losing pressure when applying my brakes
i started noticing this about a month ago. after about 15 minutes of driving and i want to come to a stop, i press on the brake pedal. but then after i come to a stop i can continue to press the pedal all the way down to the bottom. it's not exactly "mushy." when i drive other cars the pedal stops at some point before the very bottom.
my brake fluid reservoir is full and i did recently do a brake fluid change. i would think that the brake bleeder blots are tight, otherwise i'd have no pressure when i press the brakes. i don't hear noise coming from my brakes so i don't think i need to change my brakes. i do notice a smell after driving usually.
does anyone have any idea what's going on? could it be my master brake cylinder?
do i need new brakes? brake lines?
it's a 94 GSR with 146,000 mi. thanks in advance.
my brake fluid reservoir is full and i did recently do a brake fluid change. i would think that the brake bleeder blots are tight, otherwise i'd have no pressure when i press the brakes. i don't hear noise coming from my brakes so i don't think i need to change my brakes. i do notice a smell after driving usually.
does anyone have any idea what's going on? could it be my master brake cylinder?
do i need new brakes? brake lines?
it's a 94 GSR with 146,000 mi. thanks in advance.
Bleed the brakes, there might be some air bubbles in the lines. As for the smell, maybe you have a sezied caliper, but im not really sure.
Ali
Ali
i did that before. i'm not sure if that was before or after i noticed this problem. i did do it on the van that same day and that car has no problems...so i assume i did it correctly.
hmmm..seized caliper....how do i "unseize" it?
hmmm..seized caliper....how do i "unseize" it?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pineapplemike »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">.so i assume i did it correctly.
hmmm..seized caliper....how do i "unseize" it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You would need to purchase a new caliper, if it really is seized, inspect your rotor fully. When you bled your brakes, did you bleed them in sequential order? With the first line being the furthest from the MC
hmmm..seized caliper....how do i "unseize" it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You would need to purchase a new caliper, if it really is seized, inspect your rotor fully. When you bled your brakes, did you bleed them in sequential order? With the first line being the furthest from the MC
how many miles should i get with a master brake cylinder?
how easy is it to replace, $ and time?
i was out of the country for about 2 years and the car didn't get driven. would this have anything to do with it?
how easy is it to replace, $ and time?
i was out of the country for about 2 years and the car didn't get driven. would this have anything to do with it?
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in most cases its your BMC, if youve tried bleeding your lines again and the problem persists i would suggest replacing the BMC, and dont go to the junk yard and purchase a used, always purchase a new one. you'll feel the difference. check and make sure your brake booster is up to par.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TopFuel+DC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> and dont go to the junk yard and purchase a used, always purchase a new one. you'll feel the difference. check and make sure your brake booster is up to par.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ive purchased a used one before and it works perfectly fine....but in my case I upgraded to the MC with a 1 stamp on it
Ive purchased a used one before and it works perfectly fine....but in my case I upgraded to the MC with a 1 stamp on it
i bled my brakes again. it was feeling good but i think the problem is coming back. i'll see how it is after driving it around a couple more days.
anyone know of good websites to buy a new BMC? thanks.
anyone know of good websites to buy a new BMC? thanks.
This has happened to two of my cars. It was the master cylinder both times. I just went out and bought them from advance auto parts. I've put plenty of miles on mine, prolly like 70000 miles on it, no probs. Cost like 35 bucks. Easy install too.
where did you get them for $35?
the cheapest i found was $189.
http://www.maximumautoparts.co....html
do i need a new brake booster?
the cheapest i found was $189.
http://www.maximumautoparts.co....html
do i need a new brake booster?
this happens to me right now on lile on flat ground or a large angle on little angles brakes hold fine but the pedal will sink to the floor and it wont hold the car and the car will roll what gives?
is this the one you bought? there are 4 of them listed on their website.
CARDONE 11-2700 1 YR $40.00 $88.03
http://autozone.com/servlet/Ui...ync=6
btw, what's core value?
CARDONE 11-2700 1 YR $40.00 $88.03
http://autozone.com/servlet/Ui...ync=6
btw, what's core value?
Yeah, that's pretty much what I got. The core value is the amount you have to pay along with the purchase of the part. Once you give them your old part, then they'll send you back the money for the core value
thanks a lot for the info. it seems like it should be easy to change out.
you wouldn't happen to know where i can find instructions to do it?
the cardone one looks like this right? bc the other one costs 2.5 times more.
you wouldn't happen to know where i can find instructions to do it?
the cardone one looks like this right? bc the other one costs 2.5 times more.
It costs more because it is brand new. These are remanufactured BMC's. They are old ones that have been rebuilt back to specs with new seals. They seem to be pretty good. Like I said, mine has lasted for awhile, and it's not showing any signs of weakness.



