The purpose of this thread is to gauge the Hot Rod / Pro 4 Cylinder Market. Only post in this thread if you are providing information about your Hot Rod class car.

Post your car/team info if you are currently building a car for the class, have raced the class in the past and the car is sitting, or if you are currently a racer in those classes. Please don't be shy and please take this seriously, this information is for the well-being of the sport. Please follow the format below.

-Give pics of the car
-Where you are from
-Best ET and Consistent ET
-Annual budget including travel expenses
-If you aren't racing, give the reason why you aren't racing
-Estimated cost for you to run 8.70s
-Estimated cost for you to run 7.70s

Drivers, Team Members, and Team Representatives get this stuff posted up for all to see.

Mods can you keep this up top for awhile and keep nonsense talk out of it? It will move down quickly.

Since I'm not a Hot Rod / P4C racer...I'm out.

 

-Hot Rod class
-Los Angeles / Granada Hills
-10.61@147mph & 10.6x@140+mph
-annually less than $5,000 only local races / vegas / up north
-am currently not racing cuz it's not within my means to anymore (financially & personal reasons), but i'm willing to drive anything... anyone out there looking for a driver?
- estimated cost to run 8's, hmmmmm, i've never calculated it, nor has it even crossed my mind, but i figure,in my case, EASILY over $12,000+



Modified by Agent 00m7 at 10:44 AM 11/29/2005

 

can we get a weight too...I'd like to know what kind of poundage these things are carrying

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTErnie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can we get a weight too...I'd like to know what kind of poundage these things are carrying</TD></TR></TABLE>

the coupe in my sig weighed in @ 2025 with driver.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTErnie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can we get a weight too...I'd like to know what kind of poundage these things are carrying</TD></TR></TABLE>

mine weighed in @ 2020 w/ driver

 

-Indianapolis Indiana
-9.72 @147mph
-Consitant High 9's
-I ran 7 of 10 NDRA races in 03, 1 Battle, and 2 Local races and spent around $6000 in travel expenses
-Im not racing PRO now because it is achievable for the normal working man.
-Cost to build a Pro 4 car to run 8.7 $50k
-Cost to build a Pro 4 car to run 7.7 $250k


Weight of my car was 2150 w/ driver

 

50k -250k for 7s & 8s.....daymn thats 40-240k more than i expected hahahahahaha

 

Thats the number I heard from Rousch racing for Gary, and Bryan's Cobalts

 

Canada
Best E/T 8.40
Consistent ET 8.4x
best MPH 174.23
Full season NDRA $20000.00US with parts
Estimated cost for you to run 8.70s :
I already do but you can get an exact replica of my car under $35000.00us turn key
Estimated cost for you to run 7.70s :
at least 10K to replace all the stock oem parts i'm using and aplying the power to the track

 

No offense Frenchy, but i don't think you can get your car to run 7.70's that easy. it's a big jump, and I can't see $10k making that up.

 

Ask the guys that are running 7's how much it costs. Im sure it's deep into the 100k's!!

 

yeah but if traction and power were so easy to come by wouldn't you already have it? just a question!

 

Common guys save it for another thread. Can a mod delete all the crap and lets keep this a market analysis. I'm sick and tired of hearing what everyone is GOING to race someday. Talk is cheap.

Myles B, Kenny, Jojo, Joe D, Bear, Gary, etc, EVERYBODY....lets see them and hear your input.

 

I don't think racers can say how much money will it take to run 7.70s. It's like saying how much for all motor to run 9.4s. We don't know because we haven't been there.

 

i am guessing to take my car from where it was at 2.5 years ago running high 10's to running high 8's this coming year will take around 8000 dollars. but take into consideration doing the lions share of the work myself, buying alot of the stuff i need used, doing favors for discounts off of new parts, etc. as far as traveling expenses i could only make it to a few events on the east coast only. if you had to build a car from scratch and pay someone for the labor and new parts to run low 8's it would be astronomical.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by K20Ahondas &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think racers can say how much money will it take to run 7.70s. It's like saying how much for all motor to run 9.4s. We don't know because we haven't been there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's exactly my point Norris. NDRA seems to think that cutting up a few Hondas will make them run with Gary. No one is supposed to come up with a realistic price. It is unattainable for 99% of the class participants.

 

no **** tony he will 30000.to go 7.70

 

You guys may not want to believe this but at the start to the middle part of the season the Mazda 6 ran anywhere between 8.2-7.90. We discovered something in the datalogs and realized something we can upgrade that cost us only two thousand dollars. We did it before Las Vegas and it delivered a 7.71. From that point on we have been running anywhere between 7.71's-7.90's no matter what at a cost of $2,000. It sounds far fetched but it is the truth.

The reason I give this point is that it is much more efficient to go quicker if you work smarter rather than harder. Don't think you need a gazillion dollars to go fast.

Whatever happens if you believe and want do a certain et, you can do it.....don't let anyone tell you different.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bergenholtzracing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The reason I give this point is that it is much more efficient to go quicker if you work smarter rather than harder. Don't think you need a gazillion dollars to go fast.

Whatever happens if you believe and want do a certain et, you can do it.....don't let anyone tell you different. </TD></TR></TABLE>
you cant get no closer to the truth on that one.

 

hey you can get someone to run the crx.. seems like it would fit into the rules they made at the beginning of the other post. i give you guys much respect. running good times without an unlimited source of money

our old race car (red ek hatch) cost about 25k to build back then and ran 9.20's
car was around 2050lbs i think.
travel expenses exceeded to price of the car by far

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bergenholtzracing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The reason I give this point is that it is much more efficient to go quicker if you work smarter rather than harder. Don't think you need a gazillion dollars to go fast.

Whatever happens if you believe and want do a certain et, you can do it.....don't let anyone tell you different. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree.......We ran consistant 9's (9.76...9.82...9.94).....with simple parts....a good reliable tune.....and good driver.......The car weighs 1950 w/driver...and makes only a little over 500 horsepower...

We are aiming to hit low 9's....high 8's for 2006

All Squeeze Racing
LDL SPEED SHOP

 

-Hotrod:2150 w/driver(in 1999)
-Where you are from:Bay Area
-Best ET and Consistent ET:12's(Back in 1999) 9's(2006) hopefully.
-Annual budget including travel expenses:spent 10k to finish car this year for 2006 season

-If you aren't racing, give the reason why you aren't racing:Will be racing
-Estimated cost for you to run 8.70s:10k?
-Estimated cost for you to run 7.70s:not interested

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bergenholtzracing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You guys may not want to believe this but at the start to the middle part of the season the Mazda 6 ran anywhere between 8.2-7.90. We discovered something in the datalogs and realized something we can upgrade that cost us only two thousand dollars. We did it before Las Vegas and it delivered a 7.71. From that point on we have been running anywhere between 7.71's-7.90's no matter what at a cost of $2,000. It sounds far fetched but it is the truth.

The reason I give this point is that it is much more efficient to go quicker if you work smarter rather than harder. Don't think you need a gazillion dollars to go fast.

Whatever happens if you believe and want do a certain et, you can do it.....don't let anyone tell you different. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Amen someone who understands same here I have been dropping just over 1 tenth the last 5 races started the season 9.0x and now running consistent 8.40 and the car is very reliable

look at shep same thing for him also started at 8.6X and ran a 7.97

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bergenholtzracing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> something we can upgrade that cost us only two thousand dollars. We did it before Las Vegas and it delivered a 7.71. From that point on we have been running anywhere between 7.71's-7.90's no matter what at a cost of $2,000. It sounds far fetched but it is the truth.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


put the intercooler back on the car?

 

The intercooler has been on since NHRA April Englishtown..