Which front strut tower brace is the best?
If you really decide on purchasing a front strut bar the best one seems to be Mugen's bar (the first gen), but obviously being that it is Mugen, they are very pricey. If it was me, considering the price, I would go with a front/rear strut bar setup. But either way, the difference won't be too noticable. If you haven't already, get a nice ITR 22mm swaybar. Best bang for the buck mod handling wise!
I seriously doubt that the extra money you spend on the Mugen bar is worth it. My Tanabe front strut bar was $105, beautifully crafted (polished with SUSTEC PRO etched on the bar) and has served me just fine. I would never in my life spend $285 (price from kingmotorsports.com) on a f**king strut bar. That **** is absurd. Tanabe ownz you!!
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I seriously doubt that the extra money you spend on the Mugen bar is worth it. My Tanabe front strut bar was $105, beautifully crafted (polished with SUSTEC PRO etched on the bar) and has served me just fine. I would never in my life spend $285 (price from kingmotorsports.com) on a f**king strut bar. That **** is absurd. Tanabe ownz you!!
A bit OT, but does anyone know who carries the CUSCO rear upper strut bars? I've found the CF ones, but that thing is expensive as hell.
I like the Neuspeed....but probably won't notices anything between the others unless you're like seriously into autocrossing or something.
I'll see how my car feels this weekend after my next Solo2. If I feel that the front could be tighter (because the OEM Strut tower brace is hollow steel and can flex like a spring) I might try the Neuspeed bar. I found one for 50 bucks used. Can't beat that!
[Modified by 5-SpeedFreak, 8:17 PM 3/13/2002]
IMO for street use pretty much any bar will do. But when you get into autocrossing and other professional road racing events you will probably benefit from the more expensive bars. It really all depends on what your goal is for your car.
I dont see any real purpose of changing a tower bar. Any bar will do the same if they are located in the same place. Maybe if you were changing parts like the intake manifold and the bar nolonger fit, or even you were going for something flashy... those are the only reason's I'd change the bar. Either that or you like to spend money.
from what i remember from reading on here and on HAN, the control arm is the part that does the most flexing durring hard cornering. so connecting to the control arm bolts would help with stiffening that up.
Spoon is really the best bar for the buck
Ask Dave if he gets on this thread, I think he has one on his GSR. They are really large stiff bars that are built with the quality you would expect from spoon.
Jon
Ask Dave if he gets on this thread, I think he has one on his GSR. They are really large stiff bars that are built with the quality you would expect from spoon.
Jon
my neuspeed bar rubs on my aem cai making an extremely annoying noise. for that reason im going to be switching to a skunk2. if it doesnt feel as good (which im sure it will) i will switch back to the neuspeed if possible after installing my skunk2 im and itr cai
the newest neuspeed bar looks exactly like the ITR/Comptech bar:
http://www.neuspeed.com/media/tiebar...er_si_typr.jpg
i don't think neuspeed would make their newer model bar inferior to their older model (unless it was cheaper, which it is not) so my guess is neuspeed realized that honda's original design is actually the best design for the job. i will have to trust the honda engineers on this one and say the ITR design is the best design for integras.
http://www.neuspeed.com/media/tiebar...er_si_typr.jpg
i don't think neuspeed would make their newer model bar inferior to their older model (unless it was cheaper, which it is not) so my guess is neuspeed realized that honda's original design is actually the best design for the job. i will have to trust the honda engineers on this one and say the ITR design is the best design for integras.


