Currently I have:
AEM CAI
Greedy PE Exhaust
2.5 in testpipe with O2 sim (Not installed yet)
Timing set to 18
ITR Rear Sway Bar
ITR Spec Front Brakes
Ground Control Coilovers with KYB AGX shocks
Potenza RE730 tires

I want something that would give me more a little more power. I have not installed the testpipe yet because I am not sure if it will give me any HP at all. My car is a 96 GSR and has 82K miles on it. I was thinking about the AEM pulleys or maybe cam gears. I have heard the stock header is good for a not heavily modified engine. Any suggestions?


[Modified by Racer, 1:55 PM 3/14/2002]

 

Forget pulleys or cam gears.

Pulleys don't give you much power at all. Most pulley kits don't even come with the crank pulley, which is the one that gives you the most. Most, being 2-5hp.

Cam gears won't do anything for stock cams.

Personally, I'd suggest getting yourself some nice cams. Add another $50-60 B&M FPR and you'll be set. They'll run around $400 and up. Keep in mind, the more aggressive cams will require springs/retainers.

Just think, after that, your redline can be increased and you'll actually be making power up there in the red "no-no" zone.

Orrrr.....umm, just ditch everything and get a turbo. Hehe.

 

becare full with the test pipe!!! That is a huge ticket!! I know in California it is $3,000 ticket. Also i would get pullys. They might give you 2hp power, the problem is that you will not get as much electricity from your alternator. Your batery will be undercharged and that is not worth 1 or 2hp. New cams would be a good improvment. I personaly like crower(www.crower.com) depending on wich stage cam you get you might need new springs.

 

Where are you wanting to go with your car?...U need a goal...Probably go w/ an upgraded header....

 

Maybe suspension to put the power to the ground?

 

Hehe, what power?? I'd still say go for some cams. You'll get good power out of those. All that i/h/e does is make the engine more efficient. It is still making 170hp, no more. Your wheel hp will be closer to your crank hp, but that's it.

With cams, you can gain crank power because your modifying internal motor pieces. The motor will itself create more power. This is a good thing.

After that, you can start to worry about suspension. A good suspension setup can be close to $1000 and that's a lot of money. Your power isn't there yet to require any major suspension work.

Good luck.

 

Ok, fine suspension for handling and looks then =P

 

Yeah, usually the order is i/h/e then you get into cams/gears/headwork/etc. It never ends, but who among us would want it to end?

 

Ummmmm....did anyone else find this totally wrong? Maybe you should edit that post

 

Nope, think about it. Let's say a run of the mill GSR makes 170hp to the crank. Let's take away 10% of drivetrain/efficiency loses to get 153hp to the wheels. (whp) If you put in intake, header, and exhaust, your air flow is more efficient, but that's it. The motor is still producing the same 170crank hp. No parts you added causes the actual engine to produce more power.

Thus, with i/h/e, you might make up some of your loses and gain some whp. Let's say 10-13 at the most. So now you're at 163-165whp. Your crank hp is still the same.

Not until do you start modifying internal engine components do you actually create more crank hp.

Now what I'm about to say is IN NO WAY directed to you.

The people who say that their i/h/e gives them 30whp, and then say they have 190hp are the riceboys.

It is a commin misconception to say that i/h/e gives you more than it actually does, but to say that it increases wheel hp by so much is just rediculous.

Hope that cleared things up a bit.

 

makes sense that you say it doesnt make anymore hp to the crank, but you arent going to increase the whp w/out increasing the bhp. you cant just increase wheel hp and not increase the hp your motor puts out. sure the i/h/e is going to make up for the drivetrain buts still going to make your motor put out more.

I dont see a car making 163-165 whp and still only making 170 bhp.

 

Yeah, i/h/e adds crank hp as well as whp. Think about the intake, more air and colder means a more powerful explosion in the cylinders, which turns the crank faster, which turns the flywheel faster, which means more hp. Also, the header and exhaust relieve backpressure so that less already-combusted air/fuel goes back into the cylinder.

And like the above post, you can't make more whp without making more bhp.

 

Why don't you get a VAFC?

 

I forgot to say I also have Ground Control Coilovers with KYB AGX shocks.

 

honestly, i'd go w/ a header, fuel pressure reg, cams, cam gears, vafc, fuel rail, injectors and ignition. in that order.

 

No offense taken, I've got a well equipped mustang too and I know all about building motors and how much little things add. I've got i/h/e on my gsr and i bet i'm probably only looking at about 140-145 whp. looking from 133 stock, and 140-145 might still be pushing it.

 

And if I/H/E dont make any power then why are there "numerous" dyno tests showing power gains? Thw whole argument on them not making anymore crank HP is oddly wrong. How can you have more wheel HP and bypass getting more crank HP? You have to have crank HP to put it to the wheels.

 

ummm maybe its cuz dyno charts show WHEEL horsepower, not crank ... just a guess

 

Stock GSR's usually put down close to 143whp, the more mods you put on your car the more power your engine makes, you'll have higher base horsepower and higher wheel horsepower, w/ intake, header, and exhaust I MAY believe 150-155 WHP, I only got 154whp w/ intake, intake manifold, header, highflow cat, and cat-back. There is now way in hell you'll get 170 whp from just that. With my Toda B's and dynotuning, I made 175whp. "Dyno's are posted on my webpage"

Your next mod all depends on where you want to go w/ your car, you build a combination, that's what gets you your power, if you have a sh*tty combination, you make Sh*tty power. Your car is only as good as its combination.

 

Those dyno plots measure wheel horsepower. You can't dyno crank power. You can easily gain wheel horsepower. How do you think you lose it? There are drivetrain and efficiency loses. Once you fix the efficiency and drivetrain, you can get more wheel horsepower.

Those above posts are correct. I know what you guys mean, but you gain VERY little crank power thru i/h/e. Your crank, if anything might be increased 2-5hp, while your whp might go up almost 15hp.

 

Yeah, how do companies come up with the crank hp numbers?

 

They have Engine Dynos as well


And I totally disagree with that bullshit above about engine mods dont increase crank HP. That arguement doesnt even make sense... But I dont have the ambition to get into this one... ahah

 

Usually its all hog wash, but to figure it out, they just estimate it. Think of it this way. A stock LS is rated 140hp flywheel, and dynos about 115hp. So we have about a 18% loss of power in the driveline, so you just factor that in when marking down the gains in whp to get estimated gains at the crank.

 

Note to self: don't go to Rutgers University in NJ.

Basically your argument is saying that increasing efficiency by increasing air flow due to restrictive i/h/e decreases pure mechanical power loss due to mechanical ineffeciency in the drivetrain. So adding i/h/e reduces friction and recipricating and rotating mass? riiiiiiighhhhht....

Lets make it more clear of an example for you. Lets put your engine on a crank dyno and setup a stock intake but blocked it by making a pea size air filter at the end of your intake pipe and made your exhaust 1200 ft long in a zig zag pattern. The crank dyno will still record 170bhp??




[Modified by teg92, 10:46 PM 3/14/2002]


[Modified by teg92, 10:49 PM 3/14/2002]

 

who cares about crank horsepower or horsepower to the wheels, with I/H/E your car will move faster than it did at stock, thats all that matters.

BTW, back to the topic, if i were you i'd get a nice set of DC 4-1 headers, not that expensive and will help your air flow, then go with a nice set of cams. After that you might want to think about getting an Apex VAFC to help get the most out of your cams.