Okay. Im trading my car for a H22 EK.

Im a total newbie with it comes to H22 Swaps

So what things should I look for when looking at the swap itself?..
I know theres a mount you have to cut off and what should I look for?

Any certain weak areas in the H22 swap that I should check out and be concerned with?

 

...Come on need some help here

 

bump

 

Okay I have an H22 EG. Here's my probs that I got when I first got the car. My first H encounter. Shifting seems to always be the problems with these setups. Ever since I've gotten it i see it more and more on the net forum sites. Make sure you can shift smoothly, no play in the shifter, find out what kind of shifter box assembly is in the car, reason for this is 96-00 Accord boxes suck which is what I got, its recommended to get a 5th gen shifter box, Make sure mounts are all good, and just basically make sure the car is in good running order. The only big problem I've had and read about with these swaps are the shifting problems. Other than that nothing really besides figuring out what axle combos to run. Which I had that problem for a few weeks until I figured out the correct axle hybrid to run. But have fun with the car if you get it. I love mine it ******* slaughters just about all the N/A cars around here.

 

Thanks for the awsome advice.

 

make sure the auto timing belt tensioner is still in workin order, wouldn't want a bad surprise in the middle of a power run...they're known to give out on h22s...i would switch to manual timing belt tensioner if it hasn't been done yet..make sure axles are good, no clicking or binding on turns (a symptom of wrong axle lengths)....

 

okay im not even going to read the other response because i dont want to get tracked off and forget something, so if we both say it its obvious and probably important.

you want to make sure there is no check engine light, but make sure the light works, as in there is nothing wrong, but no one took out teh bulb, when you put the key in, then on but not starting the car, the check engine light, oil light, and battery light should all be on...make sure that happens.

see what kind of mounts and axles they have, I wouldn't get one with honda piecewise axles, only something with custom H22-in-a-civic axles, not a deal breaker but you'll need them and they're 300 bucks

mounts should be solid looking, its better to have the milled billet kind than the AVID racing kind thats welded together.

you want the wiring as clean as possible, make sure everything is soldered, again not a deal breaker if you're willing to but another harness and do it right yourself, butt-joints go bad in engine bays...period

drive it, it should feel fast as hell, especially down low, you should hear / feel vtec, there should be no weird handling issues, it should drive like any other EG.

make sure there is a resistor box in the injector circuit, it'll be a little silver or black thing wired in with the injectors..the car will run without it, but the injectors will eventually blow.

check the ECU, make sure it is either a P13 or a P72. If it is a P72 make sure it has been chipped and tuned for the H22s differences from the GSR.
if it has a P28 that has not been converted to a P72 the secondary butterflies won't open and you'll loose 7 horses down low

look to see if the header is dented where it goes under the oil pan, H22s sit low so they always get dented, another non-deal-breaker, but it'll cost 600 to get a worthwhile header for an H22 (RMF)

don't worry if the intake is ghetto, H22s dont care about what kind of piping you have, just make sure the filter is good.

see how well the shifter is installed, the old one has to be cut out and the new one has to be bolted in, some people cut too much and dont use all the bolts, which could be bad (me)

make sure the radiator is sufficient, it should either be a dual-core del-sol vtec radiator, or like a 2" thick aluminum one. make sure the fan works like stock, expletive' having to use a switch (me)

to check the year of the engine, there is a casting mark just above where the header meets the head, it should be an engine from 92-96, they are wayyy better than the ones after 96, even if the sensors were changed to OBD-1, the 92-96 engines are closed deck, like a DART b-series block (kindof)

thats all for now

 

hey you're only 5 honda-tech days older than me lol

btw if you don't print that out and use it to check the car i'll kick your *** for wasting my time

 

Okay I checked out the car a few hours ago. Problem is it was dark. But this is what I got from it

IAT sensor on the Intake arm is cut.
Is it like the 99-00 Si where it is on the Intake manifold?

Also the mounts do look solid although I do not know what kind they are. THere black with a matte finish and seem welded by factory.

It is running a P28 H program

It also has a single butterfly intake manifold

They arent any codes I checked the bulb it turned off and on.

I would have to check the axels another time. But the motor felt ****** strong as hell. So much torque in low rpms is isnt even funny.

 

There is a test pipe and still no codes?...is that just OBD1 Magic?

 

the intake temp sensor is in the manifold so you're fine.

yes OBD-1 only has one O2 sensor before the cat, so the car doesn't know if there is a cat or not.

mostly magic though

which intake manifold is it running? euro-R is the only honda one without the butterflies, look for something that looks like the throttle cable side of a throttle body on the driver side of the intake manifold.

but an H22 swap with no CEL, i'd hit it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGmikeH22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
which intake manifold is it running? euro-R is the only honda one without the butterflies, look for something that looks like the throttle cable side of a throttle body on the driver side of the intake manifold.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How can I verify that it is indeed a single butterfly intake manifold and what are you talking about looking for something on the throttle side of the thorttle body??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkAnK_aSS_BRyAn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How can I verify that it is indeed a single butterfly intake manifold and what are you talking about looking for something on the throttle side of the thorttle body??</TD></TR></TABLE>

you can verify its a "single butterfly" (some term no one uses) by checking to see if there are more butterflies, or by looking on the side of the IM to see if the actuator is there for them.

you just asked me how to tell if a cell phone had an antenna, then you asked what i was talking about with these "prongy things" that stick out the top and extend lol