i put a little motor oil on the bearing and any place where i could see friction. im 99% sure i installed the crank right. anyways its in there tight and i cant get it to spin. what could it be?

 

You have a problem somewhere. It doesn't matter how much lubricant is on the bearings. I am assuming you have the crank bolted down (torqued down main caps) and didn't install the rods yet. You should be able to turn the crank by hand. How did your main clearances stack up? It might be your main bearing bores are not exactly "in line"--you might need to get the block line bored. That is what I had to do. My crank (with lube on it) required 50 lb/ft to turn--not good!! After I got the block line bored (with the proper clearances on the bearings) I could EASILY turn it with one hand. Wound up with about 0.0020" clearance on the mains. motor runs fantastic now. You have got to disassemble the caps and re-check everything.

 

Another thing u could of nicked the crank bearing surface and its jaming or ur bearins are too big

 

undo one by one and try to turn the crank, you can pinpoint wich one/s is caousing the bind.
did you measure bearing clearances?>

 

no didnt measure the bearing clearences. i will though. i blew the b16 over the summer and instead of rebuilding mine im going to buy an ls motor. so i have a perfectly good b16 in the basement of my house besides one cracked piston so im just rebuilding it for fun. ill never use it again. i just want to rebuilding it to learn and i knew i would probably put it together wrong. hope i didnt wreck anything. the bearings all have a part number on them. i think i put the bearing in the wrong journals. is there a diagram of each part number and where they go. 5 bearings with 3 different part numbers. one have yet another part number. i thought they were all the same.bearing has 1 number and then 2 bearings have the same other part number and then the last 2 bearings


Modified by the.hamburglar at 7:42 PM 11/27/2005

 

You need to get a helms manual and read about bearing thicknesses. There are a few different bearing sizes, so you will need to measure clearances to know what goes where. No way around it.

 

or trial and error....when your rebuilding it for fun

 

IMO, you may have knocked the thrust bearings out when putting the crank back in... i did once. they'll jam the crank without being noticeabley out of place.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by the.hamburglar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or trial and error....when your rebuilding it for fun</TD></TR></TABLE>

If your just going to "build it for fun" and use it as a door stop, why do you need the crank to spin? If you really want to learn how to build, you need to read. period.

 

Any attempt to spin the crank will end up in the damaging of the crank journals. Don't take this the wrong way but if you don’t know how to rebuild a motor do yourself a favor and buy or read on how-to rebuild a motor. It will save you time, money, and frustration in the long run.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crazi-85crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IMO, you may have knocked the thrust bearings out when putting the crank back in... i did once. they'll jam the crank without being noticeabley out of place.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you mean thrust washers? there are two of them. no they are not out of place.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bosco500 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If your just going to "build it for fun" and use it as a door stop, why do you need the crank to spin? If you really want to learn how to build, you need to read. period.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

of course i need the crank to spin. im not that retarded to build my motor for fun and then cant put on a timing belt because i cant get the cam gear to point at each other....


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ZC1.8crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Any attempt to spin the crank will end up in the damaging of the crank journals. Don't take this the wrong way but if you don’t know how to rebuild a motor do yourself a favor and buy or read on how-to rebuild a motor. It will save you time, money, and frustration in the long run.</TD></TR></TABLE>

iv got the helms in fron of me. when i first took out the main bearings (there are 10 of them) they all looked the same so i didnt pay any attention to where they went. then i noticed they all have different numbers on them ie. (1F15M, 1G47M, 1F17C, etc...) obviously they are different bearings now i need to know where they go in. i thought i could figure out the codes according to the book to i installed them and now the crank wont spin.

the book also says there will be color on the edge of the bearings. well i can see a green marker on one of the bearings but not one of the other 9 has any green on it or any other color for that matter. so how do i go about knowing what thickness goes where? how can i decifer the "main journal code locations" which are the numbers located on the crank? like C on one side and then 2 on the other.

 

here is a pic on how i put the caps on. this better be right. its what the book says i just dont know if i put them on upside down. meaning i could flip each on 180*?

 

all the main/rod bearings are the same (so don't worry about the #'s) as for those caps, just make sure the number stamped on the side (half on rod, half on cap) line up. pistons all pointing right way?

other than that, i'm lost.

 

pistons are not in. and im pretty sure the bearings are different sizes. why else would they put different part numbers on them. can someone else confirm this and let me know what bearing goes where?

 

what are the the specs that the block/ crank calls for? you got to figure that out first.
the the letters and number of the block and crank and match them to the chart you find on your service manual.
we can go from there.

 

i had problems spining the crank in this engine i just rebuilt the bottom end on, but the i was also spining the the crank and the cam.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mmuller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what are the the specs that the block/ crank calls for? you got to figure that out first.
the the letters and number of the block and crank and match them to the chart you find on your service manual.
we can go from there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ill check when i get home but it has 5 numbers like CCBBB on the block. yeah i know what you mean by matching them up but how do you do that? the helms manual is very breif. there are like color codes and then number codes and it looks like the journal the crank sits in get slightly larger at the journals approach the flywheel side.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by the.hamburglar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ill check when i get home but it has 5 numbers like CCBBB on the block. yeah i know what you mean by matching them up but how do you do that? the helms manual is very breif. there are like color codes and then number codes and it looks like the journal the crank sits in get slightly larger at the journals approach the flywheel side.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This page explains how to match the numbers and letters up.

 

yea i read that but since i am putting in the original bearings there should be no need to use the plasigauge. i just need to figure out what size the bearings are by the part number. thanks

 

i guess ill also add that if i do have to use platigauge and it sets and i can see i need a thicker bearing then what one would i use. the numbers on the bearing itself have to do something with the size obviously so how can i tell the size?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by the.hamburglar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea i read that but since i am putting in the original bearings there should be no need to use the plasigauge. i just need to figure out what size the bearings are by the part number. thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

holy jesus man... you remind me of my wife!!

plastigauge the bearings. it will only cost you about 5 bucks. then that will tell you the clearances. if the clearances are WAY too tight, the crank wont turn. your only other option is to buy brand new color coated bearings so you will know where they go. I COMPLETELY UNDERSTAND that you are only building the motor for fun, but if you want it to turn over and not do damage, you need to use plastigauge. just follow the manual, its easy.

 

ok so there is no way around this plastiguge stuff then? there has to be because the way they came out is the way they need to get back in. i have the right bearings i just need to know the order. so if i actually do have to use plasti and it shows that i need a thicker bearing then how am i supposed to know what one is thicker?

 

Ahaha ohhh man...Look man plastigauge is very helpful and is a safe way to tell you which bearing you will need, but ......you don't have to....if you match the correct letter on the block to the crank. I just recently rebuild my motor and it running time to date and did not use any plastigauging. Just be sure you match it up correctly though...and if your not sure then use the plastigauge method.

 

ok, but how do you match it up. i dont understand the instructions from the helms

 

You using stock rod, crank, and oem parts right? If so then there are 5 letter stamp on the block on the top right corner. Use that letter and connect each letter to the number on the crank. There are 5 number on the crank. Let say I have DCCCC and on the crank the number is 33343 then it would be D3, C3, C3, C4, and C3. Now that you got those number use the chart from above and get your color bearing from Acura.