For those with Koni yellows on their R...
I just got my set in and they said the koni yellows for the rear are Non-Externally adjustable for the R rears. Is that right? I might as well get the Illumni's till i get my teins then.
I just got my set in and they said the koni yellows for the rear are Non-Externally adjustable for the R rears. Is that right?
set to full stiff.
drop 'em in.
good to go.
any clue how to set them? and how to put these together? the instructions are CrAppy!! Thanks
It helps to have a friend with the following adjustment process.
1. Compress the piston rod into the shock body fully. What I did was set the shock end on the floor, so the rod is pointed straight up at the ceiling. Then have someone push the rod down (all the way until it stops) while you balance the shock.
2. Start turning the rod clockwise (while it fully compressed). The friend helping must not let the rod come up at all. As you're turning the rod, eventually you will feel it sink in a bit. Now you are in adjustment mode.
3. Now turning the rod counterclockwise (while still keeping it fully compressed) will give you a softer setting and turning the rod clockwise will give a firmer setting. I believe they are at the softest setting from the factory (so you might not even be able to turn the rod left at all). Remember, all of this must occur with the rod fully compressed. And be careful, the end of the rod your friend is pushing on has threads on it, you don't want to **** the threads up.
I'm not sure about adjusting them to full firmness though, it all depends on what spring rate you're running. I have Eibach Pro Kit springs front and rear and found that a full turn from the softest setting works well. I hope this info helps and that I didn't confuse the **** out of ya.
That was a great explanation man.. thanks a lot.. i was thinking bout using the Thread end Down would make it safer so i wont pook a eye out if i slip... what do you think? So do Tokico's have externally adjustable? or all type R's rear shocks like this? this sucks
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I'm ording my revavled and modified for external adjustment next week
I'm ording my revavled and modified for external adjustment next week
The easiest way to get the Koni metal tube in the top mount bushing and get the stock one out is to lube up the Koni tube with lithium grease. Get it started into the top mount by hand with the stock metal tube still in there. Then use a rubber mallet to pound the new koni tube in the rest of the way while forcing out the stock tube at the same time.
Also, I don't know what the shocks look like on a Teg. But if the Tegs use a similar shock design as a Prelude, I suggest that you try threading the lower mounting bolt first by hand with the shock by itself. On my rear Koni's for a Prelude, the bottom mounting prongs were all f'ed from the factory. The prongs were not perfectly parallel, so the lower mounting bolt would not thread through cleanly at first. I had to bend the prongs straight in a vice and then thread the lower bolt. Otherwise, it would have cross-threaded and stripped the nut that is welded on the lower mount prong...
Other than that small problem, they are great shocks. I love 'em!
Andrew
Also, I don't know what the shocks look like on a Teg. But if the Tegs use a similar shock design as a Prelude, I suggest that you try threading the lower mounting bolt first by hand with the shock by itself. On my rear Koni's for a Prelude, the bottom mounting prongs were all f'ed from the factory. The prongs were not perfectly parallel, so the lower mounting bolt would not thread through cleanly at first. I had to bend the prongs straight in a vice and then thread the lower bolt. Otherwise, it would have cross-threaded and stripped the nut that is welded on the lower mount prong...
Other than that small problem, they are great shocks. I love 'em!
Andrew
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