I am doing ITR brake conversion for my GS-R. I got my ITR calipers in today, and going to get some disc from Fastbrakes. Now, i have read the post from the other helpful member that i should shave 3 mm off the bracket. But has anyone tried using a spacer instead? How does that work out? Thanks in advance!

 

bump

 

bump again...

 

I'm not really 11 inches, but close to 8 or so......oh are we talking about brakes?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Toadfart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not really 11 inches, but close to 8 or so......oh are we talking about brakes?</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmm... that was stupid..

I dunno if you need, or could even use this, but heres a guide
http://www.gs-r.com/phpBB2/vie...68172
I would suggest just trying the spacers, and if they dont work, shave them off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Toadfart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not really 11 inches, but close to 8 or so......oh are we talking about brakes?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Size doesn't matter as long as you know how to use it properly.....
Eeven with a smaller size, you can still get the job done
(I am talking about the brakes that is)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gogogomoveit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am doing ITR brake conversion for my GS-R. I got my ITR calipers in today, and going to get some disc from Fastbrakes. Now, i have read the post from the other helpful member that i should shave 3 mm off the bracket. But has anyone tried using a spacer instead? How does that work out? Thanks in advance!</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've been advised that a machine shop can make a 3mm spacer that will sit between the rotor and hub. It does not need to be a perfect circle or anything, just as long as it will space the rotor 3mm.

But after weighing out both options, Grabbing an angle grinder and shaving off the 3mm from the brackets. 20 mins or so worth of

 

I've seen spacers that will fit, but I can't remember who makes them. They weren't expensive either.

 

i am more concerned about if shaving off bracket will significantly weakens the bracket. if not, i dont mind shaving.

 

man, your 8 incher is too small, wont cut it.. jk

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gogogomoveit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am more concerned about if shaving off bracket will significantly weakens the bracket. if not, i dont mind shaving.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It will not. Shaving off 3mm is not much in relation to the actual thickness of the bracket. You need to shave that small amount to assure your caliper clears the inner part of the wheel when spinning. I'm doing the conversion myself and grinded less than 4 mm but a tad more than 3mm. On the test fit with oem rotor mounted, itr caliper and bracket, I spun the wheel freely with no problems what so ever.

I opted to run this route because I was sketchy about running into issues if the rotor screws did not thread into place enough to hold. Those rotor hold down screws are small to begin with, so I felt 3mm less metal on the bracket wouldn't be nearly as nerve wrecking.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gogogomoveit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am doing ITR brake conversion for my GS-R. I got my ITR calipers in today, and going to get some disc from Fastbrakes. Now, i have read the post from the other helpful member that i should shave 3 mm off the bracket. But has anyone tried using a spacer instead? How does that work out? Thanks in advance!</TD></TR></TABLE>

If it's the 2 piece rotor, then you shouldnt have to. The 2 piece from what I remember before was designed to space out the rotor enough to clear the ITR calipers. But if you just get the redrilled rotor, then yeah, you need to shave 3mm off. I think the place that sells the spacers is Prestige. I have them bookmarkes somewhere. I'll try to find it and let you know.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by emissionsux &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If it's the 2 piece rotor, then you shouldnt have to. The 2 piece from what I remember before was designed to space out the rotor enough to clear the ITR calipers. But if you just get the redrilled rotor, then yeah, you need to shave 3mm off. I think the place that sells the spacers is Prestige. I have them bookmarkes somewhere. I'll try to find it and let you know. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I think the only company that makes 2 piece rotor in this size is stoptech. Their two piece rotors are 450 a pair. steep price.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnjoyTheRideDC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It will not. Shaving off 3mm is not much in relation to the actual thickness of the bracket. You need to shave that small amount to assure your caliper clears the inner part of the wheel when spinning. I'm doing the conversion myself and grinded less than 4 mm but a tad more than 3mm. On the test fit with oem rotor mounted, itr caliper and bracket, I spun the wheel freely with no problems what so ever.

I opted to run this route because I was sketchy about running into issues if the rotor screws did not thread into place enough to hold. Those rotor hold down screws are small to begin with, so I felt 3mm less metal on the bracket wouldn't be nearly as nerve wrecking.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Forgive me if that sounds dumb, how about getting a slightly longer screw?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gogogomoveit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am more concerned about if shaving off bracket will significantly weakens the bracket. if not, i dont mind shaving.</TD></TR></TABLE>

THe part of the braket that needs to be shaved is raised anyway. I doubt that machining that are weakened the bracket. MY setup is on page 3.

How to: 11 inch brakes on 3rd gen

You need to shave 2mm from the bracket.

 

all i see is shaving and 8 inches

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gogogomoveit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Forgive me if that sounds dumb, how about getting a slightly longer screw?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Because you're not looking to extend the length of a bolt anywhere...

In the upgrade, you're either trying to push the rotor 3mm out from the hub or bring the caliper 3mm in. So a longer screw would not do anything for you in this situation

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Toadfart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not really 11 inches, but close to 8 or so......oh are we talking about brakes?</TD></TR></TABLE>

.........

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gogogomoveit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I think the only company that makes 2 piece rotor in this size is stoptech. Their two piece rotors are 450 a pair. steep price.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, Fastbrakes still makes the 2 piece rotor...you need to ask then for it. It's a little pricey though...Shaving the caliper is when you are using OEM redrilled rotors.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=659063

 

Its 4mm off the part of the calper bracket that meets the knuckle.. trust me, I did the conversion my self.






Make shure a good machine shop does the work on your caliper.. and you can just have them redrill type r or prelude rotors to 4x100

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sumyungguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its 4mm off the part of the calper bracket that meets the knuckle.. trust me, I did the conversion my self.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's 2mm that needs to be removed from the caliper bracket, especially if you machine this from the knuckle mating surface. This is not a trial and error conclusion. I suggest you look at this link to examine the 2mm dimensional difference between the non-ITR integra (45mm total height) and the Prelude or ITR (47mm total height) rotors.

http://www.dba.com.au/DBASTDseries_cat.pdf (Look under Honda for the Integra and Prelude.)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sumyungguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make shure a good machine shop does the work on your caliper.. and you can just have them redrill type r or prelude rotors to 4x100</TD></TR></TABLE>

Use the 4x114.3mm Prelude rotors. You cannot redrill a 5x114.3mm pattern to a 4x100mm pattern without overlapping holes.

 

redrilling rotors safe? Just thinking about the possibilites of the machinst mishandling the rotors.

 

redrlling rotors is 100% safe

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's 2mm that needs to be removed from the caliper bracket, especially if you machine this from the knuckle mating surface. This is not a trial and error conclusion. I suggest you look at this link to examine the 2mm dimensional difference between the non-ITR integra (45mm total height) and the Prelude or ITR (47mm total height) rotors.

http://www.dba.com.au/DBASTDseries_cat.pdf (Look under Honda for the Integra and Prelude.) </TD></TR></TABLE>

3mm is what I shaved off the caliper bracket and it slipped in fine. I think 4 mm is too far of an offset when lined up with the rotor .

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Use the 4x114.3mm Prelude rotors. You cannot redrill a 5x114.3mm pattern to a 4x100mm pattern without overlapping holes.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Very true. But Overlapping holes does not make the brake system any weaker, just looks janky when your wheel is taken off. If you cant find a machine shop to re-drill your rotors, check out fastbrakes.com. They sell their OEM style re-drilled rotors for about 90 bucks a pair, and have drilled/slotted ones available too for an additional cost.