Here's the reason for questioning. Im helping somebody with a project, both are around 4000 for the complete swap. the B18c5 would be installed by the user, or the k20 installed by a shop so that can be factored into the debate price wise.
Heres the breakdown of what we are looking for.

B18C5
-head work *valve job, maybe port and polish*
-cams and complete valvetrain upgrade *bc 3 or toda*
-jdm 4-1 header *considering an-r *
-stock block
-upgraded mounts and axles *hasport*
-TWM ITB's (pretty set on that)
-Hondata

K20a2
- DTR Fab header
-custom intake *or injen*
-K-pro
-Hasport mounts
-type r cams*maybe*

Both will be ran thru a apexi WS2 exhaust.

so with that said which one would i get the most out of say 10k spent. im talking motor to specs listed and in car and running, not including tuning because i cant put a budget on that. i figured about 8-9k for the B18c5 all said and done, and about the same for the the k20a2 installed all said and done. hell if the k20r is in that neighborhood also, throw that into the discussion.

so the final question is for around 8-9 grand, with the above mods listed which one will i be able to hit 200whp+ with on a good tune(shawn church) WITHOUT TOUCHING THE BLOCK ON EITHER MOTOR, and no LS/b20/k24 vtec talk, not really interested in that set up for this project.

all input welcome. thx.

 

both of the set-ups you have are well over the 200 whp mark, but the price to put the k20 in is going to be more than the c5, the c5 i know comes stock port n polish from honda, and the k20 pnp does nothing....according to scc, they recently had that insane artice with the k20 where they spent 10k and made over 300 whp without any crazy compression numbers, but back to the thread, the k20 is going to be a "newer" motor, so it will have been ragged on less, and the k20 has that extra gear (6th baby), and the k20 is lighter than the c5, and the k20 responds to bolt ons like i dont know what, the k20 looks better imo, and is just blingage to the bay, but the work to get one in is insane, and if some1 finds out you have a k20, you best be getting you an alarm, caz that will be eyed everywhere you go, the, also what car is this going into?????? but if money is not a problem, i dont know anyone who wouldnt chose the k20, there is another major pro to the k20, but i just cant think of it right now ill get back to you on that one

 

Thanks for giving some feedback. the car will be a 99 coupe. The one thing that just crossed my mind, is if they k20a2 can reach the whp levels of the b18c5 with just bolt ons and less intense mods, it will keep more reliability right?? Which might offset the difference in price......... any other feedback??

 

B-Series

 

k series man

dont do b series if money is not an issue go k20

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pworld &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for giving some feedback. the car will be a 99 coupe. The one thing that just crossed my mind, is if they k20a2 can reach the whp levels of the b18c5 with just bolt ons and less intense mods, it will keep more reliability right?? Which might offset the difference in price......... any other feedback??</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea reliability will be better with the k20, the other thing that i forgot to mention that is a big plus to the k20 is in its name, lol, its 2.0 liters instead of 1.8, but yea reliability will be better with the k20, greater hp with less mods

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by young noob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yea reliability will be better with the k20, the other thing that i forgot to mention that is a big plus to the k20 is in its name, lol, its 2.0 liters instead of 1.8, but yea reliability will be better with the k20, greater hp with less mods </TD></TR></TABLE>

ahh yes, more torque with less mods im assuming.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pworld &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ahh yes, more torque with less mods im assuming. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

With the k20a2 you'll have a whole lot of potential. With just those bolt ons people hit 12s on slicks, and are at the 215-220ish whp and 15x tq if your running R cams.

 

k all the way

 

what idiots voted for the itr swap instead of the k20?? LOL

 

K20a type r motor was purchased, no looking back, best motor for the application, wish us luck with the install


Modified by Pworld at 6:59 PM 12/15/2005

 

good choice!!!
you wont be dispointed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by young noob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">both of the set-ups you have are well over the 200 whp mark </TD></TR></TABLE>

wrong

 

k20 is the new breed of swaps. If it is within the price range get the k.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slick GS-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

wrong </TD></TR></TABLE>

alright, maybe not well over, but they will be over

 

I own a built B series and I voted for the K series. If I had it all to do over again, there would be a K series under my hood.

 

i would tell you to do a ls vtec but thats not an option. but if you have the dinero, go for the K

 

I would go with the B18C, they are like legos when it comes to working on them, but K20 if you got the money

 

If you are willing to do without AC then the K is definelty the choice.

 

i have a udsm itr swap and i love everything bout it..the trans/LSD/the power!!

 

If money doesn't matter to you then go with the K. Its a lot easier to swap in a B series than a K motor and less expensive as well.

 

B-Series all the way....

maybe Im biased because I see RSX's being towed into my job every week with snapped rods/overworn wrist pins.

 

K20 because it has more potential.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NAisBEST &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe Im biased because I see RSX's being towed into my job every week with snapped rods/overworn wrist pins. </TD></TR></TABLE>

On stock motors?