trailing arm compensator question
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From: NJ
trailing arm compensator question
Im currently doing a brake upgrade and I'm having issues getting off the rear trailing arm compensator. I've tried both bolts; the one connected to the trailing arm and the one connected to the subframe. I PB blasted it and tried both an air gun and breaker bar. Should I just break the bolt off on the trailing arm then grind it down or is there something I'm missing?
thanx in advance
- mike
thanx in advance
- mike
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 800
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Re: trailing arm compensator question (Sandals)
I recommend working on the CA/TA bolt, since removing the Frame/CA bolt will make it harder to re-align (unless the replacement TAs won't fit otherwise).
If this is your first day of PB'ing and Propane Torching it, I'd say try another day or 2. If you've been trying for many days now, then you'll likely have to drill/break/cut the bolt out...
If you haven't already tried... Hammertime! Get a small hammer and firmly knock the bolt head and the nut-end for the CA/TA bolt. In case the bushing has frozen to the bolt, give the bushing a good couple of knocks, as well as the CA itself from both sides. If you're concerned with damaging the bolt or other parts of your car, use a hard wood or soft metal block (or an old, cheap socket head) to cover your striking point. If there's not enough room, try to use a centerpunch or dull chisel to get the right spot. This will help the contact points break loose, as they may have developed rust.
Also, try 3-in-1. Try to get it down the bushing shaft, in any spaces between the bolt and the bushing shaft. 3-in-1 is good because it's cheap, you can get a lot of it into a little spot, and it soaks into rust. The bad thing is that you won't get as high inhaling the fumes.
If the bolts are rusted frozen to the bushing shafts, you should have another bushing and/or CA ready to install. If you do, then you can freely torch the bushing/bolt without much concern for damaging the bushing. Always be careful no matter what you try. PB + Propane Torch work great by themselves, but be careful when they enter the same room... B
M!!!
And if none of this works, it's time for a drill or dremel or saw or whatever... the bolt is anywhere from $4-6 brand new, and new CAs are anywhere from $18-25. I don't know if they sell the bushings individually.
GL, BC, and LUKHTG!
JasonGhostz
If this is your first day of PB'ing and Propane Torching it, I'd say try another day or 2. If you've been trying for many days now, then you'll likely have to drill/break/cut the bolt out...
If you haven't already tried... Hammertime! Get a small hammer and firmly knock the bolt head and the nut-end for the CA/TA bolt. In case the bushing has frozen to the bolt, give the bushing a good couple of knocks, as well as the CA itself from both sides. If you're concerned with damaging the bolt or other parts of your car, use a hard wood or soft metal block (or an old, cheap socket head) to cover your striking point. If there's not enough room, try to use a centerpunch or dull chisel to get the right spot. This will help the contact points break loose, as they may have developed rust.
Also, try 3-in-1. Try to get it down the bushing shaft, in any spaces between the bolt and the bushing shaft. 3-in-1 is good because it's cheap, you can get a lot of it into a little spot, and it soaks into rust. The bad thing is that you won't get as high inhaling the fumes.
If the bolts are rusted frozen to the bushing shafts, you should have another bushing and/or CA ready to install. If you do, then you can freely torch the bushing/bolt without much concern for damaging the bushing. Always be careful no matter what you try. PB + Propane Torch work great by themselves, but be careful when they enter the same room... B
M!!!And if none of this works, it's time for a drill or dremel or saw or whatever... the bolt is anywhere from $4-6 brand new, and new CAs are anywhere from $18-25. I don't know if they sell the bushings individually.
GL, BC, and LUKHTG!
JasonGhostz
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