After driving 20 mins or so - the check engine light will come on, doesnt seem to effect performance or anything... turn off car, back on and start driving again, same thing, 10-20 min later (typically at hiway speeds) the CEL will come on -

any ideas?

updated with codes in thread
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1461169


Modified by hodag17 at 11:32 AM 12/12/2005

 

Well, It's definitely telling you that there is an issue with it.
I'd suggest dropping over to your local DeadZone Auto Parts store and let them get the code(s)
We need then b4 we can go further.

P

 

The XZone stores around here will only scan OBDII's. Check out the CEL code thread at the top of the civic forum to learn how to obtain the codes then post them.

 

Thats a neat little method -
so that plug is in the same spot on the accords?
I'll check it out and let you know the code.

will this code show even if the check engine light is off? (its only on after 20-30 min of driving, then goes off as soon as car gets shut off) i'd assume it is stored
in there, but just making sure.

 

Yeah, it will store it until the backup fuse is pulled or the battery is disconected. Connector is in the passenger kick panel. Sometimes it's just behind the carpet and sometimes you have to fish it out of the hole that the rest of the wiring harness is running through. You'll see what I'm talking about when you get your head down there. Betcha it's a code 43.

 

code 12 and 14, as per my new post - see first post for link.

 

Easiest thing to check is vacume leaks at: ( for code 14)
pcv valve
pcv hose
EVAP canister purge valve
Throttle body
intake manifold
Brake booster hose

 

Sounds like your carboned up. I would remove both the IAC valve and the EGR valve and clean them with choke cleaner. On the IAC make sure the screen is clear. With the EGR it helps to have a small brush to help break loose the deposits. Don't spray anything in the vacuum port. It also helps if you have a hand vacuum pump or a syringe to apply vacuum to the EGR. This will let you know if it's moving freely and if the diaphram is holding vacuum. While holding it open you can polish the pintle and seat with steel wool and it will shine like new and get a better seal. Check the ports going into the manifold before you bolt it back on and clean out any carbon you see by breaking it loose and sucking it out with a shop-vac. Get a new EGR gasket before you do this. If the old one is original it's going to tear. Clear your codes when you are finished. If the codes come back, You will need a volt meter and vacuum pump/guage for further testing.

 

thanks for your help guys,
i'll check those things out,
any other ideas?