I'm putting together a mild OEM internals D16 soon. This will be my first engine build. I'm planning on using stock bore pistons, with a real quick hone on the cylinder walls to help the rings "seat". I wouldn't trust any machine shops around my area, and this is too low budget a build to send the motor out. So I'm looking into doing my own hone job, and am looking for any comments/insight you all have.

 

Bad idea. Even a bad machine shop with the right tools will be able to do a better job than you and a hand drill.

 

I can tell you haven't seen any of the machine shops work around here.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JohnnieChimpo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bad idea. Even a bad machine shop with the right tools will be able to do a better job than you and a hand drill.</TD></TR></TABLE>

lay off the crack.

If you have a flex hone and a drill, go ahead and break the build-up off with that, use some wd-40 or amsoil MP on it while your run the hone down though. this will not make your block "like-new." It will however encourage the rings to seal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RPRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

lay off the crack.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol!, agreed

 

i third that a bad machine shop can totally ruin a cylinder. if they are that bad i would just get a nice 400 grit or finer hone. use wd-40 to hone and soapy water to clean it.

 

400 grit wont put much crosshatch back in it. i use a 120 grit flex hone from goodson and then a plateau hone with 40 wt oil on an air drill for reringing.

since the motor is std bore, the cylinders will be wavy. a rigid hone wouldnt touch all of the bore until it was way too large. flex hone is the only way to go for rering IMO. and be prepared to pump the drill pretty fast for a 60 degree cross

 

Huh?

 

Buy a bore gauge, like I did and see what your DIY hone jobs are doing.

In the end, it's your engines, you do what your concious tells you is right

 

for all these backyard builds. a flex hone is fine for these kids. i mean how hard is it to run it up and down like 5 times? just enough to break the buildup. you arent trying to straighten the walls.

the fact: all these re-ringed motors that once had over 40k miles all need to be bored and honed.

the other more important fact: younger honda owners are cheap. Most dont plan on keeping the car for years. just a year or 2. for the price of a rebuilt stock motor, they can get a whole longblock and be done with it and part out their current setup.

cliffs:
-all these motors need a bore/hone
-all these owners dont want to spend the money
-flex hone is fine for what you are doing. (just dont overdue it. break the layers, dont intend to make y our walls like new)

 

I've done it on alot of motors and not had any problems. Only thing diff. thing that I do is use ATF trans fluid when honing, because it has detergents in it.

I did my B20 motor that way and it had over 300psi of compression after brake in.

 

so up there I'm on crack

but down here I just want to do too nice of a job.

Thanks buddy!

"Fine for these kids" these are the same "kids" who spend $1200 on a header and $800 on a set of cams.

 

If this was a motor that I was sinking alot of money into, I'd definitely send it out for the machining that I felt I couldn't do at home. But this is just an experiment/get a friends car moving motor. Thanks for all the input guys!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike_belben@yahoo.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">since the motor is std bore, the cylinders will be wavy. a rigid hone wouldnt touch all of the bore until it was way too large. flex hone is the only way to go for rering IMO. and be prepared to pump the drill pretty fast for a 60 degree cross</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JohnnieChimpo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so up there I'm on crack

but down here I just want to do too nice of a job.

Thanks buddy!

"Fine for these kids" these are the same "kids" who spend $1200 on a header and $800 on a set of cams.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, your first comment was not true at all. whereas your second comment pertained to something that was out of his league

 

dont get me wrong, this is just for cheap crap, which is what he asked for. all year ive been driving a reringed 200K mile motor up and down the northeast without loosing compression or burning oil. cheap and reliable, this method has served its purpose for me flawlessly in those situations.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RPRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yeah, your first comment was not true at all. whereas your second comment pertained to something that was out of his league</TD></TR></TABLE>

Based on experience, DIY hone jobs suck, as proven by a bore gauge.

So good luck with you stuff.

 

a flex hone will leave the bores with the exact same amount of taper and out of roundness that it had before the hone,, it will just be a few tenths larger, and with a fresh crosshatch.
start with a straight block and youll still have one 8 strokes later. if not, youre doing something wrong.

 

This is the WORST misinformation I've ever seen.

DON'T hone yourself. Honda calls for a Rigid Hone. Not from a drill. a few 10ths off? HAHAH...We're talking thousandths here.

 

i am generally fearless......but this thread scares me.......lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Circuit Star-29 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is the WORST misinformation I've ever seen.

DON'T hone yourself. Honda calls for a Rigid Hone. Not from a drill. a few 10ths off? HAHAH...We're talking thousandths here.</TD></TR></TABLE>

if thats true, then why do all machine shops do this? and why do honda rings seal fine? its fine to do. done many times before; worked fine. will do it many times again; it'll work fine

-Francisco

 

i wouldnt hone it

https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvtecallmotor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did my B20 motor that way and it had over 300psi of compression after brake in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You're supposed to check it at cranking speed, not running on the other three cylinders!!

 

don't waste your breath arguing, just hit it with a brillo pad and some ajax

 

The type of hone depends on the rings you will be running. Also use ATF for lubrication when honing.