GC coilovers making clunking sounds, help!
I've already tried searching, and I can't seem to find any other advice, other than to remove the shock dust boot. Anyhow, recently I had a mechanic install some GC coilovers w/ koni yellows into my 89 crx si. To make matters more complicated, I also had an itr rear lca and a rear disc conversion thrown in at the same time.
Shortly after the suspension was installed, i began to notice brief clunking, and/or metal rubbing sounds. I think it's coming from the front end of the car. It's gotten worse, and clunks a lot more frequently. It's almost unbearable to drive the crx now. the clunking occurs at all speeds, at the freeway, or on the street. It does sound a bit louder when driving on roughly paved roads.
What may possibly be the source of the problem? I was thinking maybe it was the stock dust boot being too long, or maybe the bumpstops getting loose, but i really have no idea other than that. Any help would be very much appreciated! TIA!
Shortly after the suspension was installed, i began to notice brief clunking, and/or metal rubbing sounds. I think it's coming from the front end of the car. It's gotten worse, and clunks a lot more frequently. It's almost unbearable to drive the crx now. the clunking occurs at all speeds, at the freeway, or on the street. It does sound a bit louder when driving on roughly paved roads.
What may possibly be the source of the problem? I was thinking maybe it was the stock dust boot being too long, or maybe the bumpstops getting loose, but i really have no idea other than that. Any help would be very much appreciated! TIA!
Thanks for the input!
Yes, I'll just get rid of the dust boots. I have a feeling that it may be at least part, if not all of the solution. If anything it'll eliminate another variable. I'll try to just rip it out later, and see if that improves things.
As for getting thicker o-rings, I think there's also a very good chance that may also be either part of the problem too. The sound could be coming from the sleeves rubbing/banging against the shocks. I purchased my GC/konis used, and the ones there could have been worn out.
Where would one get ahold of o-rings for the GC's? Is that something I can get ahold of at a basic auto or hardware store, or through GC directly?
Thanks again!
Yes, I'll just get rid of the dust boots. I have a feeling that it may be at least part, if not all of the solution. If anything it'll eliminate another variable. I'll try to just rip it out later, and see if that improves things.As for getting thicker o-rings, I think there's also a very good chance that may also be either part of the problem too. The sound could be coming from the sleeves rubbing/banging against the shocks. I purchased my GC/konis used, and the ones there could have been worn out.
Where would one get ahold of o-rings for the GC's? Is that something I can get ahold of at a basic auto or hardware store, or through GC directly?
Thanks again!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ronmcdon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where would one get ahold of o-rings for the GC's? Is that something I can get ahold of at a basic auto or hardware store, or through GC directly?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If the GCs were made specifically for the koni shocks then no o-rings are needed. If they are the standard GCs then make sure they're installed with adaptors and not on top of the stock-like perches.
If the GCs were made specifically for the koni shocks then no o-rings are needed. If they are the standard GCs then make sure they're installed with adaptors and not on top of the stock-like perches.
The GC coilovers I purchased were for koni yellows. I'm also running used koni yellows as well. I guess if the part was new, maybe fitament would be better, but i purchased the part used so there may be some wear & tear.
I'm going to check out the GC sleeves up front. I'm going to try an wiggle it around some to find out if they're loose.
I'm going to check out the GC sleeves up front. I'm going to try an wiggle it around some to find out if they're loose.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ronmcdon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm going to check out the GC sleeves up front. I'm going to try an wiggle it around some to find out if they're loose.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If they're loose then something is seriously wrong. I think you're barking up the wrong tree. Check your ball joints and tie rod ends while you're down there.
If they're loose then something is seriously wrong. I think you're barking up the wrong tree. Check your ball joints and tie rod ends while you're down there.
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lol, hopefully it's not something else that's damaged. Now that you mention it, the alignment does also feel a bit off. Those are good suggestions though! I'll check the balljoint and tierods as well.
im all for checking the condition of your suspension, but your problem of all that grinding and clunking noise is the dust boots for sure. just get rid of them.
it would certainly be a relief if the culprit was just the dust boots! I'll remove the dust boots first, then drive it around some to see the clunking goes away. If the prob still persists, I'll try to look into the sleeve and suspension parts.
Are the dust boots something I can simply cut off with a pair of scissors, or should I use other tools and/or take other precautions? Thanks again!
Are the dust boots something I can simply cut off with a pair of scissors, or should I use other tools and/or take other precautions? Thanks again!
no, youre going to have to disassemble the whole suspension to remove the dust boots.
if you need help, im in redondo. ill be free almost all weekend.
if you need help, im in redondo. ill be free almost all weekend.
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I'm having the same problem, but the noise comes from the rear passenger side and started when I had stock shocks with GCs and remains after changing to KYB AGXs.
If I get a warm enough day to pull those dust boots out, I will do something terrible to the one causing the problem.
If I get a warm enough day to pull those dust boots out, I will do something terrible to the one causing the problem.
In my Prelude, I followed the directions that came with the GC - basically cutting it until the length is 2" long. The dust boot essentially is no longer that, but rather just long enough to cover up the bump stops.
yah, so if you have to cut it so short that its really just covering the bumpstops... what good is it...
everyone should just chuck the dust boots when they install the ground controls.
everyone should just chuck the dust boots when they install the ground controls.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yah, so if you have to cut it so short that its really just covering the bumpstops... what good is it...
everyone should just chuck the dust boots when they install the ground controls.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You need the end of the dust boot that goes on top of the bump stop so that the lower top hat bushing doesn't push through. The closed end of the dust boot acts like a washer for the lower top hat bushing to sit on.
everyone should just chuck the dust boots when they install the ground controls.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You need the end of the dust boot that goes on top of the bump stop so that the lower top hat bushing doesn't push through. The closed end of the dust boot acts like a washer for the lower top hat bushing to sit on.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by seadonkeyraypiss »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You need the end of the dust boot that goes on top of the bump stop so that the lower top hat bushing doesn't push through. The closed end of the dust boot acts like a washer for the lower top hat bushing to sit on.</TD></TR></TABLE>what?
youre talking about the bumpstop plate. the funny thick washer thats nickel plated.
im talking about the thin metal dust cover that just gets in the way.
You need the end of the dust boot that goes on top of the bump stop so that the lower top hat bushing doesn't push through. The closed end of the dust boot acts like a washer for the lower top hat bushing to sit on.</TD></TR></TABLE>what?
youre talking about the bumpstop plate. the funny thick washer thats nickel plated.
im talking about the thin metal dust cover that just gets in the way.
Show a pic of the sleeve on the body & i'm pretty sure everyone here thats trying to help u will be able to!
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