I bought the ITR black header, so there bitches. thanks for the help.

http://streetimports.com/produ...d=410

Curtis


Modified by CleanGreen at 6:33 AM 12/20/2005


Modified by CleanGreen at 1:39 PM 12/27/2005

 

bump help whats a good header for 150 less

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CleanGreen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bump help whats a good header for 150 less</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's the biggest oxymoron I've ever read. $150? Are you ******* shitting me?

A.) cheap headers don't do **** for power production, so don't waste money on them.

B.) a header that will make a difference in power production on your engine will cost $400+.

C.) you can do things right or you can do them twice.

Get an ANR or a Hytech or SMSP. I can tell that you don't do any kind of class-specific racing, so basically you're upgrading your header simply because you think it will make a big performance difference.

Well it won't. Keep it stock, save some money and rethink your upgrade strategy so you stop wasting money on useless ****.

 

hey expletive you, i just want something to look better than stock cast ya ming

Curt

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CleanGreen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey expletive you, i just want something to look better than stock cast ya ming

Curt</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you're just going for looks then get whatever is cheapest. What a ******* idiot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you're just going for looks then get whatever is cheapest. What a ******* idiot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no not an idiot...something far worse...a ricer

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2k.civic.si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no not an idiot...something far worse...a ricer</TD></TR></TABLE>

Killshot

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That's the biggest oxymoron I've ever read. $150? Are you ******* shitting me?

A.) cheap headers don't do **** for power production, so don't waste money on them.

B.) a header that will make a difference in power production on your engine will cost $400+.

C.) you can do things right or you can do them twice.</TD></TR></TABLE>


you can buy a decent header for a good price, use Megan Racing for example with their 4-1 header that has been dyno'd here on h-t by many memebers and it does show gains over the stock header. There are headers out there that do cost under 400...some **** yes but there are certain brands that do actually help the budget builder.


To the thread starter:

check out meganracing.com website as they do have a decent header setup for you

 

Im not a ricer, no body kits, just want it took look decent till i buy a turbo kit which will be summer
See just dont look good with that nasty header on there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CleanGreen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im not a ricer, no body kits, just want it took look decent till i buy a turbo kit which will be summer
See just dont look good with that nasty header on there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So don't pop your hood for anyone until you get your turbo kit...

 

im not goin to be a ***, when people ask whats under your hood, I could care less what they think its for myself, i cant stand the stock header never got around to swaping it out,

I just want yalls opinion do you thinkg the ITR black header would look good. or not.

Curt

 

Just get a Heatsheild and BBQ black spray paint,dont waste money on somethin u allready know ur gonna get rid of later.

 

aftermarket header &gt; stock header

yes, it will make more hp. it may not be a lot, but thats what hondas are all about anyway.. squeezing all you can get.

 

Ok lets think for a second here guys. Think about exhaust and how it works. Its all based on flow. The best exhaust systems flow the best; and you get the most gains from free flowing exhaust. So lets think logically. If you take a header; say a megan racing and buy it for 180 shipped (I would know i just bought one for my b16 @ 180 shipped). To evaluate headers you need to look at mutilple things. The quality of the welds, the size of the header outlet; and the material. The megan racing header is a great product, fits well and the outlet is HUGE. Its as simple as this; if the header is BIGGER than the stock header; then your going to see or feel some kind of gain; its simple. If you upgrade your exhaust on a turbo car from 2.25 to 3" you will feel and see a gain. Why? Beacuse it flows better and its the SAME concept with a header. Just beacuse you dont pay 400 dollars for a header doesnt mean there arnt good companies out there that can produce a 180 dollar header. Im tired of seeing these threads about DONT BUY CHEAP HEADERS THEY SUCK. If its got quality welds, make of a good material, and has a nice sized outlet; go for it.

Mike

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skip01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just get a Heatsheild and BBQ black spray paint,dont waste money on somethin u allready know ur gonna get rid of later.</TD></TR></TABLE>

He's gotta valid point but if you are going to get a header I'd look into a Megan one, they run pretty cheap.

 

Just by a DC JDM 4-1 header with 2.5" collector. In mild steel w/ ceramic coat it will run u less than $300 and performs very well.

 

what do yall think bout that black ITR header though, pretty nice yah.

Curtis

 

if you are gonna eventually go boost, put the heat shield back on and save the loot and the headache.

 

If you're not a ricer then why are you buying an ex mani to just look pretty? Adding one to a bone stock engine won't really do much and you might actually lose a bit of torque. If you're that concerned with how it looks than just put the heatshield back on. Oh, I forgot... Heatshields aren't cool.

...and what are the A pillar guages for? Nevermind, you're obviously alot faster than me cuz you gots a huuuge monster tach and m4d sp33d h0les in your r0torz, y0!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikeunreal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok lets think for a second here guys. Think about exhaust and how it works. Its all based on flow. The best exhaust systems flow the best; and you get the most gains from free flowing exhaust. then your going to see or feel some kind of gain; its simple. If you upgrade your exhaust on a turbo car from 2.25 to 3" you will feel and see a gain. Why? Beacuse it flows better and its the SAME concept with a header. Just beacuse you dont pay 400 dollars for a header doesnt mean there arnt good companies out there that can produce a 180 dollar header. Im tired of seeing these threads about DONT BUY CHEAP HEADERS THEY SUCK. If its got quality welds, make of a good material, and has a nice sized outlet; go for it</TD></TR></TABLE>

This answer can become way to complicated, so I'm going to generalize for the sake of understanding....

Okay first-of-all comparing a turbo car and an NA car in-regards to the header/exhaust is apples to oranges. For the most part a turbo-car doesn't rely on back-pressure to make power, which is why a bigger dp/exhaust etc is better for turbo.

But NA cars DO rely on back-pressure etc to make power, which is why throwing-on a 3-in exhaust is (usually) a bad idea. Take off your muffler real-quick and see what it does for your low-to-mid range power.... its about power across the whole powerband. And this is where great header designs come into play. Now getting a decent header for under $300 is possible, but power gains will (usually) be minimal. And alot of times power made across the entire rev-band will be sacraficed for high top-end numbers (b/c it'll look better when they post a peak number).

This is why expensive headers are so expensive....
incorporate things like stepped primary pipes with anti-reversion chambers in them, non conventional collector shapes, the right combination of pipe length and diameter and the proper pairing of pipes in the collector.. etc etc.

Okay I'm exhausted now ... bad pun i know. But im done for now.
Basically theres a big difference between a "decent" header and a "great" header.
If you really want to gain something from a header, save your money and get a properly designed header w/ years and years of R&D. Jusy my .02

 

so I sold the tach cause i never used it its only good so i can have a shift light at 9500 rpms. the motor is not stock **** head. but i just watch the vafc if i have to. my pillar has oil and air/fuel. and the brakes had to replace cuase stock ones were wore out from hard braking at high speed so i picked these up for the hell of it and i love them. work like a dream. The love all the **** you guys talk, well most of ya.

Curt

 

Don't even consider this if you're saving for a turbo kit.

 

i really dont car bout spending the money on a header. Cuase I plan on building another block for boost, cuase the one I have is high compression. And with the block i have now im using in another car when i boost this one.
Curt

 

Yes, we are all aware that you're motor has a vtec head on it. It's still stock. I have a b18 in my eg, but the engine is stock. ******* **** head.

 

Nevermind. I'm an *******, but you're still a ricer.