilover sleeve and use spanner wrenches to turn the perch rings. If they have been on there a long time through a lot of road salt and crap, they may be seized in place.
</TD></TR></TABLE>He obviously meant shoes. Check to see how much material is left on the shoes.
The drums themselves are cast iron and come painted black like that from the factory. Rust on the outside is common and is not a problem. To remove the drum and check the internals, make sure your e-brake is off and then smack the drum hard on its face with a hammer until it breaks loose. Be careful not to smack any of the wheel studs and damage them in the process.
By the way, your wheel studs are looking pretty crappy - I suggest wiping them off and dabbing them with a little bit of anti-seize compound before reinstalling the lug nuts.
The loose springs at full droop are not a problem; this is common with short-length adjustable coilover springs. The springs are not loose when the car is at its normal ride height. I'd suggest raising the height of the perch though, that is way too low.
Clean off the threads on the coilover sleeve and use spanner wrenches to turn the perch rings. If they have been on there a long time through a lot of road salt and crap, they may be seized in place.
Sorry for DP but is the the face of the drum the golden looking thing? Right in the middle??? Its like shinny...can be seen in the pics above. As for the spanner wrench I dont have one...its on the way...ordered one last week so the car should be lifted by the end of the week.
Modified by StreetRacinThug at 10:21 AM 12/18/2005
Modified by StreetRacinThug at 10:21 AM 12/18/2005
Anyone? I cannot take the drums OFF!! LOL
, well I have bought the Brakekleen stuff so I think Im just going to spray the brakes and stuff. Also the brakes look diffrent or the one of the driver side lol. I tried spinning them just to see and theres a problem, the one on the driver side struggles while the one on the passenger its very smooth.
, well I have bought the Brakekleen stuff so I think Im just going to spray the brakes and stuff. Also the brakes look diffrent or the one of the driver side lol. I tried spinning them just to see and theres a problem, the one on the driver side struggles while the one on the passenger its very smooth.
No, don't hit the gold piece in the middle. Try hitting it in between two of the studs, on the white-ish ring. Hit it hard, but be careful not to hit the studs themselves. You'll see when the drum breaks loose.
alright gonna hit it hard. Okay im def not progressing with this...is there something I havent done?, Lifted car, car is sitting in firts gear, no ebrake, took off rims, now im pounding between wheel studs and nothing. I see alot of dust from in between the brakes...
well im figuiring im just going to spray cause i have to be at work in 30 minutes and i need to get ready. Thanks for the help guys maybe ill try another time.
Don't give up on it. If you haven't checked them in awhile, its probably just really stuck. It WILL come off. Use some WD40 if it appears rusted shut, get yourself a rubber mallet, or hammer and just beat on it. IF you can beat on it from the inside out, to pop it off.
Don't hit the shiny things, thats where the bearings and everything are. That'll stay there.
Don't hit the shiny things, thats where the bearings and everything are. That'll stay there.
Get two bolts, I forget the thread, I want to say 8x1 or 8x1.25 (I forget), but usually they have a 13mm head. Thread them into the two holes in the drum. Use a ratchet or 3/8" impact gun to drive them in, as they go in they'll pull the drum loose. That's what they're there for, an alternative to whacking it with a hammer (although the hammer is generally the preferred method).
Also, I hope you're hitting this with a heavy hammer, like a dead-blow or a small sledge, because hitting it with a 12 or 16-oz claw hammer ain't gonna do squat. Also, spraying Brakleen on the outside of the drum is just a waste of brakleen, will do a whole lot of nothing.
Also, I hope you're hitting this with a heavy hammer, like a dead-blow or a small sledge, because hitting it with a 12 or 16-oz claw hammer ain't gonna do squat. Also, spraying Brakleen on the outside of the drum is just a waste of brakleen, will do a whole lot of nothing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by anony95ex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get two bolts, I forget the thread, I want to say 8x1 or 8x1.25 (I forget), but usually they have a 13mm head.
Thread them into the two holes in the drum. Use a ratchet or 3/8" impact gun to drive them in, as they go in they'll pull the drum loose. That's what they're there for.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Duh. I forgot about that. Just never had to do it.
Thread them into the two holes in the drum. Use a ratchet or 3/8" impact gun to drive them in, as they go in they'll pull the drum loose. That's what they're there for.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Duh. I forgot about that. Just never had to do it.
LOL I was using a regular hammer, and as for anything I did use the brake clean in the back and in the front and the squeeqing has left, braking feels just about the same...not too bad but the squeeking has left. As for pads and everything else thanks everyone maybe this Friday on my day off I will make it as a project to get those things off. As for the spare tire thingy, I dont have one, car didnt come with one. Thanks guys you'll probably see this thread up by the end of the week.
Hope you can get it figured off. The squeeking was probably just some dust. It happens.
Just a side note. Get yourself a full size spare and the tools to change a tire, if you don't have them. You'll be thankful you did.
Just a side note. Get yourself a full size spare and the tools to change a tire, if you don't have them. You'll be thankful you did.
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