I kinda dont understand or what proarms look like ? i know they have something to do with the suspension but what are they?

now i gonna go search lol

 

are the rear arms that bent down like this ... \_/ ?

 

Is this what you're talking about? The rear lower control arms..

 

yeah that what i was talking abt after a little search i did on my own.. i understand they dont make these any more but could it be possiable if i fabracite my own using the stock lca?

 

here is an idea I made from ms paint

 

Only way I'd use cut & welded stock arms is so that I can store my car on wheels rather than jackstands. I know that cast iron can be welded in ways that make it just as strong as before, but I would never trust something as vital as the LCA. A *LOT* of force is exerted on it, at all times.

IMO the only way I'd mess with 'custom' arms is with a solid piece of 6061 or 2024 alloy. Steel if I wanted to trade 2 pounds for a few bucks .


I'm actually going to ask my friend if he could get rough costs on something like the proarm. He regularly has parts cast in large quantities for (old) big ford cammers in china.

 

I was just wondering if mig welds would be strong enough on the cast on those lca...i dont ind try it out since i have like 6 lca laying around tho. also i'm into riding real low so i already have the front perfect with good amount of strut travel but i want to give more travel in the rear. So that why i would like to see if anybody have an better idea save those strut in the rears. the rear strut already have a DIY extened top hats.

 

bump

 

To be honest, I would look into getting them made of something that is made in one peice, Like Solid peace of billet alum. or Like everyone said here. Cast Iron.

I wouldn trust welds on that that important of a suspension peice.

 

yeah after a little while i thought about that and it would be really important to the suspension pieces. but is there any company i could request to make a set for me ?

 

Oh how I miss my ST drop forks and pro arms

 

The thing with cast is it has air pockets. I know that when i extended my lower arm front on my stock car. it took many a trial and error kind of thing. Here's what i did. I heated the cast arm until it was screaming red hot hotter the better.
I then cut it where i wanted it drilled a hole in both pieces inserted a pin for added strength. cranked the mig up to absolute maximum and welded the 2 pieces together. i then turned the mig down and ran security beads over top of the integral weld. I then machined down the weld and installed a sleave over top of the weld and welded that to the cast as well. I never had a problem with doing this for my stock car and had done it on numerous occasions for different length arms.
I can see a need to do this for the rears of EF's but i think you should really have enough adjustment out of the upper for any type of racing etc...

 

Yeah, go ahead. But if you would rather not roll your car coming around a nice turn because your cast iron control arms snapped at the weld. Then I would suggest you just buy some.

 

basically ...i'm just trying to make something in the rear to have it more strut travel since i already had good amount in the front and the rear only have a little with that DIY top hats. Dont froget ..i'm trying to get a good ride when riding low for a tight budget people like me.


Modified by SkipMic2006 at 12:38 AM 12/17/2005

 

I kinda understand little part of this but not fully ...


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Super79Dave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The thing with cast is it has air pockets. I know that when i extended my lower arm front on my stock car. it took many a trial and error kind of thing. Here's what i did. I heated the cast arm until it was screaming red hot hotter the better.
I then cut it where i wanted it drilled a hole in both pieces inserted a pin for added strength. cranked the mig up to absolute maximum and welded the 2 pieces together. i then turned the mig down and ran security beads over top of the integral weld. I then machined down the weld and installed a sleave over top of the weld and welded that to the cast as well. I never had a problem with doing this for my stock car and had done it on numerous occasions for different length arms.
I can see a need to do this for the rears of EF's but i think you should really have enough adjustment out of the upper for any type of racing etc...</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Welding cast can be done, but i would not reccomend it. If you must, i would look into a heavy penetrating fluxcore mig weld, or a 6010 stick rod (heavy penetrating rod, use multiple passes a root type weld). I wouldnt really know what would be best, but like i said welding cast isnt really the greatest thing you can do. Cast in itself is boiled up above its molton state, and way above its recrystalizastion structure, and poured into a mold. Air pockets are formed this way, and it makes it super hard to weld on, and its at its strongest state when its left in its origional poured form. I'm not saying don't do it, but you seem like a nice guy, and i'd hate to see you haulin around some twisties, and see one of those things go POP! and then your all OH KNOW I SHOULD HAVE LISTENED TO JAYDMCRX! then your like **** that hurt. Its a load baring part. Buy some aftermarket ones!

 

i been looking all over for those rear proarms lca's but i didnt find anything at all ...so i either have 2 choice 1st make my own **** 2nd keep lookking for one

 

could i weld up a set from steel tubing or so with them prothane bushings? will that be more easy but only concern is the messurments.

 

all you've got to go with is trial and error you can probably make your own however you have a lot of mounting point to consider. most important of all is the rear sway bar because as you lengthen or shorten the arm that point will move.
If you are just looking for more travel why not just buy a shortened set of koni's i'm sure that would be a lot cheaper and less time consuming.

 

how much does the shorten koni go for ...just the rear i'm looking for

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkipMic2006 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much does the shorten koni go for ...just the rear i'm looking for </TD></TR></TABLE>

About $125 each. Great shocks too, I have them on my hatch all around and am VERY pleased with them.

 

whoa .. that out of my budget

 

regular koni yellows are $125 the shortened are about $200ea

 

I'd fab up shorter front forks for my car to lower it more, but my upper control arms are already hitting as it is.

 

I was looking into previous threads about proarms, and one guy had his car slammed so low, he actually cut big holes in the strut towers (metal next to strut's upper bolts). The best thing to do is get front stock '88 accord struts for ~1 inch drop and travel, and I believe that the stock EG rear shocks are a bit shorter.