93 B18a going into a 91 Dx Hatch, keeping it OBD 0. On the 93 Ls motor there is a plug/switch next to the thermostat with 2 wires (one black the other is yellow), the 90-91 ls motors don't have this plug. Did you hook this up and what is it, if so what pinouts on the ecu need to be connected to the wires?

Also, any of you running saturated injectors with an Obd 0 (pr4) ecu? I'm skeptical about doing this b/c the ecu was designed to run peak and hold (90-91) injectors. Not sure if this will cause any problems or not, assuming I don't use the resistor box. I have a set of 91 injectors w/ the resistor box but they have higher mileage on them, just wondering what will perform better with the ecu or if it makes any difference at all. Thanks

 

- just wire the thermo switch to a plug that fits it... older motors had them on the back of the block by the oil filter and the newer ones have them on the thermostat housing same thing just different location

- injectors dont matter.... just make sure if you use obd1 injectors that you take out the resistor pack or if u leave the obd0 injectors leave the pack

 

Thanks, two more questions:

1) On the back of the ls block (left of the oil filter) there is Green plug with two wires (one wire is black, the other is white with a green stripe on it). Where does this plug connect to? There is no other similar colored wires that matches up with them on the Dx (DPFI) engine harness.

2) Wiring Saturated Injectors with no resistor box: When running the resistor box, the two Yellow/Black wires from the DPFI harness are connected together then connected to the Yellow/Black wire on the resistor box. Then the 1 of the 4 output wires on the resistor box routes to each leftover injector wire. Since I'm not running the box, Do I tee off both Yellow/Black wires from the DPFI harness into 2 wires each (a total of 4 wires) and then connect 1 of the 4 wires to each leftover injector wire? Or is this wrong? Trying to make easy to comprehend

 

Regarding question #1, someone said that's it's a ENGINE OIL TEMPERATURE SWITCH which connects to the radiator fan control module and it is only found on US integra models 90-93 which is part of the a/c system. Can anyone confirm this? And do I need to hook it up, I'm still running the a/c on my civic after the swap.

Still looking for some advice regarding question #2 though

 

Bump, really need info on the injectors...trying to start it up by today

 

i know they need to be grounded to work and the box is in there to make them what is it 12.3 ohms or somthing like that. so if ur useing high ohm injectors then they need to all be grounded which is the yellow with black if im not mistaking on that.

 

first of all the ecu doesnt matter, all the ecu does is ground the signal to complete the circuit so the injector will fire.

if you are going obd0 injectors then you need to run the resistor box. what i did was found which wire was the power wire for the injectors on the drivers side shock tower connector and just ran that for the power of the resistor box then you run each lead out to each injector.

if you are going obd1, take the 2 power wires from the stock injectors and then take run 4 wires from each injector to the 2 power wires and tie them all together.

that sensor you are talking about controls when the fan comes on. nothing to do with oil, it deals with coolant. older cars like the obd0 car had that sensor on the back of the block by the oil filter, obd1 and up have this sensor on the thermostat housing. you can always swap your obd0 sensor over to the obd1 motor or you can just wire up the thermostat sensor with your stock wires. i had a plug for that thermostat sensor so i just extended my stock wires to that plug. either way

 

CivicKiller pm'ed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civickiller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that sensor you are talking about controls when the fan comes on. nothing to do with oil, it deals with coolant. older cars like the obd0 car had that sensor on the back of the block by the oil filter, obd1 and up have this sensor on the thermostat housing. you can always swap your obd0 sensor over to the obd1 motor or you can just wire up the thermostat sensor with your stock wires. i had a plug for that thermostat sensor so i just extended my stock wires to that plug. either way</TD></TR></TABLE>

This isn't the plug I was talkin about...that one has a black and yellow wire connected to it, and you're right on the 93 ls motor it's mounted on the thermo housing instead. There is an additional plug (I'll try to get pics) on the back of the block which I mentioned above in question #1

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nisif &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">93 B18a going into a 91 Dx Hatch, keeping it OBD 0. On the 93 Ls motor there is a plug/switch next to the thermostat with 2 wires (one black the other is yellow), the 90-91 ls motors don't have this plug. Did you hook this up and what is it, if so what pinouts on the ecu need to be connected to the wires?

Also, any of you running saturated injectors with an Obd 0 (pr4) ecu? I'm skeptical about doing this b/c the ecu was designed to run peak and hold (90-91) injectors. Not sure if this will cause any problems or not, assuming I don't use the resistor box. I have a set of 91 injectors w/ the resistor box but they have higher mileage on them, just wondering what will perform better with the ecu or if it makes any difference at all. Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

1st q... You need a dpfi to mpfi conversion. The thermo sensor on the back of the block need to be wired to the sensor on the thermostst housing on the obd1 block, polarity dosent matter...

The ecu, and injector systems are seperate, dont worry either way

Ryan