well i just put on some da TEG front brakes and 91 prelude master cylinder and bled them and the peddle drops to the floor when i press it. am i missing any thing? parts i may need? help help i need my vtec back

 

you still have air in the system. Either that, or you have a leak/open in the system.

did you bench bleed the m/c first before bleeding the system?

 

no i did not bench bleed it. im gona try that i guess. the thing i cant figure out is why the stock m/c didnt pump the brakes up.

 

ok i did the bench bleed and it help a little. can someone tell me if the civic brake lines will cause this

 

 

help

 

brakes have nothing to do with vtec Bro

check yo_self

 

dude are u serious im saying i want to drive my car. i dont know about you but i dont want to go around hitting vtec with no brakes oh wate you dont have vtec you have a ls teg





Modified by 1QwIkEf at 4:30 AM 11/25/2005

 

Hey just bleed it some more. You are using the two-man method or gravity bleeding? The two man method works great to get air out of the system, and gravity bleeding is great when you don't ahve someone else there.

How much fluid have you bled yet? I usually go through 1-2 quart bottles when flushing the whole system.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=925064 - gravity bleeding is the way to go.

Remove your master cylinder, bench bleed it, reinstall it then gravity bleed the whole system. Patience is your friend here.

 

i have all ready used like 2 quarts of fluid.

 

The brake lines themselves will have no effect so long as they are sealed. I think you still have some air in the MC or something. I have the same system in my CRX and it works great. The MC might be from a year or two older Prelude but it is ikely stil the same part.

This may sound stupid but is there any chance you somehow got the calipers on the wrong side to the bleeder is on the bottom and thus could trap air? This is the only way I can think of to trap air in the caliper, otherwise it has to be the MC. Does it never build any pedal even when the engine is off, thus isolating out the power brake booster?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1QwIkEf &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have all ready used like 2 quarts of fluid.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Doesnt mean you're doing it properly.

 

ok. so then can you tell me how to bleed brakes the proper way

 

I posted a link, donkey.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The brake lines themselves will have no effect so long as they are sealed. I think you still have some air in the MC or something. I have the same system in my CRX and it works great. The MC might be from a year or two older Prelude but it is ikely stil the same part.

This may sound stupid but is there any chance you somehow got the calipers on the wrong side to the bleeder is on the bottom and thus could trap air? This is the only way I can think of to trap air in the caliper, otherwise it has to be the MC. Does it never build any pedal even when the engine is off, thus isolating out the power brake booster?</TD></TR></TABLE> yes it builds lots of pressure when the car is off but when i start it most of the peddle goes away. also if im not moving the pedal will be hard now.

 

 

help help

 

Posting on the internet wont help you go outside and bleed your brakes correctly.

 

ok thats cool. y dont you stay out of my post.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I posted a link, donkey.</TD></TR></TABLE> thank you for calling me A *** to buddy

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1QwIkEf &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok thats cool. y dont you stay out of my post.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I posted the solution to your problem. Getting air out of the brake system when its already there is a real motherf*cker, but there's a slow, painful, correct way to do it, or a few even slower, more painful, incorrect ways to do it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1QwIkEf &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> thank you for calling me A *** to buddy </TD></TR></TABLE>

eh? engrish?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">eh? engrish?</TD></TR></TABLE>
He is agreeing with you for calling him a Grade-A ***

 

Try bleeding the brakes with the car running. Always make sure the brake fluid reservoir stays above the minimum mark or it will just suck more air into the system. You absolutely MUST get all the air out of the system. Chances are one of your fittings for the brake lines that you disconnected, is not tightened all the way down. Make sure there are NO wet spots on any fitting you've messed with...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Posting on the internet wont help you go outside and bleed your brakes correctly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL