the stereo in my 1990 si hatch isn't working right. barely any sound, and all fuzzy.

i looked at the old speakers, they were ****, so i replaced them

stereo is still really quiet with no sound from the drivers speaker.. so i swap in a known good head unit from my accord

same problem...checked the continuity in all the speaker wires and they are all good...what to check now??

SUMMARY: known good head unit, speakers, and have continuity in wires to speakers, but sound is quiet and staticy and almost nothing from the drivers speaker

 

might seem like a long process, but wire in a small amp and power the speakers with that. see if it makes a difference. or what you can do first is run new speaker wire from the speaker to the headunit.

 

As an installer, I can tell you it is a 5 minute job to run new speaker wires into the doors of that car. Do that, and that eliminates any doubts.

New radio.
New speakers.
New wires.

That should fix it....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VegaS10 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As an installer, I can tell you it is a 5 minute job to run new speaker wires into the doors of that car. Do that, and that eliminates any doubts.

New radio.
New speakers.
New wires.

That should fix it....</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree, I had the same problem. The wires get all shitty after some years!

good luck

 

alright, new wires it is
having never done any stereo work, help me out

what do i do about the pins to go into the connector in the back of the headunit? can i buy new pins to put on the new wires?

what about the connnectors on the speakers? one looks to be a standard size that is easily bought bu the other one is much smaller

 

The pins on the speakers are quick disconnects found in different sizes at any electronic parts store.

With the speaker wires going to the head unit harness, I know it seems shitty but you simply cut the harness wires down to about an inch and solder your speaker wire with the thicker gauge and thicker insulation right to them. You still get the benefit of the heavier gauge speaker wire because it's less resistance over the long distance between the head unit and speaker. It's not like a water pipe that would bottleneck.

You'll get a nice improvement in sound and power from the upgraded speaker wiring alone. But you'll really be wanting to get a new headunit to make use of those new speakers.

 

alright enlighten me a little

replacing the wires looks like a huge PITA....i dont want loose wires running everywhere, what is the best way to do this?

do i have to take the door apart so that i can put the wires in the rubber sleeve that the rest of the wires are in? the stereo wires seem bundled in with a lot of other wires, do hyou just cable tie the new wires to the bundle?

also...just went to radio shack and they dont have the right size pins for the speakers....that place is worthless

 

anyone else?

if this is a 5 minute job id just like to know the best plan of action...so that im not dicking around with this for a few hours

 

anyone?

i dont see how getting the wires thru the door is a 5 min job.

stereo is out, speaker/speaker mount is out, the only part that looks hairy is getting the wire thru the door pass-thru into the car

i can't get my hand into the door enough to unclip the harness from there, and i can't get to the car side of it under the dash without removing a lot of stuff .............. unless i am missing something,

 

Open the door and you'll see the rubber boot that runs from door to frame of the car. Take that loose from both the door and the car. By doing this you'll be able to run the wire from the inside of the car to in between the door jamb. Slide the wire out the car and down into the loose rubber boot. Pull it out the rubber boot and into the door. Reach into the doorand pull the wire through. Pull the wire to the desired tension, leaving some slack for "just in case". Re-attach the rubber boot to the proper locations. Now, you can leave the factory wire if you choose to do so. Removing those may suck, so, leave them be. You can solder the new wire to the speaker, or, you can crimp them on there, or simply wrap them around the speaker terminals.

 

Also, make sure there are no speaker wires exposed to metal. Grounding out a speaker wire can cause issues and headaches. Make sure you use the factorsy brackets to mount the speaker. If you don't have the bracker, make sure the wiring tabs are not touching bare metal.