Well i went to the track tonight for the first time since june.
2000 Civic Si Full interior. B16A2
June Mods
AEM V2 CAI, DC 4-2-1 Header, Exedy oragnic clutch and flywheel, Greddy Evo 2, Random Tech High Flow Cat. NGK wires. Si wheels with Dunlap Sport FM901 195/50. Ran a 15.20 @92-93ish.

Current Mods
Top Fuel Short Ram Intake, CTR intake cam, DC JDM 4-1 header 2.5" collector, omnipower test pipe, Greddy Evo 2, B&M FPR, Energy MMI's, Exedy clutch flywheel, NGK wires, Rota C8's 16x7 toyo proxes 4 205/45. Ran 15.22@88.9mph. 2.35 60ft, 9.8sec 1/8mi. this Track sucks a$s

wtf??? Timing????

 

Dang........ your dead on to your ET good for bracket racing.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SLOWFBP_EM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well i went to the track tonight for the first time since june.
2000 Civic Si Full interior. B16A2
June Mods
AEM V2 CAI, DC 4-2-1 Header, Exedy oragnic clutch and flywheel, Greddy Evo 2, Random Tech High Flow Cat. NGK wires. Si wheels with Dunlap Sport FM901 195/50. Ran a 15.20 @92-93ish.

Current Mods
Top Fuel Short Ram Intake, CTR intake cam, DC JDM 4-1 header 2.5" collector, omnipower test pipe, Greddy Evo 2, B&M FPR, Energy MMI's, Exedy clutch flywheel, NGK wires, Rota C8's 16x7 toyo proxes 4 205/45. Ran 15.22@88.9mph. 2.35 60ft, 9.8sec 1/8mi. this Track sucks a$s

wtf??? Timing???? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well you changed alot of things on your car, did you tune it at all after the mods?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SLOWFBP_EM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well i went to the track tonight for the first time since june.
2000 Civic Si Full interior. B16A2
June Mods
AEM V2 CAI, DC 4-2-1 Header, Exedy oragnic clutch and flywheel, Greddy Evo 2, Random Tech High Flow Cat. NGK wires. Si wheels with Dunlap Sport FM901 195/50. Ran a 15.20 @92-93ish.

Current Mods
Top Fuel Short Ram Intake, CTR intake cam, DC JDM 4-1 header 2.5" collector, omnipower test pipe, Greddy Evo 2, B&M FPR, Energy MMI's, Exedy clutch flywheel, NGK wires, Rota C8's 16x7 toyo proxes 4 205/45. Ran 15.22@88.9mph. 2.35 60ft, 9.8sec 1/8mi. this Track sucks a$s

wtf??? Timing???? </TD></TR></TABLE>

What were you expecting? You basicly changed a bunch of things to another brand or design which on paper you thought would be better. Either way you have a 2600lb B16 with a I/H/E, don't complain with a 15.2 that's a respectable time on street tires. The b&m fpr, plug wires, flywheel, and the cam untuned basicly does nothing for you.

 

i dont understand what your crying about. your trap speed is slower so your crying about it.

 

Your lower trap speed could have a little to do with your headers. 4-1 headers are for more lower end power and 4-2-1 are more top end power. So maybe now your getting more of a better start in the lower RPM's of your gears. Plus you upgraded to bigger rims which might be heavier and harder to pull.

 

i think you have it backwards 4-1 for top end 4-2-1 for low end.

 

looks like you probly had more tire spin in june.

 

also before i used to run my friends GSR with I/H/E. We would 20 and 40 rolls and i would pull on him every gear. Then now when we run its even for the most part but he pulls a little more than me. Now he has 16" Advan RG's too. They are pretty light. lighter than blades. I still had the c8's at the time minus motor mount inserts. I think it is the timing.





Modified by SLOWFBP_EM1 at 9:39 PM 11/20/2005

 

..

 

go get it tuned. try running a velocity stack/no headlight at the track. you also might want to look into a longer intake tube, that V2 was probably better than your current intake. try some different things on the dyno. you should be able to pick up 10+whp. fuel pressure, timing, plugs, oil, remove rear section, etc. take off your AC/PS belts if you have them. get an alignment. look for *free* power. runs some slicks, and get more seat time.

 

ever tune that FPR? cam?

i didnt see one thing about tuning.


you couldve kept your old parts, and spent $300 on tuning, and made maybe 5-10 more ponies.


more parts dont always mean faster. i learned the hard way.

ok, you might not have as many things to add to your "mod list".... but tuning is worth way more than bling.


still..... a low 15 with a 99 civic SI is a quick SI.

 

I haven't tuned it yet. Should i use my V-AFC???

 

you should be able to clean your fuel curve up pretty good with the regulator. you might pick up a few with the vafc, but go to a shop that is experienced. sometimes simple is better. if i were you i'd sell it and get some slicks.

 

great times
15.2 in a 2600 pounds car with a b16 i/h/e is a great time for what it is
now boost it and go for 13's

 

I'm keeping th EM1 all motor daily driven since it's paid off and i'm looking into an EG and going LS turbo.

 

I think you should be really happy with those numbers. The mods that you have made aren't going to get you tremendous HP gains. I've seen SI's running high 15's, low 16's with about the same mods.

 

Yeah seriously that's not that bad at all. I've seen worse, that's for sure.

 

Those are good time with a full Si and a handful of bolt on mods. Definitely spend some time on dyno and get the thing tuned, you will probably find some HP using the V-AFC.

We had a Type-R with I/H/E, Cold Air, Cam Gears, Skunk2 Stage 1 Cams and a V-AFC. After a about 3 hours of tweaking settings. The car put down 196 whp, don't remember TQ on a Dynojet 248, SAE Corrected. I was surprised it did that well

 

My shocks are pretty fvck3d up now. I'm going to install my kyb agx's tomorrow that should help my times out. i just want to hit 14.'s. this track that is close by is pretty shitty too. The nearest good track is at least 1 1/2 hrs away.

 

TUNE YOUR CAR. Ignition timing and fuel tuning will drop your times. Your lower trap shows that your either A) had waaay less wheel spin B) your clutch is slipping C) your car is making less power D) you forgot how to drive E) You left your friend in the trunk during the pass. We can immediately dismiss D and E. Then by the "assumptions"I made...I would take out A) and B) since you're familiar with your car and you would probably notice a torn up clutch. So I'm going to have to go with C) your car is making less power...

why? tuning. &lt;-- note the period. go get it tuned and let us know of your 14 second timeslip.

 

You swapped all these parts that would more drastically change the a:f ratio than the original bolt-ons, so your motors state of tune is totally out of whack. Just take it to a dyno and someone play with your vafc for and get the A:F dead on and you will be fine.

You can't put parts on without tuning and expect it to run better. I bet your car really is slower than before, so get it tuned and get your power back.

 

i'm with the guys on this...

there are 2 types of mods in my opionion

1- power band mods
These mods tend to add hp to your entire power band (4-2-1 header) , moderately sized exhaust, underdrive pulley, cold air intake...

so with each mod you get your hp bumped up say3-5hp from 1500 to close to redline...the OVERALL shape of your power curve pretty much looks like your stock curve shifted upwards... with this kind of a setup it's easier for your ecu to compensate for the mods ... (less so though if u have a map based ECU because you're messing with your VE and the ECU can't measure for that directly unlike air flow meter based cars) ... but in the end your entire power band is shifted up and so a simple fuel pressure increase will be good enough

2- rpm specific mods
cams , ram air intakes, 4-1 headers, BIG exhaust ...etc

these mods target a specific rpm, or a resonant peak... say all your mods now target the 4000-6000 rpm range

your hp curve is steeper now and no longer looks like stock ... assuming your ECU will compensate for mods you'll end up with a tune that is rich at low rpms and lean at high rpms... so you have some in between tune....and are missing some 10 hp up top, but u have good low rpm power (as the mods didn't screw your tune much there) and you still think that the mods did something because you spend 90% of your time in these low rpms....

tweaking your fpr in this case will fix leanness up top but leave you running VERY rich at lower rpms (killing your torque basically)

if you clean up the low end with the afc you'll find that you may have ganed 5-10 hp at peak, but there may be as much as 15-20hp in the midrange that you GOT BACK from fixing that .... you take a stock car and you make it pathetically slower (been there done that a few times)... and then when u tune it you realise just how much power and smoothness you were missing out on

edit: alot of people learn this the hard way... the magazines make you think life is plug and play...but unless you're using a tried and proven combination of mods that works well with your ECU going to need a tune

been there a few times with the celica (na and turbo)...been there with the vr4 ...and my cousin is in an even worse situation with a 2jzge (short ram intake, xerd header, greddy exhaust, pullies, cam gears, untuned safc) we clocked its 0-60 at 12 seconds ! ... this just gives you an idea of how bad things can get

-nuke

 

wow...10 mph off....what a drag...

 

Id say for those times you should be going alot better, with some good driving maybe 14's even. I had a b16 in MY da back in the day, Check out MY sig for some numbers, with two mods i was hitin 15.00