5 lugg on a DA9? good idea or bad?
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From: Richhhhh.
yeah i thinking about picking up a Da9 and was wondering if itr usdm 5lugg will fit
on a Da i heard the front fits with no problems But the rear you have to change the trailliing arms or???
help me out on this GUys and
<U>pictures would be great.</U>
Or Should i not even think about putting a 5lugg on a DA
Good or bad idea?
Thanks
on a Da i heard the front fits with no problems But the rear you have to change the trailliing arms or???
help me out on this GUys and
<U>pictures would be great.</U>
Or Should i not even think about putting a 5lugg on a DA
Good or bad idea?
Thanks
bigger brakes are always a plus... you might wanna check out http://www.g2ic.com .. im sure it has been covered in there for modifications needed
good for the bigger brakes that come w/ the itr setup...
but your wheel selection will be smaller and more expensive...
there is no advantage to having 5 lug over 4 lug...if thats all you want it for...
but your wheel selection will be smaller and more expensive...
there is no advantage to having 5 lug over 4 lug...if thats all you want it for...
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For the $1,000 or so that one would spend on a 5 lug setup, you can get much better brakes.
Look:

That setup is on a DA. You can source used NSX or Legend front calipers, and then get the rotors for that application and have them drilled for 4X100. MUCH cheaper than 5 lug and with better brakes. And you don't even have to get new wheels.
Sorry, but the setup might not make all of the JDM leg humpers get a boner over an extra lugnut. You just get bigger brakes.
Look:

That setup is on a DA. You can source used NSX or Legend front calipers, and then get the rotors for that application and have them drilled for 4X100. MUCH cheaper than 5 lug and with better brakes. And you don't even have to get new wheels.
Sorry, but the setup might not make all of the JDM leg humpers get a boner over an extra lugnut. You just get bigger brakes.
The rear trailing arms bolt up.
The front knuckles bolt up but youll have positive camber. Easily fixed if you drop your car low enough. I had dc2 gsr front knuckles on my old da and at stock height camber was positive by about 3 degrees. I dropped it 2.5 and the front camber was near perfect. No abnormal wear at all.
Dont listen to the haters. If you want to do this go ahead and do it. Its your car and you can do anything you want to it.
The front knuckles bolt up but youll have positive camber. Easily fixed if you drop your car low enough. I had dc2 gsr front knuckles on my old da and at stock height camber was positive by about 3 degrees. I dropped it 2.5 and the front camber was near perfect. No abnormal wear at all.
Dont listen to the haters. If you want to do this go ahead and do it. Its your car and you can do anything you want to it.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by red chimera gt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dunno if it'll fit or not, but If you're truly doing this for the performance aspect [ie, wanting to fit a nasty brake setup] then do it. if you're just doing it because you think its cool.. don't waste your money.</TD></TR></TABLE>
save this 05 member!!1 haha
save this 05 member!!1 haha
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kNOwLedGeDA9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Sorry, but the setup might not make all of the JDM leg humpers get a boner over an extra lugnut. You just get bigger brakes.</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha word
Sorry, but the setup might not make all of the JDM leg humpers get a boner over an extra lugnut. You just get bigger brakes.</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha word
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kNOwLedGeDA9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For the $1,000 or so that one would spend on a 5 lug setup, you can get much better brakes.
Look:

</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hahahahahahahaha...
Wow, alright, you can leave now. I mean, you're right but, just not when you post that picture.
Cross Drilled rotors suck, this is why porsche drivers who road race typically switch to blanks at the track. If they're cast like that, they're not AS bad but still unfunctional for todays standards.
Look:

</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hahahahahahahaha...
Wow, alright, you can leave now. I mean, you're right but, just not when you post that picture.
Cross Drilled rotors suck, this is why porsche drivers who road race typically switch to blanks at the track. If they're cast like that, they're not AS bad but still unfunctional for todays standards.
there is just something inherently wrong with redrilling rotors that aren't made for your car. not only does it look tacky but you're screwing with the integrity of the rotor where it mounts.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KooK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Hahahahahahahaha...
Wow, alright, you can leave now. I mean, you're right but, just not when you post that picture.
Cross Drilled rotors suck, this is why porsche drivers who road race typically switch to blanks at the track. If they're cast like that, they're not AS bad but still unfunctional for todays standards.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Uhhhhhhhhhhh.....it's not like you have to get drilled rotors. You can always get blanks.
I could care less what Porsche drivers use, and I don't need you to tell me to leave. Your post was completely off the topic of larger brakes. Who cares about the rotors....Holes in brake rotors have nothing to do with the size of the brakes.
What kind of idiot are you?
Hahahahahahahaha...
Wow, alright, you can leave now. I mean, you're right but, just not when you post that picture.
Cross Drilled rotors suck, this is why porsche drivers who road race typically switch to blanks at the track. If they're cast like that, they're not AS bad but still unfunctional for todays standards.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Uhhhhhhhhhhh.....it's not like you have to get drilled rotors. You can always get blanks.
I could care less what Porsche drivers use, and I don't need you to tell me to leave. Your post was completely off the topic of larger brakes. Who cares about the rotors....Holes in brake rotors have nothing to do with the size of the brakes.
What kind of idiot are you?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by silver j »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there is just something inherently wrong with redrilling rotors that aren't made for your car. not only does it look tacky but you're screwing with the integrity of the rotor where it mounts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you say so..... Those brakes are on a RACE CAR. I doubt the owner would put them on there if it messed with the integrity of the rotors.
Why don't you tell me EXACTLY how drilling 4 holes in something that is made to have holes in it is "screwing with the integrity" of the rotor....that makes absolutely no sense.
That's like saying that wheels with universal bolt patterns (wheels that have holes for 4X100 and 4X114.3 for example) have their integrity screwed up, which is a farce.
If you say so..... Those brakes are on a RACE CAR. I doubt the owner would put them on there if it messed with the integrity of the rotors.
Why don't you tell me EXACTLY how drilling 4 holes in something that is made to have holes in it is "screwing with the integrity" of the rotor....that makes absolutely no sense.
That's like saying that wheels with universal bolt patterns (wheels that have holes for 4X100 and 4X114.3 for example) have their integrity screwed up, which is a farce.
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From: Richhhhh.
i h ave the 5lugg aLready its on my db8 but selling it without the 5lugg an might consider to get 93 gsr and didnt want to sell o ut my 5lugg so would want to resuse it. But i will check out g2ic an if you guys got pics of it on cars let me see thanx again.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kNOwLedGeDA9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Why don't you tell me EXACTLY how drilling 4 holes in something that is made to have holes in it is "screwing with the integrity" of the rotor....that makes absolutely no sense.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think he's referring to the possibility of the rotor cracking if its done wrong or drilled in the wrong spots. I've seen it happen...it was quite an interesting site....along with the rest of the front end that was smashed. Of course though....it being a cause for the accident or a result of the accident...I dunno. I only know what I saw
. However, if you have someone who knows what they're doing, then I wouldn't worry. I've seen it done many a times with NO PROBLEMS. As far as those universal ones...I agree with you on that one. There are those who "redrill" wheels too....to make them fit. But that looks way too tacky and fugly ( in short it ruins the looks of the wheel )
Why don't you tell me EXACTLY how drilling 4 holes in something that is made to have holes in it is "screwing with the integrity" of the rotor....that makes absolutely no sense.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I think he's referring to the possibility of the rotor cracking if its done wrong or drilled in the wrong spots. I've seen it happen...it was quite an interesting site....along with the rest of the front end that was smashed. Of course though....it being a cause for the accident or a result of the accident...I dunno. I only know what I saw
. However, if you have someone who knows what they're doing, then I wouldn't worry. I've seen it done many a times with NO PROBLEMS. As far as those universal ones...I agree with you on that one. There are those who "redrill" wheels too....to make them fit. But that looks way too tacky and fugly ( in short it ruins the looks of the wheel )
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kNOwLedGeDA9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Uhhhhhhhhhhh.....it's not like you have to get drilled rotors. You can always get blanks.
I could care less what Porsche drivers use, and I don't need you to tell me to leave. Your post was completely off the topic of larger brakes. Who cares about the rotors....Holes in brake rotors have nothing to do with the size of the brakes.
What kind of idiot are you?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hoooooly ****... Man you just need to step away from the keyboard "Holes in brake rotors have nothing to do with the size of the brakes." Hahahaha.
Alright, when you put holes in the rotors, what are you doing? You are removing mass from the rotor itself. What heats up faster, an 11 inch rotor or a 12-13 inch rotor? Well if you have a 12-13 inch rotor with enough holes punched through, you're going to have just as much mass as an 11 inch rotor which will... MAKE YOUR ROTORS HEAT UP FASTER? OHHHH NOOOOO!!! Plus you are taking away from the surface area in which you brake.
If I'm on the brakes from a 180mph stretch going into a sharp corner I can only take at 80mph, thats 100mph I gotta lose at a HIGH rate of speed. Those 13 inch cross drilled rotors are going to heat up way faster than 13 inch blanks due to the mass they're missing, thus, the cross drilled rotors are going to boil the brake fluid as quickly as a smaller rotor.
So how can you say "The size of your rotor has nothing to do with if its cross drilled."
In my initial post, I said you were right in the fact he didn't need a 5 lug swap for larger rotors, but at the same time, I was making fun of the picture you posted. I'm sorry but cross drilled rotors are one of my ultimate pet peves due to people believing they're so much better, for no good reason. You could have either agreed with me and said "Yes, cross drilled rotors suck," or "You're entitled to your own opinion." But you're going to have to pardon me, I'm still trying to get out of "Kills mode," so I'm being a smartass.
I'm sorry I went off on you about the picture, but don't try to tell me that holes in your rotors have nothing to do with how large of rotors you need
.
I could care less what Porsche drivers use, and I don't need you to tell me to leave. Your post was completely off the topic of larger brakes. Who cares about the rotors....Holes in brake rotors have nothing to do with the size of the brakes.
What kind of idiot are you?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hoooooly ****... Man you just need to step away from the keyboard "Holes in brake rotors have nothing to do with the size of the brakes." Hahahaha.
Alright, when you put holes in the rotors, what are you doing? You are removing mass from the rotor itself. What heats up faster, an 11 inch rotor or a 12-13 inch rotor? Well if you have a 12-13 inch rotor with enough holes punched through, you're going to have just as much mass as an 11 inch rotor which will... MAKE YOUR ROTORS HEAT UP FASTER? OHHHH NOOOOO!!! Plus you are taking away from the surface area in which you brake.
If I'm on the brakes from a 180mph stretch going into a sharp corner I can only take at 80mph, thats 100mph I gotta lose at a HIGH rate of speed. Those 13 inch cross drilled rotors are going to heat up way faster than 13 inch blanks due to the mass they're missing, thus, the cross drilled rotors are going to boil the brake fluid as quickly as a smaller rotor.
So how can you say "The size of your rotor has nothing to do with if its cross drilled."
In my initial post, I said you were right in the fact he didn't need a 5 lug swap for larger rotors, but at the same time, I was making fun of the picture you posted. I'm sorry but cross drilled rotors are one of my ultimate pet peves due to people believing they're so much better, for no good reason. You could have either agreed with me and said "Yes, cross drilled rotors suck," or "You're entitled to your own opinion." But you're going to have to pardon me, I'm still trying to get out of "Kills mode," so I'm being a smartass.
I'm sorry I went off on you about the picture, but don't try to tell me that holes in your rotors have nothing to do with how large of rotors you need
.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kNOwLedGeDA9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you say so..... Those brakes are on a RACE CAR. I doubt the owner would put them on there if it messed with the integrity of the rotors.
Why don't you tell me EXACTLY how drilling 4 holes in something that is made to have holes in it is "screwing with the integrity" of the rotor....that makes absolutely no sense.
That's like saying that wheels with universal bolt patterns (wheels that have holes for 4X100 and 4X114.3 for example) have their integrity screwed up, which is a farce. </TD></TR></TABLE>
a rotor is designed to have x amount of holes. all of its r&d and testing has been for x amount of holes that were cast into the original production of the rotor. once you add and use new holes, you have created stress upon the rotor that has not been there before and now you've also got x amount of holes just sitting there not aiding in the distribution of that stress at all. this suddenly creates a situation where you could warp the rotor at its mounting point causing numerous issues or worst case scenario have stress cracks from the holes leading upward. now these are worst case scenarios but i don't see how i'd want to chance the ability for my vehicle to stop for a couple hundred dollars. but that is just me.
If you say so..... Those brakes are on a RACE CAR. I doubt the owner would put them on there if it messed with the integrity of the rotors.
Why don't you tell me EXACTLY how drilling 4 holes in something that is made to have holes in it is "screwing with the integrity" of the rotor....that makes absolutely no sense.
That's like saying that wheels with universal bolt patterns (wheels that have holes for 4X100 and 4X114.3 for example) have their integrity screwed up, which is a farce. </TD></TR></TABLE>a rotor is designed to have x amount of holes. all of its r&d and testing has been for x amount of holes that were cast into the original production of the rotor. once you add and use new holes, you have created stress upon the rotor that has not been there before and now you've also got x amount of holes just sitting there not aiding in the distribution of that stress at all. this suddenly creates a situation where you could warp the rotor at its mounting point causing numerous issues or worst case scenario have stress cracks from the holes leading upward. now these are worst case scenarios but i don't see how i'd want to chance the ability for my vehicle to stop for a couple hundred dollars. but that is just me.
[QUOTE=KooK
Cross Drilled rotors suck, this is why porsche drivers who road race typically switch to blanks at the track. If they're cast like that, they're not AS bad but still unfunctional for todays standards.[/QUOTE]
Don't mean to pick on you, but your comment about cross drilled rotors makes no sense to me. I dont think there is one car manufacturer such as BMW, Ferrari, Mclaren, Porsche,lamborghini, that do not use cross drilled rotors on their higher class cars. You might be right but that tells me that they might be good for something.
Cross Drilled rotors suck, this is why porsche drivers who road race typically switch to blanks at the track. If they're cast like that, they're not AS bad but still unfunctional for todays standards.[/QUOTE]
Don't mean to pick on you, but your comment about cross drilled rotors makes no sense to me. I dont think there is one car manufacturer such as BMW, Ferrari, Mclaren, Porsche,lamborghini, that do not use cross drilled rotors on their higher class cars. You might be right but that tells me that they might be good for something.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raffiT78 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't mean to pick on you, but your comment about cross drilled rotors makes no sense to me. I dont think there is one car manufacturer such as BMW, Ferrari, Mclaren, Porsche,lamborghini, that do not use cross drilled rotors on their higher class cars. You might be right but that tells me that they might be good for something. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Typically you will see large cross drilled rotors on high end model cars for a few reasons.
1. The rotor itself, size, mass, amount of holes has been designed for the car.
2. Typically in high-end cars, the rotors are CAST this way, they are not actually drilled.
Now, when you design a brake system for cross drilled rotors, the rotors are typically going to be larger or have more mass to them, along with being cast, you can make it a very functional rotor all around.
Here's the added benefits to rotor types.
Blanks - Most area for pad to grab, typically the most mass, great for most types of racing.
Cross Drilled - Decreased Mass which means cools down faster, but also heats up faster, great benefits being racing in rain and wet conditions.
Slotted - Typically higher speed applications, creates alot of brake dust but in turn, removes debris from between pad and rotor, also, skins off burnt layers of pad.
Why higher end companies use cross drilled rotors typically is like I said, their rotors are normally larger than what they need (and you can see this if you just look at them) and also have added mass. Now when I said they were Cast like that, when you cast a rotor in a cross drilled manner, it reduces the risk of the rotor cracking GREATLY. But in turn, they're extremely expensive to buy cast. The other way to do it, is to drill the rotor which in turn, causes micro-cracks into the rotor, compromises its strength and integrity and all this other junk.
Buy cross drilled rotors if you really want, just remember you have to replace the mass you're losing and the only thing that you will really benefit from it is wet conditions braking (Higher end cars use them for this reason because they all want their cars to be sharp in every area).
Also, when people talk about gasses forming between the pad and rotor, this is only if you buy some craptastic pad. These days, there's little to no gas forming between the rotor and the pad. You can claim that you've felt it before, but I never have, and I doubt most people here have.
Gas between rotor/pad = Push down on brake, brake pedal is stiff but your not stopping
Fluid boiling = Pedal begins to feel mushy and starts sinking to the floor.
As far as the holes themselves cooling the rotor down, I have yet to see air willingly turn at a 90 degree angle to force itself through an extremely small hole. So that theory is out of the question. Like I said, it cools them down faster because the rotor has less mass, but with less mass also comes the fact that your going to heat the rotor up much faster also.
I always have to repeat myself twice or people won't follow me it seems
Typically you will see large cross drilled rotors on high end model cars for a few reasons.
1. The rotor itself, size, mass, amount of holes has been designed for the car.
2. Typically in high-end cars, the rotors are CAST this way, they are not actually drilled.
Now, when you design a brake system for cross drilled rotors, the rotors are typically going to be larger or have more mass to them, along with being cast, you can make it a very functional rotor all around.
Here's the added benefits to rotor types.
Blanks - Most area for pad to grab, typically the most mass, great for most types of racing.
Cross Drilled - Decreased Mass which means cools down faster, but also heats up faster, great benefits being racing in rain and wet conditions.
Slotted - Typically higher speed applications, creates alot of brake dust but in turn, removes debris from between pad and rotor, also, skins off burnt layers of pad.
Why higher end companies use cross drilled rotors typically is like I said, their rotors are normally larger than what they need (and you can see this if you just look at them) and also have added mass. Now when I said they were Cast like that, when you cast a rotor in a cross drilled manner, it reduces the risk of the rotor cracking GREATLY. But in turn, they're extremely expensive to buy cast. The other way to do it, is to drill the rotor which in turn, causes micro-cracks into the rotor, compromises its strength and integrity and all this other junk.
Buy cross drilled rotors if you really want, just remember you have to replace the mass you're losing and the only thing that you will really benefit from it is wet conditions braking (Higher end cars use them for this reason because they all want their cars to be sharp in every area).
Also, when people talk about gasses forming between the pad and rotor, this is only if you buy some craptastic pad. These days, there's little to no gas forming between the rotor and the pad. You can claim that you've felt it before, but I never have, and I doubt most people here have.
Gas between rotor/pad = Push down on brake, brake pedal is stiff but your not stopping
Fluid boiling = Pedal begins to feel mushy and starts sinking to the floor.
As far as the holes themselves cooling the rotor down, I have yet to see air willingly turn at a 90 degree angle to force itself through an extremely small hole. So that theory is out of the question. Like I said, it cools them down faster because the rotor has less mass, but with less mass also comes the fact that your going to heat the rotor up much faster also.
I always have to repeat myself twice or people won't follow me it seems
i agree with comptons
i mean seriously guys, this thread wasnt started for brakes but for the 5 lug. he doesnt even have to drill the rotors just get some with five dang holes. if you want 5 lugs for WHATEVER reason and can pay for it do it.
i mean seriously guys, this thread wasnt started for brakes but for the 5 lug. he doesnt even have to drill the rotors just get some with five dang holes. if you want 5 lugs for WHATEVER reason and can pay for it do it.



