Well i just got finished with my compression test..here are the results starting from
Right to Left
#1=175 psi
#2=160 psi
#3=190 psi
#4=175 psi

So what do you guys think? im not really happy with those results. I borrowed a buddies of mine compression tester..so now im going to go buy a new Crafman tester to see if anything changes.. Thanks

 

seem a little low
does it smoke? or burn any oil

 

No smoke nor burn oil

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LatinEM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well i just got finished with my compression test..here are the results starting from
Right to Left
#1=175 psi
#2=160 psi
#3=190 psi
#4=175 psi

So what do you guys think? im not really happy with those results. I borrowed a buddies of mine compression tester..so now im going to go buy a new Crafman tester to see if anything changes.. Thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>

Results are fine. Was it done with a cold engine or a warm engine? Did you have the throttle wide open? How many crank did you do? Its CRAFTSMAN, and I don't think its going to "help" your numbers any... I wish people would get off the "how high can I get my numbers" game and really understand WHAT the point of a compression test is...

 

wow....dang jumped his nuts for wanting to know if his motor is still in good shape...some people test for added insurance that there motor is healthy....

 

So what the point of a compression test? It was done on a warm engine at WOT and crancked 7 times. I know its CRAFTSMAN..it was a typo.

 

You would get more usable results with a leak down test. But overall, the numbers say it looks OK.

Nominal 184 psi

Minimum 135 psi

Maximum Variation 28 psi

 

I just wanted to check the engine before i boost..my kit is getting here today..woot. Going to do the leak down test possibly on the weekend.

 

Do a valve adjustment and do another test. Also make sure if your doing WOT to keep it open at all time because if you close it youll get different numbers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16delteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow....dang jumped his nuts for wanting to know if his motor is still in good shape...some people test for added insurance that there motor is healthy.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm sorry, did you have something.... say.... usefull to add to this post?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by my_slow_civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You would get more usable results with a leak down test. But overall, the numbers say it looks OK.
Nominal 184 psi

Minimum 135 psi

Maximum Variation 28 psi
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Amazing.... someone did get it!

 

your just mad cause ur ****'s slow

 

Numbers aren't hideous, but I too would like to know if you did the same number of revolutions per cylinder and if the engine was warm/throttle was open. The #2 is the only one a bit off.

And if you did do it warm/right, did you try a wet test afterwards? Just wondering if you put a teaspoon of oil in the #2 if it came up drastically or not.

 

Yes it was done warm..at WOT..yeah did 7 cranks on all cylinders.

what is that wet test? No i didn't put oil on the #2 cylinder..should i do it? TIA

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16delteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your just mad cause ur ****'s slow</TD></TR></TABLE>

And yours isn't?

 

lol

 

do it for 5 cranks, take out the fuel pump relay. and 28 psi is alot, i can't believe honda has that spec. i thought it was 10% of the highest #

 

so yes, minimal is 135 max is 185, but 10% between all cylinders, this engine has got to be low on power
do a leak down and see where your losing comp.

 

Thanks for the ideas..i'll try to do the leak down test..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95DxSi-R2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so yes, minimal is 135 max is 185, but 10% between all cylinders, this engine has got to be low on power
do a leak down and see where your losing comp.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Go put it on a dyno and bet me its right on par with the other ones with similar mods. People get so involved in "how high" they can get numbers and crap. Numbers will vary gauge to gauge and with things like temperature and elevation..

 

ok. i'll bet you with my si-r engine, with my craftsman compression gauge (which i've used 3-4 diff. times) yes temp., but not elevation can have an effect, 160 in 2 and 190 on 3, what does that tell u? i'll do it in the morning and post my results.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95DxSi-R2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok. i'll bet you with my si-r engine, with my craftsman compression gauge (which i've used 3-4 diff. times) yes temp., but not elevation can have an effect, 160 in 2 and 190 on 3, what does that tell u? i'll do it in the morning and post my results.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You will bet me that using your craftsman gauge temp will have an effect but not elevation? and how are you going to prove this one again?

Your comment was 'this engine has got to be low on power'.. I am saying bet me that based on his compression test results, its not.

 

No one is caught up in how high the numbers are here man, at least not me. I am caught up in his 30PSI split.

Numbers will vary from gauge to gauge but not on the same gauge from cylinder to cylinder. The same gauge will give the same readout over and over again on a cyl with the same pressure. That being said, his #2 is low, no matter how you slice it.

 

i'm not saying i'm right, but air is air, yes there is less O2 to hydrogen with higher elevation, but your still going to have the same combustion volume. Maybe moisture might have an effect, because water doesn't compress. Explain why elevation will effect compression.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95DxSi-R2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm not saying i'm right, but air is air, yes there is less O2 to hydrogen with higher elevation, but your still going to have the same combustion volume. Maybe moisture might have an effect, because water doesn't compress. Explain why elevation will effect compression. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Air is air yes, but as you increase in elevation, the pressure will DECREASE... as you decrease in elevation, pressure will increase. While it may not make a HUGE difference in the readings, it will change them somewhat.

 

Most of the people dont know dick about how those numbers work, and how you get them.

Atmospheric pressure at sea level is 14.7psi. So doing a compression check at sea level, you take whatever your CR is (expected) times 14.7psi, = your end result.

In other words, if you have an engine thats supposed to have a 10.8:1 CR, the ideal compression results in all cyllinders should be 158.76 ft/lbs.

(14.7 * 10.8 = 158.76)

If your not at sea level, which few people are, then atmospheric pressure is higher, thus resulting in a higher AP multiplier.

The general rule of thumb is as long as your motor is +/- 10% in all cyllinders, then its considered healthy.

Your median in 2 cyllinders were 175psi, so the 160 & 190 reads are still within the 10%.

At this point, if your still concerned, id do a leakdown test to see if you may have a potential problem with your rings, headgasket, valves, etc.