I'm getting ready to start a new project, having recently sold my Type-R.

It's going to be a 92 hatchback, and I know what I want to do exterior wise, but I was wondering if anyone else has come into a prediciment like mine. I want a car.. something fast, not race car fast or anything, but quick, enjoyable, and fun. I was thinking about just throwing a ITR swap in there, but then I started thinking maybe I should look at building a motor. How much more cost effective is it to purchase an entire swap, as opposed to piecing together a built LS/VTEC setup?

If I decide to build a motor, my main goal with this car is to get deep into the 13's, maybe high 12's (on slicks) with a setup that is fairly reliable and will be driven once or twice a week at least. The car will be gutted.

 

are you going to be doing the build yourself? or are you going to pay someone to build it for you? i say save yourself the trouble/time and go with a ITR swap. you can easily hit low 13's to high 12's with slicks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92Jspec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you going to be doing the build yourself? or are you going to pay someone to build it for you? i say save yourself the trouble/time and go with a ITR swap. you can easily hit low 13's to high 12's with slicks </TD></TR></TABLE>
I won't be doing the acutually assembly of the engine myself, I'll be paying someone to do that. But, my friends and I will be doing the install of the swap into the car ourselves.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I won't be doing the acutually assembly of the engine myself, I'll be paying someone to do that. But, my friends and I will be doing the install of the swap into the car ourselves.</TD></TR></TABLE>

honestly, IMO i say just get the ITR swap an put it in with your buddies and call it a day. that ITR motor is a good starting foundation. good luck with your decision

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92Jspec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

honestly, IMO i say just get the ITR swap an put it in with your buddies and call it a day. that ITR motor is a good starting foundation. good luck with your decision </TD></TR></TABLE>

yup, will also save alot of headaches in the long run..

 

I say go for the Ls-vtec, its very cost effective. For the amount of money you will be paying doing the Type-R swap. You can build a nasty Ls-vtec set-up that will make more power then the type-R swap.

 

what about the smog laws out there in VA? will a lsvtec pass smog? im sure u can get the ITR easily to pass. if u don't have to worry about smog issues then go with the LsVtec

 

pm'd

 

Another vote for straight type R swap with good trany 4.7 LSD

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ninor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Another vote for straight type R swap with good trany 4.7 LSD
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b20Vtec i see some really crazy numbers on here with those. i'm trying to make one also, if money goes right. not relly sure how much the whole setup is gonna be, but then again an itr setup is also 4k atleast. not sure f they went down, now that k series is getting more n more popular. if u get an itr, u got 197hp at the flywheel. if u build and spend the same amount of money, maybe a little bit more. u got 200WHP, if not more. i say, save ur money and build it. chances are ur going to want to mess around with the ITR setup, performance wise. so B20VTEC build, if not lsvtec... but definitely build.

 

Theres pros and cons of both.

Type R swap is ready to be beat on, with an aforementioned LSD. You said you just sold your type r, so you know this engine, and if it pleased you, im sure it will in a gutted hatch. My b16 is a gutted hatch pleased me for the the first week

The B20vtec, ls/vtec, this swap has potential. I looked into building one of these for myself and decided it wasnt worth the cost, if done right. pistons, rods, cams, valvetrain, etc.. It just adds up.

Now i know people are going to hate on this last remark, but i believe in the reliability of oem honda stuff, espically vtec blocks with vtec heads. hope this helps

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fatalman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The B20vtec, ls/vtec, this swap has potential. I looked into building one of these for myself and decided it wasnt worth the cost, if done right. pistons, rods, cams, valvetrain, etc.. It just adds up.

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just curious, how much does is all add upto? with machine work and all. i know theres different parts and companies out there, but give me a ball park? im curious about this setup. i want to bore my b18c1 to a 2.0 thanks.

 

If you're gonna build it, you'd better do it right. Or else, you're gonna be in the hole way deeper than you planned. Doing it right ain't cheap either.

Get the ITR swap and call it day!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OH_SNAP10k_SHIFT! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


just curious, how much does is all add upto? with machine work and all. i know theres different parts and companies out there, but give me a ball park? im curious about this setup. i want to bore my b18c1 to a 2.0 thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The price to add a built bottom end (ls) to my b16 head with parts and cams/valvetrain including like 4 or 5 hundred for labor was about 3g's. Im sure it can be done for alot cheaper, but that was a proper build. for just an engine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fatalman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The price to add a built bottom end (ls) to my b16 head with parts and cams/valvetrain including like 4 or 5 hundred for labor was about 3g's. Im sure it can be done for alot cheaper, but that was a proper build. for just an engine. </TD></TR></TABLE>


dynod it yet? thats what i mean. 3gs is not that much, compared to spending 4gs on a stcok itr setup. i know people are gonna say, thats just an engine no tranny and all. tranny brand new/refurbished from a honda dealership is 1500. but like i said its only my.02

 

it depends on who your buddies are, what parts they have and how bad they need cash.

ive bought complete integra LS's running(smashed) for $300-500.. figure $400 worth of brand new seals, gaskets, waterpump, timing belt and so forth.. then whatever performance parts you want. $600 or less for a complete vtec head, determine cams, rods, pistons and so on or just go with OEM rods and some ITR pistons.. a customer of mine just got brand new oversize coated JDM ones for like $130 or something with new rings off ebay, still packaged.

i dont care if its a type R or a d16.. mileage, abuse and lack of maintenance from the previous owner wears out cylinders and pits exhaust valves. you want something with a fresh valvejob and hone, not a $5000 swap that will need a rebuild soon anyways. i cant speak for anyone else, but i have NEVER tore down a motor with 100K that didnt need a valve job on the exhaust side. and where are you gonna get a genuine type R with verified low mileage for a reasonable price?

i charge around $700 for all machine work and assembly on most engines, top to bottom.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OH_SNAP10k_SHIFT! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


dynod it yet? thats what i mean. 3gs is not that much, compared to spending 4gs on a stcok itr setup. i know people are gonna say, thats just an engine no tranny and all. tranny brand new/refurbished from a honda dealership is 1500. but like i said its only my.02 </TD></TR></TABLE>

no i didnt end up doing it because i didnt feel it was worth the money compared to other things that could of been done for simliar prices.

 

best REAL street engine i know of is just a stock b20 block with 2cc weisco shelf stocks on eagle rods. bolt on a GSR or b16 head with mild cams and valvetrain with a nice, cheap intake manifold, and then a b16 tranny with an obx lsd. very cheap, verrrrry reliable (if you have it tuned well), and it'll do 215whp no prob at all.

anything over that is a waste...my 2.1L was the worst street engine i ever had. it was TOO much. even wiht radials on it, it would just spin through 1/2 no matter what...and 3rd was tricky to keep traction....it was NOT fun for a dialy driver

 

Jar, u felt my 81.5mm LS/VTEC when i wasnt boost from 1-4k it was very torquey for what it was. I say you go with this right here.

Block 94-95 B18B1
Pistons 81.5mm SRP (high 9 to low 10 cr)
Rods Eagle
Head B16A with SuperTech Valvetrain
Golden Eagle LS/VTEC kit

Best part is, you know everywhere i went (and better places to go) to accomplish this.

Attach this engine to a Gsr Tranny with an LSD and believe me, you will never emo cry yourself to sleep again. Just ask chris. btw http://www.cnc-motorsports.com is where i got my pistons and rings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike_belben@yahoo.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont care if its a type R or a d16.. mileage, abuse and lack of maintenance from the previous owner wears out cylinders and pits exhaust valves. you want something with a fresh valvejob and hone, not a $5000 swap that will need a rebuild soon anyways. i cant speak for anyone else, but i have NEVER tore down a motor with 100K that didnt need a valve job on the exhaust side. and where are you gonna get a genuine type R with verified low mileage for a reasonable price?
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Preach on!

but most folks throw in the swap without freshing the motor up...and kaboom later on down the line. who knows how many miles is on the motor b4 you get it, plus sitting in a junkyard and in a container getting exposed to the elements.