Running PIG rich! (d16a6 stock PM6)
ok the car runs way to rich.
I can hear it in the exhaust, a burbly type sound. When I shift gears i can hear little burbbles again. Sometimes it full out POPs from the exhaust. I only get about 200-250km / tank and cold starting starts low (1500rpm) then increases to just shy of 2k until warm. Warm idle is poopy, stumbles alot and is low (around 500rpm).
- Cap/Rotor/Plugs/Wires/All filters/Changed oil all done.
- Base timing checked and ok.
- Plugs were soaked in fuel when i changed them (put OE NGKs in)
On the way (all KNOWN to be good), FPR, MAP and I have a spare IAT im going to try (although i dont think it's the problem).
History.. This all started back in September. I was driving normall on the highway and the water pump completely broke the gear of the propeller shaft (resulting in NO circulation of coolant). Car got hot, rad popped and spit coolant everywhere inside the engine bay.
Fixed the Rad, Water pump, t-belt and tensioner. Engine checked out ok in compression and was not overheated/warped. EVER since then it's had these symptoms with the burbbly and poping sounds.
Any suggestions?
Also.. wow, long post, dont know if this is related but just recently every once in a while my alternator only charges at 11v. I'll drive 5 min and it starts working fine @ 14v!
advised requested!
I can hear it in the exhaust, a burbly type sound. When I shift gears i can hear little burbbles again. Sometimes it full out POPs from the exhaust. I only get about 200-250km / tank and cold starting starts low (1500rpm) then increases to just shy of 2k until warm. Warm idle is poopy, stumbles alot and is low (around 500rpm).
- Cap/Rotor/Plugs/Wires/All filters/Changed oil all done.
- Base timing checked and ok.
- Plugs were soaked in fuel when i changed them (put OE NGKs in)
On the way (all KNOWN to be good), FPR, MAP and I have a spare IAT im going to try (although i dont think it's the problem).
History.. This all started back in September. I was driving normall on the highway and the water pump completely broke the gear of the propeller shaft (resulting in NO circulation of coolant). Car got hot, rad popped and spit coolant everywhere inside the engine bay.
Fixed the Rad, Water pump, t-belt and tensioner. Engine checked out ok in compression and was not overheated/warped. EVER since then it's had these symptoms with the burbbly and poping sounds.
Any suggestions?
Also.. wow, long post, dont know if this is related but just recently every once in a while my alternator only charges at 11v. I'll drive 5 min and it starts working fine @ 14v!
advised requested!
My opinion is that it is a vaccum problem. With my car at least I could unplug a line, the idle would rise, but it wouldnt throw a code. That throws the MAP off and results in the car defaulting to the richest possible setting.
Don't know if it helps or not, but free bump to you anyways.
Don't know if it helps or not, but free bump to you anyways.
thanks for the info.. that is anothing thing i meant to add was that I plan to also replace EVERY SINGLE vac line in hopes of finding the problem..
thanks for the tip..
i forgot to mention, No CEL's.. i do get an o2 sensor ONCE every month or so tho (and it's only a few months old).
tips on checking the ECT, i have no spares.. should I just unplug it and look for a difference and engine behaviour?
i forgot to mention, No CEL's.. i do get an o2 sensor ONCE every month or so tho (and it's only a few months old).
tips on checking the ECT, i have no spares.. should I just unplug it and look for a difference and engine behaviour?
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