Stress: Uber noob question
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Naperville, IL, USA
Stress: Uber noob question
Hey guys,
I've been concerned lately, about the health of my SH. Yeah, she's running fine, and I want it to stay that way. I also enjoy taking my car for occasional, short brisk acceleration trips.
However, I'm worried about the stress I'm putting on the engine. It's completely stock besides a SRI, and I'm afraid that it may be too much stress and it may one day burn out a valve or something. Anyhow, to get an idea, I usually, at most, once a week, floor it a few times on some backroads where I live, just to hear some VTEC and have a little fun.
Still though, I'm worried about her. I'm always gentle with her when normally driving, but I'm worried. What do you guys think? Get some tuning to compensate, or are my occasional WOT trips harmless?
Thanks.
(Also, on a sidenote, I'm not sure, but I timed my 0-60 time and got 6.5 sec, when the norm is 6.7, so I'm wondering if it's already been tuned by the previous owner).
I've been concerned lately, about the health of my SH. Yeah, she's running fine, and I want it to stay that way. I also enjoy taking my car for occasional, short brisk acceleration trips.
However, I'm worried about the stress I'm putting on the engine. It's completely stock besides a SRI, and I'm afraid that it may be too much stress and it may one day burn out a valve or something. Anyhow, to get an idea, I usually, at most, once a week, floor it a few times on some backroads where I live, just to hear some VTEC and have a little fun.
Still though, I'm worried about her. I'm always gentle with her when normally driving, but I'm worried. What do you guys think? Get some tuning to compensate, or are my occasional WOT trips harmless?
Thanks.
(Also, on a sidenote, I'm not sure, but I timed my 0-60 time and got 6.5 sec, when the norm is 6.7, so I'm wondering if it's already been tuned by the previous owner).
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From: 12.88 at 106.89 N/A
Re: Stress: Uber noob question (Markov)
omg VTAK the hell out of it man, do you think honda would have put it there if it was bad for the engine?
make sure the engine is warm, and your oil is full... honestly you could drive your car on a roadcourse for a few tanks of gas and it'll be fine.
the fact that you're stock makes it even better, you have less power. thats LESS stress on the parts not more.. think about it, your crank is only dealing with the twisting stress of about 160 horses at the wheels.
now if it was a volkswagon i'd say something different.
NOW GO GET SOME VTAK AND POUND THAT **** DOWN THE ROADS
make sure the engine is warm, and your oil is full... honestly you could drive your car on a roadcourse for a few tanks of gas and it'll be fine.
the fact that you're stock makes it even better, you have less power. thats LESS stress on the parts not more.. think about it, your crank is only dealing with the twisting stress of about 160 horses at the wheels.
now if it was a volkswagon i'd say something different.
NOW GO GET SOME VTAK AND POUND THAT **** DOWN THE ROADS
Re: Stress: Uber noob question (Markov)
I like the way you think. I am the same way. I drive my car conservatively, and occasionally go for spirited runs. I rarely floor it but I will VTAK mah shyt....yO!!
Out of all the Honda engines out there, the ones with VTEC are the ones that can withstand driving them hard. I don't agree with doing it all the time though. Every once in a while.
I tracked my car a few times when it had the H23 with 173K miles. It ran fine. Didn't burn any oil, didn't give me any problems. I felt bad taking it to redline though.
When I go for my spirited runs, I don't take it past 7K rpm. I only redline it when I am at the track.
Out of all the Honda engines out there, the ones with VTEC are the ones that can withstand driving them hard. I don't agree with doing it all the time though. Every once in a while.
I tracked my car a few times when it had the H23 with 173K miles. It ran fine. Didn't burn any oil, didn't give me any problems. I felt bad taking it to redline though.
When I go for my spirited runs, I don't take it past 7K rpm. I only redline it when I am at the track.
* B A N N E D *
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From: 12.88 at 106.89 N/A
i rev to 8000 RPM at least once a week, it has never adversely affected my engine
i'd wager to say with a stock ECU and a working fuel system and proper base timing, there is nothing a driver could actually do short of downshifting at redline that would damage an H22
i'd wager to say with a stock ECU and a working fuel system and proper base timing, there is nothing a driver could actually do short of downshifting at redline that would damage an H22
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Kitchener, On, Canada
Re: (EGmikeH22)
I revv to 8000rpm every shift. Engine still runs and pulls hard enough to kick out a 14.8 on the 1/4 mile, STOCK SRV!
Synthetic oil, keep it maintained! Oil change every 5000km (3000 miles) or less if you can afford it. Change coolant once a year, tranny fluid aswell. Keep the oil full and beat her up. You are conservative, if you actually drive like that, so you got nothing to worry about. Do a timing belt every 100XXXkms and get your valves adjusted when needed.
Synthetic oil, keep it maintained! Oil change every 5000km (3000 miles) or less if you can afford it. Change coolant once a year, tranny fluid aswell. Keep the oil full and beat her up. You are conservative, if you actually drive like that, so you got nothing to worry about. Do a timing belt every 100XXXkms and get your valves adjusted when needed.
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Re: (ludesrv)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludesrv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I revv to 8000rpm every shift. Engine still runs and pulls hard enough to kick out a 14.8 on the 1/4 mile, STOCK SRV!
Synthetic oil, keep it maintained! Oil change every 5000km (3000 miles) or less if you can afford it. Change coolant once a year, tranny fluid aswell. Keep the oil full and beat her up. You are conservative, if you actually drive like that, so you got nothing to worry about. Do a timing belt every 100XXXkms and get your valves adjusted when needed. </TD></TR></TABLE>
you are the reason that honda makes the tach fast....you are actually revving to about 7600, the tach is way off....but thats not a bad 1/4 time.....8k is definitely too much for a stock h22
on topic:
if there is any car that can take the pounding, the prelude is it.....h22s are way overbuilt in stock form, you find me one person who has thrown a rod or spun a bearing in a relatively-stock, non boosted or NOS'd, well-maintained h22, without over-revving, and ill give you a cookie....bc it doesnt happen....you will be fine
and you have no tuning to worry about with that short ram....it will be fine....
Synthetic oil, keep it maintained! Oil change every 5000km (3000 miles) or less if you can afford it. Change coolant once a year, tranny fluid aswell. Keep the oil full and beat her up. You are conservative, if you actually drive like that, so you got nothing to worry about. Do a timing belt every 100XXXkms and get your valves adjusted when needed. </TD></TR></TABLE>
you are the reason that honda makes the tach fast....you are actually revving to about 7600, the tach is way off....but thats not a bad 1/4 time.....8k is definitely too much for a stock h22
on topic:
if there is any car that can take the pounding, the prelude is it.....h22s are way overbuilt in stock form, you find me one person who has thrown a rod or spun a bearing in a relatively-stock, non boosted or NOS'd, well-maintained h22, without over-revving, and ill give you a cookie....bc it doesnt happen....you will be fine
and you have no tuning to worry about with that short ram....it will be fine....
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
Re: (mgags7)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you are the reason that honda makes the tach fast....you are actually revving to about 7600, the tach is way off....but thats not a bad 1/4 time.....8k is definitely too much for a stock h22
on topic:
if there is any car that can take the pounding, the prelude is it.....h22s are way overbuilt in stock form, you find me one person who has thrown a rod or spun a bearing in a relatively-stock, non boosted or NOS'd, well-maintained h22, without over-revving, and ill give you a cookie....bc it doesnt happen....you will be fine
and you have no tuning to worry about with that short ram....it will be fine....</TD></TR></TABLE>
he's also the reason gas costs 2.50+/gallon and there's an impending oil crisis.
CHANGING YOUR OIL EVERY 3000 MILES IS A WASTE OF MONEY. YOU MIGHT AS WELL JAM $60 UP YOUR BUTT AND LIGHT IT ON FIRE THE NEXT TIME YOU FART. what an absolute waste of synthetic oil. Furthermore, you're not extending the life of your engine, just wasting oil and throwing out the oil filter just as it's hitting peak filtering efficiency.
STOP BEING A SUCKER. Jiffy lube, Mobil, Castrol--they all have enough money, this 3000 mile myth just makes them richer.
to o.g. poster: it's a honda. which, for the most part, means you can and should beat the hell out of it. if something breaks, fix it.
on topic:
if there is any car that can take the pounding, the prelude is it.....h22s are way overbuilt in stock form, you find me one person who has thrown a rod or spun a bearing in a relatively-stock, non boosted or NOS'd, well-maintained h22, without over-revving, and ill give you a cookie....bc it doesnt happen....you will be fine
and you have no tuning to worry about with that short ram....it will be fine....</TD></TR></TABLE>
he's also the reason gas costs 2.50+/gallon and there's an impending oil crisis.
CHANGING YOUR OIL EVERY 3000 MILES IS A WASTE OF MONEY. YOU MIGHT AS WELL JAM $60 UP YOUR BUTT AND LIGHT IT ON FIRE THE NEXT TIME YOU FART. what an absolute waste of synthetic oil. Furthermore, you're not extending the life of your engine, just wasting oil and throwing out the oil filter just as it's hitting peak filtering efficiency.
STOP BEING A SUCKER. Jiffy lube, Mobil, Castrol--they all have enough money, this 3000 mile myth just makes them richer.
to o.g. poster: it's a honda. which, for the most part, means you can and should beat the hell out of it. if something breaks, fix it.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Naperville, IL, USA
Re: (bad-monkey)
Alright, thanks for the support guys. I usually shift at what my tach shows at 7500, I probably just just shift at 7000 if I'm going for a brisk run and not on the track. But yeah, I agree, Honda engines are very reliable and well-built, I just wanted to be safe since I worry about my baby all the time.
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From: Drexel Hill, Pa, 19026
Re: (mgags7)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you are the reason that honda makes the tach fast....you are actually revving to about 7600, the tach is way off....but thats not a bad 1/4 time.....8k is definitely too much for a stock h22
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have actually been told that the tach is slow..........Anyone know ?
you are the reason that honda makes the tach fast....you are actually revving to about 7600, the tach is way off....but thats not a bad 1/4 time.....8k is definitely too much for a stock h22
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have actually been told that the tach is slow..........Anyone know ?
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Joined: Nov 2004
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Re: (khalal538)
My CEL shiftlight set for 7,500RPM clicks on beautifully at 7,900 on the tach.
I think it's only at higher RPMs that it gets innaccurate, although I could play around with that and see...
I think it's only at higher RPMs that it gets innaccurate, although I could play around with that and see...
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
Re: (khalal538)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by khalal538 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so vtec engagement is really at 4,700rpms? and the fuel cut-off is really at 7,400?</TD></TR></TABLE>
nope, the difference between real and indicated RPM's gets worse, the higher up in rev's you go.
i think the tach is off about 250 revs at VTEC engagement. my tach shows approx 5500 rpms when VTEC kicks in, and stock engagement is 5250.
nope, the difference between real and indicated RPM's gets worse, the higher up in rev's you go.
i think the tach is off about 250 revs at VTEC engagement. my tach shows approx 5500 rpms when VTEC kicks in, and stock engagement is 5250.
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Re: (bad-monkey)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he's also the reason gas costs 2.50+/gallon and there's an impending oil crisis.
CHANGING YOUR OIL EVERY 3000 MILES IS A WASTE OF MONEY. YOU MIGHT AS WELL JAM $60 UP YOUR BUTT AND LIGHT IT ON FIRE THE NEXT TIME YOU FART. what an absolute waste of synthetic oil. Furthermore, you're not extending the life of your engine, just wasting oil and throwing out the oil filter just as it's hitting peak filtering efficiency.
STOP BEING A SUCKER. Jiffy lube, Mobil, Castrol--they all have enough money, this 3000 mile myth just makes them richer.
to o.g. poster: it's a honda. which, for the most part, means you can and should beat the hell out of it. if something breaks, fix it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yea i know the synthetic oil can last, its just the filter that i worry about....what do you do monkey?
oh and the tach issue....its wayy off
stock vtec on a p13 (obd1) is 4900rpm......i dont know what the myth is about 5250 but i figured it out when i had a vafc...
hondata, uberdata, etc...use the cel as a shiftlight bc its always positioned so you notice it....i think i have my light set at like 7600, but i never spin it that high, so i oughtta lower it a bit...like 7400 is plenty....
CHANGING YOUR OIL EVERY 3000 MILES IS A WASTE OF MONEY. YOU MIGHT AS WELL JAM $60 UP YOUR BUTT AND LIGHT IT ON FIRE THE NEXT TIME YOU FART. what an absolute waste of synthetic oil. Furthermore, you're not extending the life of your engine, just wasting oil and throwing out the oil filter just as it's hitting peak filtering efficiency.
STOP BEING A SUCKER. Jiffy lube, Mobil, Castrol--they all have enough money, this 3000 mile myth just makes them richer.
to o.g. poster: it's a honda. which, for the most part, means you can and should beat the hell out of it. if something breaks, fix it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yea i know the synthetic oil can last, its just the filter that i worry about....what do you do monkey?
oh and the tach issue....its wayy off
stock vtec on a p13 (obd1) is 4900rpm......i dont know what the myth is about 5250 but i figured it out when i had a vafc...
hondata, uberdata, etc...use the cel as a shiftlight bc its always positioned so you notice it....i think i have my light set at like 7600, but i never spin it that high, so i oughtta lower it a bit...like 7400 is plenty....
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Long Beach, CA, United States
Having a Lude is like having a girl friend. Driving around is just like going somewhere with her. Vtec is like sex, it's the best part, so hit that whenever and as often as you feel like it just be careful not to break her....
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From: 12.88 at 106.89 N/A
Re: (bad-monkey)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he's also the reason gas costs 2.50+/gallon and there's an impending oil crisis.
CHANGING YOUR OIL EVERY 3000 MILES IS A WASTE OF MONEY. YOU MIGHT AS WELL JAM $60 UP YOUR BUTT AND LIGHT IT ON FIRE THE NEXT TIME YOU FART. what an absolute waste of synthetic oil. Furthermore, you're not extending the life of your engine, just wasting oil and throwing out the oil filter just as it's hitting peak filtering efficiency.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you sound retarded, synthetic oil does not come from petroleum, it comes from a lab like plastic and computer chips. thats why they call it "synthetic".
wow, how ignorant... and the lead engineer of Honda's type-R division says to change oil like the manual says, and to use anything you want, dealership oil best, but expensive synthetics don't help the car.
im going to take my word over yours on what "synthetic" means, and how it is related to petroleum, and top top top Honda engineers' word over yours when it comes to changing oil.
sorry to be so brash, but you got all capitoley on incorrect data.
ignorant.
original poster: your stock rev limiter will keep you out of trouble, its like a leash, i advise you find it and see what its like to hit it, then you'll know in case you ever mess up and hit it by accident so you don't think you messed something up.
CHANGING YOUR OIL EVERY 3000 MILES IS A WASTE OF MONEY. YOU MIGHT AS WELL JAM $60 UP YOUR BUTT AND LIGHT IT ON FIRE THE NEXT TIME YOU FART. what an absolute waste of synthetic oil. Furthermore, you're not extending the life of your engine, just wasting oil and throwing out the oil filter just as it's hitting peak filtering efficiency.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you sound retarded, synthetic oil does not come from petroleum, it comes from a lab like plastic and computer chips. thats why they call it "synthetic".
wow, how ignorant... and the lead engineer of Honda's type-R division says to change oil like the manual says, and to use anything you want, dealership oil best, but expensive synthetics don't help the car.
im going to take my word over yours on what "synthetic" means, and how it is related to petroleum, and top top top Honda engineers' word over yours when it comes to changing oil.
sorry to be so brash, but you got all capitoley on incorrect data.
ignorant.
original poster: your stock rev limiter will keep you out of trouble, its like a leash, i advise you find it and see what its like to hit it, then you'll know in case you ever mess up and hit it by accident so you don't think you messed something up.
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
Re: (EGmikeH22)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGmikeH22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you sound retarded, synthetic oil does not come from petroleum, it comes from a lab like plastic and computer chips. thats why they call it "synthetic".
wow, how ignorant... and the lead engineer of Honda's type-R division says to change oil like the manual says, and to use anything you want, dealership oil best, but expensive synthetics don't help the car.
im going to take my word over yours on what "synthetic" means, and how it is related to petroleum, and top top top Honda engineers' word over yours when it comes to changing oil.
sorry to be so brash, but you got all capitoley on incorrect data.
ignorant.
original poster: your stock rev limiter will keep you out of trouble, its like a leash, i advise you find it and see what its like to hit it, then you'll know in case you ever mess up and hit it by accident so you don't think you messed something up. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you aware of the common practices of US-market synthetic oil manufacturers, post 1995? are you aware of the fact that most, if not all, major market (exluding redline, amsoil, or other smaller specialty lubricant mfr's) use a group III conventional basestock or group III additive solution for their motor oil formulations?
in layman's terms, "synthetic oils" as we get them, are mostly very fancy versions of conventional, petroleum based oils that undergo a number of processes to alter their chemical properties. so, yes, your "synthetic oil" is in part, if not wholly made up of dino. If and when the majority of US market motor oils become pure group IV and V basestocks, then your point will be valid and i will be rendered ignorant.
to my knowledge, US Castrol (vs. German-market Castrol which is a "true syn"), quaker state, Shell, Chevron, or any major motor oil mfr that isn't Mobil uses a group III basestock. Mobil uses a group III for their additive package and a group IV, basestock in their post 1995 formula. I am unsure as to the makeup of their new "15,000" mile variety, but for the past 9 years Mobil 1 has been part dino.
The manual specifies oil change intervals of what, 5000-6000 miles, assuming that the owner is using conventional oil? Independent tests have shown mobil 1 and amsoil having TBN lives that far outlive 6000 miles (more like 18,000 for m1, and ~15,000 for amsoil), but hey, if you like changing oil every 3000 miles i guess oil execs need some way to buy their kid's way into harvard and yale. furthermore, with the way that h22's drink oil, the constant adding of fresh motor oil to the crankcase refreshes the existing oil, making it usable for a longer period of time. but i suppose some people like to pretend that they're more "dedicated" to their cars than others by overchanging the oil.
your "word" means dick. get your oil analyzed at blackstone or another independent lab, or bone up on your chemistry. and, in step with h-t tradition, i think this is where i tell you to "STFU" b/c telling us your ET doesn't automatically make you an expert on anything and your trap speed does not = dick size.
mgags: lab analysis for a number of prelude drivers has filter life pegged at approx 7500 miles. this is for the OEM sized filter. peak filtering for your typical oil filter happens in a range between 2000 and 4000 miles, when the filter element has trapped some particulates that aid in filtering. I change the filter around 6000-7500 miles, depending on how much the car's been abused in the interval and when i have the time. the oil stays in for approx 10,000 miles.
wow, how ignorant... and the lead engineer of Honda's type-R division says to change oil like the manual says, and to use anything you want, dealership oil best, but expensive synthetics don't help the car.
im going to take my word over yours on what "synthetic" means, and how it is related to petroleum, and top top top Honda engineers' word over yours when it comes to changing oil.
sorry to be so brash, but you got all capitoley on incorrect data.
ignorant.
original poster: your stock rev limiter will keep you out of trouble, its like a leash, i advise you find it and see what its like to hit it, then you'll know in case you ever mess up and hit it by accident so you don't think you messed something up. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you aware of the common practices of US-market synthetic oil manufacturers, post 1995? are you aware of the fact that most, if not all, major market (exluding redline, amsoil, or other smaller specialty lubricant mfr's) use a group III conventional basestock or group III additive solution for their motor oil formulations?
in layman's terms, "synthetic oils" as we get them, are mostly very fancy versions of conventional, petroleum based oils that undergo a number of processes to alter their chemical properties. so, yes, your "synthetic oil" is in part, if not wholly made up of dino. If and when the majority of US market motor oils become pure group IV and V basestocks, then your point will be valid and i will be rendered ignorant.
to my knowledge, US Castrol (vs. German-market Castrol which is a "true syn"), quaker state, Shell, Chevron, or any major motor oil mfr that isn't Mobil uses a group III basestock. Mobil uses a group III for their additive package and a group IV, basestock in their post 1995 formula. I am unsure as to the makeup of their new "15,000" mile variety, but for the past 9 years Mobil 1 has been part dino.
The manual specifies oil change intervals of what, 5000-6000 miles, assuming that the owner is using conventional oil? Independent tests have shown mobil 1 and amsoil having TBN lives that far outlive 6000 miles (more like 18,000 for m1, and ~15,000 for amsoil), but hey, if you like changing oil every 3000 miles i guess oil execs need some way to buy their kid's way into harvard and yale. furthermore, with the way that h22's drink oil, the constant adding of fresh motor oil to the crankcase refreshes the existing oil, making it usable for a longer period of time. but i suppose some people like to pretend that they're more "dedicated" to their cars than others by overchanging the oil.
your "word" means dick. get your oil analyzed at blackstone or another independent lab, or bone up on your chemistry. and, in step with h-t tradition, i think this is where i tell you to "STFU" b/c telling us your ET doesn't automatically make you an expert on anything and your trap speed does not = dick size.
mgags: lab analysis for a number of prelude drivers has filter life pegged at approx 7500 miles. this is for the OEM sized filter. peak filtering for your typical oil filter happens in a range between 2000 and 4000 miles, when the filter element has trapped some particulates that aid in filtering. I change the filter around 6000-7500 miles, depending on how much the car's been abused in the interval and when i have the time. the oil stays in for approx 10,000 miles.
Re: (bad-monkey)
HAHAHA, I think I will take Bad Monkey's word over a guy who revs to 8000 rpm every shift. lol
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
he's also the reason gas costs 2.50+/gallon and there's an impending oil crisis. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Also because he is consuming more gas
Man, there are so many idiots out there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
he's also the reason gas costs 2.50+/gallon and there's an impending oil crisis. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Also because he is consuming more gas
Man, there are so many idiots out there.
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,167
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From: Milwaukee, WI, USA
Re: (kenzolude)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kenzolude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Having a Lude is like having a girl friend. Driving around is just like going somewhere with her. Vtec is like sex, it's the best part, so hit that whenever and as often as you feel like it just be careful not to break her....</TD></TR></TABLE>
anyone else thing this is the best comment by a newbie evar?
Sig worthy.
anyone else thing this is the best comment by a newbie evar?
Sig worthy.
Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,196
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From: Nobody fcuks with the Jesus...
Re: (iLude)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iLude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
anyone else thing this is the best comment by a newbie evar?
Sig worthy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
possibly. But I think the original poster is one of the biggest newbies ever...
anyone else thing this is the best comment by a newbie evar?
Sig worthy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
possibly. But I think the original poster is one of the biggest newbies ever...
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Joined: Mar 2004
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Re: (EGmikeH22)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGmikeH22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you sound retarded, synthetic oil does not come from petroleum, it comes from a lab like plastic and computer chips. thats why they call it "synthetic".
wow, how ignorant... </TD></TR></TABLE>
you, my friend, need to do some reading.....ignorant is a harsh word to use when you have no frame of reference...(gotta love the lebowski lines
)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGmikeH22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and the lead engineer of Honda's type-R division says to change oil like the manual says, and to use anything you want, dealership oil best, but expensive synthetics don't help the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
and as you should know, type-r means type-racing, and when you race cars, oil experiences a LOT more breakdown than it does in a motor where a kid is worried that babying it is going to ruin it....lol.....
that synthetic oil has been proven to last over 7500 miles w/o breakdown, the oil is not the reason to change, its the filter that limits the time period
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGmikeH22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im going to take my word over yours on what "synthetic" means, and how it is related to petroleum, and top top top Honda engineers' word over yours when it comes to changing oil.</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is no matter of your word against his, its a matter of fact, synthetic oil is still made from good old petro.....if we could make a 100% synthetic oil and sell it for only double the price of regular, then why would the world be worrying about running out of gas ever?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGmikeH22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry to be so brash, but you got all capitoley on incorrect data.
ignorant.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ignorant, quite......<FONT SIZE="4">capitally</FONT> ignorant....
<FONT SIZE="10">NOW!!!!!!!!</FONT> back to what i asked, monkey, what is the best filter to run for 5k+ miles???
wow, how ignorant... </TD></TR></TABLE>
you, my friend, need to do some reading.....ignorant is a harsh word to use when you have no frame of reference...(gotta love the lebowski lines
)<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGmikeH22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and the lead engineer of Honda's type-R division says to change oil like the manual says, and to use anything you want, dealership oil best, but expensive synthetics don't help the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
and as you should know, type-r means type-racing, and when you race cars, oil experiences a LOT more breakdown than it does in a motor where a kid is worried that babying it is going to ruin it....lol.....
that synthetic oil has been proven to last over 7500 miles w/o breakdown, the oil is not the reason to change, its the filter that limits the time period
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGmikeH22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im going to take my word over yours on what "synthetic" means, and how it is related to petroleum, and top top top Honda engineers' word over yours when it comes to changing oil.</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is no matter of your word against his, its a matter of fact, synthetic oil is still made from good old petro.....if we could make a 100% synthetic oil and sell it for only double the price of regular, then why would the world be worrying about running out of gas ever?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGmikeH22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry to be so brash, but you got all capitoley on incorrect data.
ignorant.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ignorant, quite......<FONT SIZE="4">capitally</FONT> ignorant....
<FONT SIZE="10">NOW!!!!!!!!</FONT> back to what i asked, monkey, what is the best filter to run for 5k+ miles???