I'm looking for some input on some of the suspension setups being used on some of the cars in the sfwd class.Also what spring rate is being use in front/rear.

thanks

 

600 preload front/1000 non preloaded rear 1.50-.55 60' dc2 chassis 2500 lbs stock shocks

 

who makes the front springs

 

I have 450 up front and 1000 in the rear with illuminas. I am changing to Omni's new drag setup for next year.

 

i have d2 coil over setup now but the old setup was with skunkworks not skunk2 this was when it was called this before the real skunkworks from lockheed said they would bomb them if they dont change the name..

but preloading from what im going to explain is what i did was i compressed the 600lb spring with a spring compressor so the seat pressure would be about 200ftlbs you can do this also you just have to have the right equipment....and lock everything in and the back what i did was i just threw the spring in there and sat the car at the proper corner wieght adjustment and put solid bushings in there till i had right about 1/2"to 3/4" play thus when i do this is because when i stage and preload the clutch at the line, the back would squat till it hit the bushings and then the front would actually come up off the launch instead of hoping in the air and going if you vid your car at the side view angle you will see what im talking about...

a too stiff of a spring on a street car w/o wheelie bars you will actually see the whole car raise off the ground and then move foward .its really wierd when i here all these guys on here think a stiff spring is better because it wont squat but you actually want that just a little bit.. this is for my dc which is about 400 lbs hevier in the back than a eg hb... on my hb i did alot of testing on that too, and believe it or not a 700 lb spring is perfect for this one... with the same sequence on the bushings and corner wieght if you want more details i will gladly express my opinion on this .

p.s. this is from 10 years of suspension tweeking over the years and i got it down now

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GHOSTWORKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have d2 coil over setup now but the old setup was with skunkworks not skunk2 this was when it was called this before the real skunkworks from lockheed said they would bomb them if they dont change the name..

but preloading from what im going to explain is what i did was i compressed the 600lb spring with a spring compressor so the seat pressure would be about 200ftlbs you can do this also you just have to have the right equipment....and lock everything in and the back what i did was i just threw the spring in there and sat the car at the proper corner wieght adjustment and put solid bushings in there till i had right about 1/2"to 3/4" play thus when i do this is because when i stage and preload the clutch at the line, the back would squat till it hit the bushings and then the front would actually come up off the launch instead of hoping in the air and going if you vid your car at the side view angle you will see what im talking about...

a too stiff of a spring on a street car w/o wheelie bars you will actually see the whole car raise off the ground and then move foward .its really wierd when i here all these guys on here think a stiff spring is better because it wont squat but you actually want that just a little bit.. this is for my dc which is about 400 lbs hevier in the back than a eg hb... on my hb i did alot of testing on that too, and believe it or not a 700 lb spring is perfect for this one... with the same sequence on the bushings and corner wieght if you want more details i will gladly express my opinion on this .

p.s. this is from 10 years of suspension tweeking over the years and i got it down now </TD></TR></TABLE>

What do you recomed for the front of a hatch 500-600lbs? And please give us some more details!


Modified by Adi Radoncic at 8:54 PM 12/7/2005

 

i used a 400 lb spring on that

 

Explain why you would want the car to squat? I don't think I'm following you on this fragment:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thus when i do this is because when i stage and preload the clutch at the line, the back would squat till it hit the bushings and then the front would actually come up off the launch instead of hoping in the air and going</TD></TR></TABLE>
What do you mean by "preloading" the clutch, and "hit the bushings"?

 

Just buy the Omni Power Drag setup .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AR Fab &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just buy the Omni Power Drag setup .

</TD></TR></TABLE>



or the strange double adjustable coilovers

both are proven time and time again - no need to guess on what will work and what won't

 

or those too...lol....

 

Will my progress w/ 650f 800r be ok for my turbo CRX?

 

I have skunk2 drags for the rear need some springs for the front

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GHOSTWORKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have d2 coil over setup now but the old setup was with skunkworks not skunk2 this was when it was called this before the real skunkworks from lockheed said they would bomb them if they dont change the name..

but preloading from what im going to explain is what i did was i compressed the 600lb spring with a spring compressor so the seat pressure would be about 200ftlbs you can do this also you just have to have the right equipment....and lock everything in and the back what i did was i just threw the spring in there and sat the car at the proper corner wieght adjustment and put solid bushings in there till i had right about 1/2"to 3/4" play thus when i do this is because when i stage and preload the clutch at the line, the back would squat till it hit the bushings and then the front would actually come up off the launch instead of hoping in the air and going if you vid your car at the side view angle you will see what im talking about...

a too stiff of a spring on a street car w/o wheelie bars you will actually see the whole car raise off the ground and then move foward .its really wierd when i here all these guys on here think a stiff spring is better because it wont squat but you actually want that just a little bit.. this is for my dc which is about 400 lbs hevier in the back than a eg hb... on my hb i did alot of testing on that too, and believe it or not a 700 lb spring is perfect for this one... with the same sequence on the bushings and corner wieght if you want more details i will gladly express my opinion on this .

p.s. this is from 10 years of suspension tweeking over the years and i got it down now </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm very interested in a little more clarification on this

I'm personally running the skunk2 drag launch kit (1000lb rears) on autozone shocks on my '92 hatch, and I've cut 1.70's on 25x8.7x13's (running 10.4's @ 140mph). I thought that was pretty decent, and I think it probably has high 1.6's in it with some more seat time, but I'm always looking to improve.

Can you explain what you mean when you say that you put 200lbs seat pressure on the rears? Also, with the rears are you saying that you stiffen them up with inserts? Where is the play you're talking about (i.e., do you mean you can push the back of the car down 1/2" to 3/4")?

 

whats the omni and strange set ups go for? i dont like the junk thats on my car now

 

I got the Omni setup with steel cups from Terry@Breastfed for like $750 or somewhere in that range, I'm not really sure, it was a while ago.

Omni forgot to put the spacers in my kit and Terry was helpful with getting me all the measurements on the spacers so I could make a set of my own. The guy who answered the phone at Omni was half retarded and told me he didn't know the size, couldn't measure them, and that I should just go to Home Depot and find some washers and see what fits. to Boostfed.

 

ah tahts cool you gotta love when people dont know their own product.


i saw you need some accord interior parts...i have some depending on what your looking for.....grey leather etc etc. pm me i'll see what i still have

 

I'm using the strange double adjustables.. 400lb springs Front, 700lb springs Rear.
I've only made about 10 passes with the car, but my average 60ft was 1.6X.

I went with a little bit softer of a rear spring because I wanted it to squat just a little bit.. plus I drive the car on the street so a 1000lb spring was definately not going to happen.

If you are going to drive the car on the street.. you should take the rear spring rate into consideration.. 1000lb in the rear is not fun on the street... at least not for me.

 

Why would it matter what spring rate for the front if weight transfers backwards?

I think you would want a front strut that has been dampened significantly to stop the front from coming up too fast..?

 

I don't mind it too much (I have to drive my car 85 miles to the track) Although I wouldn't mind stepping down to a 700 if it would help hook!

 

This is an excellent thread. *bump* for more info.

 

Can you explain what you mean when you say that you put 200lbs seat pressure on the rears? Also, with the rears are you saying that you stiffen them up with inserts? Where is the play you're talking about (i.e., do you mean you can push the back of the car down 1/2" to 3/4")?


it is where you will compress the FRONT NOT THE REAR spring to see 200lb of seat pressure just like valve springs when you lock them in.... what i did was i measured how much compression it took too seat a certain seat pressure with a depth guage AND SCALE and then installed them at that hieght and pressure with a spring compressor .

as for the rear suspension you want to see your corner wieght adjustment as to where you want to equalize or whatever wieght dist. you want i have. mine is at 70% in the front and 30% in the rear of 2500 lb car what is trying to explain is that when you have the spring purched in there to what ever hieght you wanted it to be, you would then measure the distance the top cup would be to the bushing inserts you install then i would leave 3/4" rebound play there.so a 700lb spring would be fairly easy to compress by hand but would only have 3/4" of travel... hope i am explaining this well i know im a typo geek when it comes to explaining things on the computer

 

ok, i want to bring up a point that i've been pondering over for a while now.

By the laws of physics, a heavier spring will proportionally want to try to absorb more energy (take on more weight) than a lighter spring. This being said wouldn't a fwd car launching want lighter spring in the rear and slightly stiffer preloaded springs in the front?

With that question in the air your first thought will be body roll/ or pitch to be politically correct because its front to back. Which you would think with a lighter spring, that the rear end would "give in" alot more than a stiffer spring and would try to pick the front end up, and limit traction.

Now that factors that determine how the weight transfers. The cars roll center (where the weight pivots around), in relationship the the center of gravity point. The lower your roll center is in relation to your c of g the more laterally the weight will try to transfer (through the springs). The higher up, or closer your roll center is to your c of g, the more the weight will try to transfer vertically (in a side to side relationship this would be through the control arms), so i would assume front to rear this would be through the trailing arms?

So would the ideal setup be a fairly light spring in the rear slightly stiff shock, then a preloaded slightly stiffer spring in the front with about the same shock rate? this is assuming that you've got a roll center thats fairly close to your c of g.

any ideas on this?

 

very good explaination i should talk to you to try and explain this

So would the ideal setup be a fairly light spring in the rear slightly stiff shock, then a preloaded slightly stiffer spring in the front with about the same shock rate? this is assuming that you've got a roll center thats fairly close to your c of g.

any ideas on this?

but not stiffer in the front, you want some compensation of the tires growth out of the box
thats why i preload the seat pressure or you can go the other route with limit straps but i think it just more junk you dont need

p.s. compression and rebound in the shocks play a huge roll in this as well

 

yea that makes sense. plus you'd think with a soft/slower rebound you could avoid using limit straps becasue it would avoid a drastic attempt at planting the tires (which would probably provoke wheel hop)