Aye, i got some cash and I thought I'd put new spark plug wires in since I haven't replaced them at all.. ever. If I goto Autozone to get them what should I get (name brand, generic) and shoudl I get like a cap/rotor too?

I'm brain dead at the moment because it's 6am and i've been up all night so i can't even remember what all should be replaced with the wires.

Let me know tho..

92' EG8
D15B7...

ALso, out of curiosity. WHen it comes to NOS kits, where does the nitrous get sprayed? into the intake plenum, the intake manifold?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Paprika &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Aye, i got some cash and I thought I'd put new spark plug wires in since I haven't replaced them at all.. ever. If I goto Autozone to get them what should I get (name brand, generic) and shoudl I get like a cap/rotor too?

I'm brain dead at the moment because it's 6am and i've been up all night so i can't even remember what all should be replaced with the wires.

Let me know tho..

92' EG8
D15B7...

ALso, out of curiosity. WHen it comes to NOS kits, where does the nitrous get sprayed? into the intake plenum, the intake manifold?</TD></TR></TABLE>


the wet and dry kits are into the intake, and direct port is into the mani

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Paprika &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Aye, i got some cash and I thought I'd put new spark plug wires in since I haven't replaced them at all.. ever. If I goto Autozone to get them what should I get (name brand, generic) and shoudl I get like a cap/rotor too?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do not buy your ignition components at autozone, I've made that mistake before. OEM is all I'll ever use from now on. Old OEM parts &gt; new junk from autozone.

Rotor and cap should be done every 30K. I know nothing about nitrous.

 

plug wires - Sumitomo (OEM Honda)
distributor cap - OEM Honda
distributor rotor - OEM Honda
plugs - NGK or Denso (OEM Honda)

Honda ignition systems can be a bit finicky with some brands. Stick with OEM stuff and you're guaranteed to never have ignition problems.

How old are your plug wires? I wouldn't bother replacing them unless you have 100,000+ miles on them; they're a bit expensive and usually last a long time. I have 251,000 miles on a set of Sumitomo wires that are dated 1990, and the car still runs strong.

Cap and rotor should be replaced every 30,000 miles.

Standard copper plugs should be replaced every 30,000 miles; platinum every 90,000.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AutoXer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Do not buy your ignition components at autozone, I've made that mistake before. OEM is all I'll ever use from now on. Old OEM parts &gt; new junk from autozone.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's always best to stick with OEM for parts that can affect the reliability of your car.

 

hmmmmmmmmmmm..........


good call guys. i forgot that rule. OEM &gt; .

 

Modified by CardDealer at 3:04 PM 11/16/2006

 

Yeah I'm at 153,000mi on my Civic. I don't know if they've ever been replaced before. They LOOK fine but they also don't look new either so I'm just trying to help my gas milage.

What could I do then? I change my plugs themselves frequently I'm sure... hopefully.

 

i bought a cap and rotor from importrp. There YEC ignition parts made in japan. Are they anygood or no?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-EJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's always best to stick with OEM for parts that can affect the reliability of your car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

just stick with the OEM stuff cant go wrong

 

I have honda plugs, but I went to Napa for my wires and cap/rotor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have honda plugs, but I went to Napa for my wires and cap/rotor.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yo **** bout to stop runnin too right?

 

I have three hondas and I've used both OEM and aftermarket - works fine.

Just did distributor, rotor, cap, plugs, wires from Autozone. I daily drive it and it's fine

 

neihoff cap and rotor and bosh plugs....still working good, much to people's doubts. its just a ******* d15z1, why should i dump money into it? (i have 10W30 in my tranny, 5W30 in my motor and a cone filter clamped to my TB) the upcoming GS-R, thats a diffrent story, full synthetic oil, GM syncro FM tranny oil, NGK iridiums, OEM wires, OEM cap + rotor etc etc

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by senpai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just did distributor, rotor, cap, plugs, wires from Autozone. I daily drive it and it's fine</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've done countless tuneups on Honda engines using plugs, wires, caps, and rotors from Autozone, NAPA, and Advance. Never had a problem.

You could go to the dealer for Honda parts, but IMO that's just a big waste of money. I've never seen AutoZone parts cause a problem on a Honda 4-cylinder. As was previously mentioned, do get the NGK plugs...they're available at Autozone as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by anony95ex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I've done countless tuneups on Honda engines using plugs, wires, caps, and rotors from Autozone, NAPA, and Advance. Never had a problem.

You could go to the dealer for Honda parts, but IMO that's just a big waste of money. I've never seen AutoZone parts cause a problem on a Honda 4-cylinder. As was previously mentioned, do get the NGK plugs...they're available at Autozone as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lucky for you because everytime i have installed them they screw up. Every Autozone/Adavanced wire ive ever seen installed has broke when the wires were being removed.

 

Where can you order oem parts for cheap. all the places i have seen are ******* expensive!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by anony95ex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I've done countless tuneups on Honda engines using plugs, wires, caps, and rotors from Autozone, NAPA, and Advance. Never had a problem.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

My 60K tuneup I bought cap and rotor from AZ. Went through the carwash, and backfired like crazy. The cap leaked, so I drove to the dealer, picke up an OEM one, and have been fine ever since. The aftermarket had very poor quality control, and the mating surface for the seal did not sit flush, causing the leak. I'm glad I found out at the carwash instead of on the highway in a rainstorm.

I've never had any luck with AZ plug wires, no matter what the car. 1/2 the time they don't even fit properly.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sleepy_Red_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">full synthetic oil, GM syncro FM tranny oil, NGK iridiums, OEM wires, OEM cap + rotor etc etc</TD></TR></TABLE>

Full synthetic oil and irridium plugs are a waste of money unless it's a fully built race motor. Irridium is a better conductor, but unless you're eeking out that last .001 horsepower out of your motor, they don't make any noticeable difference.

Also, you absolutely DO NOT want to run FM fluid if your tranny doesn't have any problems. It's makeup can actually wear synchros on a good tranny. There are 2 kinds of GM synchromesh, the FM and the standard non-FM. The non-FM is identical to Penzoil Synchromesh that is found in the parts store, and comparable to the Honda MTF fluid. I've used both the Honda and PZ fluid, and haven't found any difference between the two (it's hard to tell though, because new fluid in general always shifts better).

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Where can you order oem parts for cheap </TD></TR></TABLE>

http://www.slhondaparts.com

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com

I prefer the first.

 

Yeah well, If I keep the recipt and the original stuff i replace, I can put them parts back on and return the AZ stuff incase I have a problem.

Oh yeah.. it might help if you install the stuff right too. Read the accompyning directions to verify the install process, and get the CORRECT part to begin with.

Also wouldn't hurt to do a small stress test with your hands right after you get the stuff, no?

 

BUMP, but also,

When one goes to replace the Cap and Rotor, how is that done? I don't see a simple walk-through of it in the service manual (unless you know the page).

and what about a BOSCH oxygen sensor? I mean what other brands are there anyway?

 

If you use the cheap crappy Auto Zona wires they suck and don't even fit right. Just get the bosch wires from AZ instead of there cheapest ones. I got the cheapest ones and they suck still running after 6 -8 months but there just so cheap and crappy.

I took have to replace the wires/cap/rotor/ and all the belts minus the timing belt i did that already. I get i discount at Car Quest I may just buy everything there.

 

How do these wire suck so much again?

 

Modified by CardDealer at 3:03 PM 11/16/2006

 

Well I went and got em, installed em.

I basically destroyed my new rotor tho because I was inadvertently putting it on like... upside down, and it wouldn't go on so i drilled it and bored it thinking it would only take a lil bit to get it to fit, and eventually basically it was too loose. Then I tried to put the old one back on (Failsafe, right?) but it wouldn't go on either - same problem, I'm like "WTF HOW DID THEY GET THESE ON" then I was messing around and turned it 180 degrees and it slipped on. I felt kinda dumb so I cleaned the contacts of the old one and called it a day.

The car is running fine though. All the boots and stuff are snug.


One thing that does concern me though when I pulled my old plugs they were covered in oil. This has happened before but I obviously have not solved the problem. Don't even remember what was suggested to remedy it.

One problem I DID have was that the connector to Cylinder #4 spark plug wasn't "clipping" onto the plug, so I had to use a flathead screwdriver to crimp it a bit so it would hold onto the plug. All is good though.

I thought about going and getting a O2 Sensor too but I dunno..