Wassup guys,

I've been having some issues with my custom built swap harness. For some reason the car always throws a CEL for the O2 sensor heater. After the car has been driven for a while the O2 sensor looks like it gets warm enough to where the CEL goes off.

As a temporary fix I want to know if I can just wire the O2 sensor directly to the ECU conversion harness. I think the wires might be crossed somewhere in the engine harness, but for now I want to forget about trying to fix the wiring in the engine harness, and just wire the sensor directly to the ECU.

Here are the pins that I think 'll have to wire my O2 sensor to. This was from the how-to do a 1 wire to 4 wire conversion I found on hondaswap:

Run O2 Sensor signal (white) To D14
Run O2 Sensor signal Ground (green) to D22 (or any good Ground)
Run O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Control (black) to A6
Run the other black heater circuit power wire to (A25) or any good switched +12VDC source.

Let me know if you guys think that's right.

 

Hook the heater wires up to a switched 12V, like th eignition, and you should be fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SETI20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hook the heater wires up to a switched 12V, like th eignition, and you should be fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well since I'm gonna have to hook up my D14, and A6 to the ECU harness I might as well hook up the 12V to the ECU harness too. Plus there's a chance I might hook up the wrong black wire to the wrong place. If I do that I'll just go to my ECU harness and swap plugs. For my ground wire I think I'll hook it up to my old battery cable ground which has been unused since I moved my battery to the rear.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wassup guys,

I've been having some issues with my custom built swap harness. For some reason the car always throws a CEL for the O2 sensor heater. After the car has been driven for a while the O2 sensor looks like it gets warm enough to where the CEL goes off.

As a temporary fix I want to know if I can just wire the O2 sensor directly to the ECU conversion harness. I think the wires might be crossed somewhere in the engine harness, but for now I want to forget about trying to fix the wiring in the engine harness, and just wire the sensor directly to the ECU.

Here are the pins that I think 'll have to wire my O2 sensor to. This was from the how-to do a 1 wire to 4 wire conversion I found on hondaswap:

Run O2 Sensor signal (white) To D14
Run O2 Sensor signal Ground (green) to D22 (or any good Ground)
Run O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Control (black) to A6
Run the other black heater circuit power wire to (A25) or any good switched +12VDC source.

Let me know if you guys think that's right.</TD></TR></TABLE> You too? My OBD-0 --&gt; OBD-1 Conversion thread had one flaw, and that was I couldn't get the O2 heater to work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> You too? My OBD-0 --&gt; OBD-1 Conversion thread had one flaw, and that was I couldn't get the O2 heater to work.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup here is something Nikitad sent me a long time ago to help me check the wiring, but I never got around to doing it.

The pigtail that goes through the firewall should have either 6 or 8 wires. If there are only 6 wires in the pigtail:

At the 4-wire O2 sensor:

- White wire is O2 signal itself. I didnt change that from stock location, and it should be fine.

- Green wire is sensor ground. With a tester, check if there is continuity to the green wire at the TPS plug. If there is - then it's fine also.

Both whire and green wires are at the top of the plug. Now, two bottom wires should be O2 heater wires. One is "+", the other one is ground, it doesnt matter which is which.

- With the tester, one of them should have continuity to the thermostat ground (basically to the car body, or to the engine). If it does - it's good.

- The other one should have continuity to each (or any) of the yellow/black injector wires (each injector has a yellow/black wire going to it).

These were the 4 wires responsible for O2 sensor. If there is anything wrong with O2 (and according to the ECU, there is something wrong), it should be within these 4 wires.

2) If there are 8 wires going to the ECU, it means that extra two of them are the O2 heater wires - in some harnesses, I just let them run to the OBD0-OBD1 harness and be connected there. I'll have to type something up for this case later.

 

what you had at the beginning looked good,
white signal at factory plug
green is ground
the 2 blacks are 12v pos
1 goes to a6, the other to a yel/blk wire