As most of us can relate to having no power locks, does anyone know a quick kit to automate the locks? I want to put on my alarm but it would be nice to get it wired in while I have the locks hooked up.


Modified by drSquish at 7:53 PM 11/28/2005

 

Ask the alarm shop, they can do it for you.

 

i've heard that LX/EX sedan lock motors can bolt right up to the latch.

 

you've "heard" or is it fact?

 

this came from fourthgenhatch.com pics are located on the site. go to how-to then electrical, then keyless entry.

Parts/Tools
Keyless Entry Kit w/ Actuators (I used Autoloc CK2000)
Wire Strippers (Automatic ones are the best!)
Male and Female Connectors (like the ones in the kit)
Screwdriver set
Socket Wrench w/ 8mm and 10mm sockets
2 2'' bolts with nut (that will fit inside you actuator mounts)
2 2 1/2'' bolts with nut (same as above)
Zip Ties

Instructions

Prepping the Kit
Whenever I do anything to my car, I like to take a couple of days to prepare everything so when I put it on the car it works and I don't have to deal with figuring out things at the installation stage.

What I did first was to read all the instructions to find out which wires on the kit I would be using, and which I would not be using. I either used twist ties to bunch up all the unused wires or I cut them off and put a connector at the end incase I may need to use it in the future I can just pop the wires together.

Next I attached the 2 controller parts of the kit, the reciever, and the control box together where it said they should be. I added connectors to the reciever so it's wires could pop right onto the control box's wires. Then I cut the positive wire and the negative wire on each kit and connected them both together. For the positive wire I connected them right after the fuse so both parts could utilize the fuse in case of a surge.

Installing the Kit
Now with a lot of the wiring already done installing the kit will be simpler. The first thing you need to do is take off the door panels on each door so you can mount the actuators underneath them. Because Civic panels are so thin there isn't much toom to mount the actuators. The best place to put them is in the arm rests right behind the door handle. I mounted them with the plunger part of the actuator with about 1'' of clearance between it and the door panel to make sure nothing hit each other...

I used some 2'' and 2 1/2'' bolts and nuts to hold it to the door. The reason for the difference in size is the door has indentation in some part so you need a longer bolt to make it work. Just stick your hand behind the door and tighten the nut with your fingers, that will be enough to hold it. You will need to bend the metal bar that attaches to the actuator so that it will fit correctly behind the door panels. I bent it into a sort of square root/check mark sort of shape. If you tighten the nut closest to the door handle you will be able to angle the actuator inward making it easier to clear the door panel. If you bent the bar right you can get it pretty flush with the door. Then attach it to the lock's bar with the supplied parts.

Now if the actuators are mounted you are ready to install the wiring for it. I wired it into my stereo since that was easy enough and I can hide all the wires under the center console. All I had to do was hook up the positive and negative wires. I connected the positive into the Stereo's positive, and then bolted the negative wire up to the chassis where the stereo grounds to. Very easy. After that you have to program the remotes which is easy enough.

Now you should have power to the actuators once you plug them in. For the driver side run the wires up under the dashboard. Around the fender you will see a grommet next to another one with wires. I used a screw driver to punch out this grommet and easily run the wires through that...

Now grab the wires from inside the fender and pull out the grommet in the door and squeeze those wires in side you door. Now just run those wires on the bottom of the door and connect them to the actuators. I punched a hole in the plastic sheet and ran the wires inside to make it less cluttered. At this time your door actuator should work. Give it a try.

For the passenger side wiring I ran the wires under the carpet around the dash and then used the stereo grommets to run the wires since I found no other pre-made holes in the body of the car. I had to remove the metal bar that was in front of the heater core to get enough room to stick my hand up in there. Then I simply did the same as I did on the other side and hooked everything up. Now both my doors worked!

After than you can put back everything for the doors. I then mounted the control boxes up behind glovebox... used zip ties to hold them up in there.

Supposing everything works you can put your interior back together. You can now welcome your doors into the 21 century!


that's his write up, i would have posted the link..but the link for everypage is just fourthgenhatch.com..i hate sites like that. good luck with the install

 

just buy an alarm with enough outputs to lock/unlock your doors and have them add door silenoids to unlock/lock your doors when you arm/disarm. It's only $50 extra per door. So when you start the car it will lock the doors as well, and unlock when you turn off your motor. I even have one on my hatch to unlock it when I hit the opt button.

 

I've had it on all of my civics, and they are smart enough to know not to lock if you start the car with your door open. So, you don't get locked out of your car.

 

that is a good idea

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DieMaster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've heard that LX/EX sedan lock motors can bolt right up to the latch. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i know u can add the lx/ex motors to DX sedans. but for hatches or crxs idk

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DieMaster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> but for hatches or crxs idk</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll have an answer for CRXs when I get to pull-a-part next time. I think it will work. But sometimes I'm stupid, so we'll see about that.

 

damn, I guess the alarm shop is the way to go. I'm just paranoid that one of these shops rigs it in a easy-to-steal manner. Or rig it so they know how to break in easy.

 

The car easy to steal or the alarm? There is always a way to disable alarms, but you can take measures to complicate things. Like my valet switch is in a hard to get to place. On my old car if they were trying to steal something from under the hood, I had airhorns under there to give them more anoynances.

If they were to cut my battery cable to disable the alarm I had a backup battery. On this car, they have to figure out which line is the cable going to my battery since the battery is in the trunk and both lines are black and are not out in the open for you to see them.

There is also secondary sensors, mercury switchs, pagers. You don't have to get everything. Only what you think is going to be good enough to deterthe thieves. And if what you thought would work, doesn't add something else.