I'm in the process of replacing my rear hub assembly. 4th GEN

For those who do not know - the wheel bearings in the front of 4th gens are serviceable. The rears are not - meaning you will have to purchase an entire hub assembly. I purchased one from NAPA for about $109 w/discount. AutoZone quoted me $175. For the record, I suggest you buy a new hub assembly - not used.

The process is not difficult at all. Just a tideous process. As long as you're somewhat mechanically inclined - you can replace the rear hub assemblys.

Here we go......

1: Jack up the rear of the vehicle - on which ever side you're using. I guess it will be easier to use a lift - but I don't have one outside my apartment Its not bad using a jack.

2: Remove the wheel and place the lug nuts in some coca-cola or if you have a shop - soak them in a parts washer.

3: Remove the caliper - you can do this by using a rubber malet and lightly tapping the middle section. It will slide off.

4: There will be something holding the brake pads on the rotor. If you look behind it, there will be two 9/16" bolts. Remove those, and that mechanism and the brake pads will fall off.

You're halfway there.

5: Place those to the side - and put the bolts in the parts washer or some coca-cola to clean them.

Now, you have two options.

Option 1: If you're like me, you will be replacing the rotor along with the hub assembly.

Option 2: You just want to replace the hub assembly. Sucks for you.

To complete option 1 you will be able to remove the entire hub assembly along with the rotor at the same time. All you have to do is use a rubber mallet and beat it out. It takes a while - but it works. Hit behind the rotor and you will start to see the bearing come out in between the rotor and heat shield. Keep on beating.....make sure you beat all around the back of the rotor. It makes the task much easier (but still takes a while).

Once you have it out - its just a reverse process. Make sure you don't beat on the rotor as much. This is a new rotor - be very careful. Since you're installing a new hub assembly and a new rotor - I suggest installing the hub assembly first. This way you have a spot to beat on . Just beat on the hub assembly on the outskirts. Once its in you will be able to put the rotor on. Go to a honda dealership to see what screws fit on the rotor - because you will want to use new screws. Put the rotor on and screw it on tightly. Throw the wheel on....torque the lug nuts down to spec and get to an alignment machine.

To complete option 2 you will have to unscrew the two rotor screws(they are threaded into the hub assembly.) There should only be two screws - but 4 holes. Now, the damn screws are a bitch to get off. I gave up actually and started removing the entire thing w/the rotor. But every phillips i have will just strip the screws. And I don't have access to a drill right now. So, i'm assuming your best bet would be to use a drill. If I were you, I'd take the entire thing off - THEN remove the rotor from the hub.

Sorry. If i can get pictures I will.

Note: If you're replacing the rotor along with the hub - i suggest using new brake pads. Just go all out. It won't cost much. Easy process - good luck.

~TheKingPin~

 

just a note...those 9/16 bolts are actually 14mm

there are no standard size bolts like that on hondas....(for the most part, im sure someone will chime in with an exception)

good writeup

 

Thanks for the clarification.

I'll try to add pictures once i'm finished.

Its cold and raining here - so every thing feels like it hurts Damn indiana.........

 

this should be stickied, and for the rotor retaining screws...refer to an impact driver

 

Good to see you got those replaced man.

Writeup

 

yeah - it was about time. My car is still parked though........i was just tired of looking at it like that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soundbomber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this should be stickied, and for the rotor retaining screws...refer to an impact driver </TD></TR></TABLE>

Or, just use a punch and hammer and tap the outer edge of the screw counter clockwise to loosen the screw..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheKingPin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now, the damn screws are a bitch to get off. But every phillips i have will just strip the screws.
~TheKingPin~</TD></TR></TABLE>

this tool called an impact driver has phillips bits in it but you hit the end with a hammer and it pushes in the tip while turning it at the same time so you dont strip the screws. Also once you get the dust cap off to get to the hub/spindle nut, the socket size is a 1.25 inch socket(didnt have metric so couldnt tell you what it is). The front spindle nut is 36mm which is way bigger.


Modified by djbrandonr at 8:38 AM 11/29/2005

 

Not in the rear.

The hub comes right out - all it is is pressed in.

I think you're talking about the front.

 

Im just gonna clarify, the spindle comes right off the whole RLA assembly but the bearing/hub comes off the spindle. Both can come off at the same time you solely remove the spindle, but in most cases its just the bearing that goes out and makes the noticeable whooshing sound when driving and is mainly what needs to be rplaceed, which is what I was describing before.

If your replacing the bearing its #2 in the pic and is also desribed as "BEARING ASSY., RR. HUB UNIT " which is the piece that also has the lug bolts on it.


However if you wanna replace the spindle it would be part #10/11, described as "SPINDLE ASSY., R. RR. WHEEL ".


What happened w/ me was I ordered the spindle and thought it came w/ the bearing, but it didnt. So I had to return that and order just the bearing/hub.