Wierd tire wear; looks like camber but it's not!
I've been suffering this problem for awhile now.
Problem: the inner front right tire ONLY is wearing down faster than the rest of the tire and all other tires.
Facts:
- H&R spings, KYB AGX struts, '99 Si 15" rims, everything else is stock
- alignment was checked professional twice, 6 months apart, and both times alignment was within spec (camber, toe, castor)
- car has never been in an accident
- bushings are is reasonable shape and wheel cannot be jiggled by hand when car is raised
- wheels were balanced when tires were purchased, and rotating front/back revealed the same problem just on any tire/wheel located at the front right.
- in straight braking, the front right ABS activates very quickly (Brembo blanks and PBR metal masters) as it loses traction, but the front left does not
- front right pads never mated well and have rough patches
- prior to seeing this problem, when changing the front suspension, I discovered that the hub connected to the lower A arm and axle tends to want to be higher than the suspension assembley's mounting fork. So to align the holes for the connecting bolt, you have to push down on the hub some how... and my right side was SIGNIFICANTLY harder to push down than the left
PLEASE HELP ME, I can't figure out what is wrong and no mechanic has been able to identify it either.
Problem: the inner front right tire ONLY is wearing down faster than the rest of the tire and all other tires.
Facts:
- H&R spings, KYB AGX struts, '99 Si 15" rims, everything else is stock
- alignment was checked professional twice, 6 months apart, and both times alignment was within spec (camber, toe, castor)
- car has never been in an accident
- bushings are is reasonable shape and wheel cannot be jiggled by hand when car is raised
- wheels were balanced when tires were purchased, and rotating front/back revealed the same problem just on any tire/wheel located at the front right.
- in straight braking, the front right ABS activates very quickly (Brembo blanks and PBR metal masters) as it loses traction, but the front left does not
- front right pads never mated well and have rough patches
- prior to seeing this problem, when changing the front suspension, I discovered that the hub connected to the lower A arm and axle tends to want to be higher than the suspension assembley's mounting fork. So to align the holes for the connecting bolt, you have to push down on the hub some how... and my right side was SIGNIFICANTLY harder to push down than the left
PLEASE HELP ME, I can't figure out what is wrong and no mechanic has been able to identify it either.
Bumping because I am having the same problem with my 92 dx I cant figure it out
But im on Zeal Function 6 Coilovers with 99-00 si front suspension with 7in wide works
But im on Zeal Function 6 Coilovers with 99-00 si front suspension with 7in wide works
Looks like toe wear to me. There's a big difference between 'in spec' and 0. I had mine set within spec after I lowered it, and I started to get wear; got it down to 0, and it's been fine since.
Do you happen to have the specs of your alignment? It's weird that it's just one tire, so something may be bent...
Do you happen to have the specs of your alignment? It's weird that it's just one tire, so something may be bent...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chimchimm5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">- in straight braking, the front right ABS activates very quickly (Brembo blanks and PBR metal masters) as it loses traction, but the front left does not
- front right pads never mated well and have rough patches
- prior to seeing this problem, when changing the front suspension, I discovered that the hub connected to the lower A arm and axle tends to want to be higher than the suspension assembley's mounting fork. So to align the holes for the connecting bolt, you have to push down on the hub some how... and my right side was SIGNIFICANTLY harder to push down than the left.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So one or more suspension pieces is slightly bent, the pad mounting cradle is twisted or bent and perhaps you have a deformity in your hub that causes abnormal radial resonance at certain speeds. This is all a result of normal driving. Potholes and bumps in the road do significant damage over time: our cars aren't engineered for strength, after all
.
If it's not too quick of wear, I'd see if you could get an alignment place to experiment and maybe cancel out the suspension damage with some creative alignment options.
- front right pads never mated well and have rough patches
- prior to seeing this problem, when changing the front suspension, I discovered that the hub connected to the lower A arm and axle tends to want to be higher than the suspension assembley's mounting fork. So to align the holes for the connecting bolt, you have to push down on the hub some how... and my right side was SIGNIFICANTLY harder to push down than the left.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So one or more suspension pieces is slightly bent, the pad mounting cradle is twisted or bent and perhaps you have a deformity in your hub that causes abnormal radial resonance at certain speeds. This is all a result of normal driving. Potholes and bumps in the road do significant damage over time: our cars aren't engineered for strength, after all
.If it's not too quick of wear, I'd see if you could get an alignment place to experiment and maybe cancel out the suspension damage with some creative alignment options.
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i have a similiar problem on my 94 civic 4dr.
it shouldn't be toe. when toe is off, the steering wheel had to be turned to compensate, and both tires will wear evenly as they skid down the road. do you ride alone in the car alot? if so that will do it. when you get an alignment you're not in the car. when you sit down, depending how strong your springs are, they most likely compress. when your left front spring compresses, your camber turns negative, and this will wear a tire. i'm saying this based on what you've said, i can't tell good enough from the picture.
it shouldn't be toe. when toe is off, the steering wheel had to be turned to compensate, and both tires will wear evenly as they skid down the road. do you ride alone in the car alot? if so that will do it. when you get an alignment you're not in the car. when you sit down, depending how strong your springs are, they most likely compress. when your left front spring compresses, your camber turns negative, and this will wear a tire. i'm saying this based on what you've said, i can't tell good enough from the picture.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92accordexpower »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> the steering wheel had to be turned to compensate, and both tires will wear evenly as they skid down the road. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Not necessarily. If he bent something (which I suspect, since only one tire is wearing) he could have his tires look like this | / when looking down on them. So one tire is pointed down the road, and the other is at a continual slip angle, which is how toe causes wear.
If your steering wheel is turned, but the car drives straight and you have even tire wear, that is called thrust angle. This is when toe is set correct at each axle, but not with respect to each other or the centerline of the car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92accordexpower »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> when you get an alignment you're not in the car. when you sit down, depending how strong your springs are, they most likely compress. when your left front spring compresses, your camber turns negative, and this will wear a tire. i'm saying this based on what you've said, i can't tell good enough from the picture.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's just not true, otherwise nobody would have tires that wear evenly.
Not necessarily. If he bent something (which I suspect, since only one tire is wearing) he could have his tires look like this | / when looking down on them. So one tire is pointed down the road, and the other is at a continual slip angle, which is how toe causes wear.
If your steering wheel is turned, but the car drives straight and you have even tire wear, that is called thrust angle. This is when toe is set correct at each axle, but not with respect to each other or the centerline of the car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92accordexpower »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> when you get an alignment you're not in the car. when you sit down, depending how strong your springs are, they most likely compress. when your left front spring compresses, your camber turns negative, and this will wear a tire. i'm saying this based on what you've said, i can't tell good enough from the picture.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's just not true, otherwise nobody would have tires that wear evenly.
just out of curiousity, are your lower plastics or fender linings rubbing on your tire during movement? on my friend's SC300 turbo, he has Supra brakes inside some 18 inch Volks and a Vertex body kit. He had the same wear as you have and couldn't figure it out. I looked under the car after jacking it up and noticed there was a splash cover that COULD move at high speeds...so i bent it as far as i could and sure enough, contact. just an idea...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by littleredcivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just out of curiousity, are your lower plastics or fender linings rubbing on your tire during movement? on my friend's SC300 turbo, he has Supra brakes inside some 18 inch Volks and a Vertex body kit. He had the same wear as you have and couldn't figure it out. I looked under the car after jacking it up and noticed there was a splash cover that COULD move at high speeds...so i bent it as far as i could and sure enough, contact. just an idea...</TD></TR></TABLE>
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