Just curious of why I don't see any stick welds ever produced.

NOTE: I do not fab car parts, so maybe stick welding is not the best, I don't know. I am a pipewelder, so that's all I use. Just curious.

 

Stick welding is GREAT! Been working for many many years. The part of it is...nowadays, MIG is the easiest to actually learn on. That being said, most people are taught on MIG and I dont think most look back at stick, but rather look forward at TIG. Another thing is appearance. Unfortunately in the car world...all the car guys want to "pretty" looking welds so stick isnt the method of choice.
Kyle

 

Pretty welds? I'll throw the slick on today and take some pics. Stick welds can be beautiful.

 

yeah they can but it takes alot more time and effort


and it is looked apon as a old technoligy now when i went to IWS they never said any thing about stick lol only tig and mig but i have been doing stick for like a year but never got any good

 

My first exposure to welding was through arc. I got good at it and prefered arc over mig untill I bought my own mig set up for home.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G2turbo_terror &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My first exposure to welding was through arc. I got good at it and prefered arc over mig untill I bought my own mig set up for home.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Same here. Had a 50yr old stick before anything else.

 

Have fun trying to stick weld a cage or something in tight spaces where you have to cut your rod down and throw a new one on every 2" of bead. For welding up some I-beams or something outside stick has quite a few benefits but absolutely nothing that I can think of for automotive applications.

 

i was about to say the same thing since im a pipefiter/welder and all i ever worked with was stick

 

stick welders have no place in autofab work.

they're for building bridges

 

bah.. I just stick welded my stainless exhaust setup. Welded up some 16ga from kteller to some mild flanges and **** and welded in the resonator. Stick works just fine. I've never mig/tig welded so stick is all I know.

 

I learned with a stick machine, I thought it was a pretty nice machine, nice welds... then I got a TIG. No comparison.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jerseydevil &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bah.. I just stick welded my stainless exhaust setup. Welded up some 16ga from kteller to some mild flanges and **** and welded in the resonator. Stick works just fine. I've never mig/tig welded so stick is all I know.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ignorance is what... how does that saying go again?

 

MIG is the easiest in auto fab, TIG is nicest, but ya, stick you suck underneath a car trying to fab a Downpie or exhuast going over a LCA!!!

 

i did my intake with the stick before i had the mig and it sucked lol but with the mig my full exhaust took less time

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeLust &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pretty welds? I'll throw the slick on today and take some pics. Stick welds can be beautiful.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd like to see some beautiful stick welds. Can't say that I ever have.

 

I believe Carroll Smith said it best "A few words on arc welding: The stick welder is very useful when the truck or trailer breaks. It is also useful on stock cars. It has no place at all on race cars."

 

ARC, much longer, messier process. Also the gauge of material we used are too thin to stick weld. It can be done, but its just not worth the time and effort. Mig welding is 4x faster then arc. I like stick welding because it has very deep penetrations. I can post some good pictures of some passes using a arc welder. Also another old method of welding that is slowly fading away is Oxy-acetylene (torch) welding. I bet %70 of HT members can't even set a neutral flame or even know that oxy-acetylene can weld aluminum and SS+ much other material... Its good to know, incase you ever need to weld certain material together without a tig welder or if you wanna fuse 2 different type of material(using brass).

 

The biggest problem with stick welding is the splatter but the beads my buddy laid were fabulous. I wish I could have gotten some pics of my friend's stick welding when I was in the Corps. This guy is a welding GOD(MIG, TIG, ARC, Oxy Ace,....). His stick welds are absolutely beautiful. I had been stick welding for a couple years and he showed me a lot of tricks. The most common mistake when ARC welding is incorrect electrode choice.

He spent 22 years in the USMC and 21 of those years were spent welding, repairing or fabricating parts.

That being said, I prefer MIG or TIG welds

 

Heres some I did tonight.

This one was welded with a 6010 electrode. You must use a whipping method in order to weld with this rod. It came out pretty good, very hard stick to weld with so I'm happy with these few passes.



7024 A easy rod to weld with, butt joint and a puddle.

 

Wow the 7024 rod is nice. I think all I have in my shop is 6013 and maybe a few other odds ands ends. But the moisture has probably gotten to all of them and they are shot now.

I have seen some awsome Ocy Ace welding. Makes some really nice peices if doe right, but can be a slow procees and take quite a bit of practice.

 

I've seen some absolutely amazing stick welding on big *** stainless steel pipe flanges. Like absolutely perfect bead the whole way around a 12" diameter flange.

Most the guys welding where I work have been doing it for 25+ years though, they all say it takes a while to get that good.

From the little I know, it seems like it'd be a PITA to try to stick weld on the thin stuff you tend to see on a car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Goal_Kar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You must use a whipping method in order to weld with this rod.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Whoever told you that doesn't know what he's talking about. Whipping is usually only used on thinner materials and doing vertical welds with E6010. Whipping is totally pointless and has no benefits [only disadvantages (lack of penetration)] over a stringer bead on thicker materials.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by backpurge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whoever told you that doesn't know what he's talking about. Whipping is usually only used on thinner materials and doing vertical welds with E6010. Whipping is totally pointless and has no benefits [only disadvantages (lack of penetration)] over a stringer bead on thicker materials.</TD></TR></TABLE>
He may be in the same boat as I am, where he's taking classes on welding and the instructor may not have explained the whole principle behind what he tells students to do. That 6010 rod is for lighter work, you're right, but welding on that thick of material he definitely needs to whip it for better penetration. The instructor (if there is one, or whoever it was that he learned that method from) may also want him to learn the method horizontally before advancing to vertical, too.

Goal_Kar, have you tried 7018 rod yet? It lays a bead as good, if not better, than the 7024. The slag is a lot nicer too as it looks almost like glass and peals off most of the bead for you within a minute or so as the metal cools. Definitely my favorite rod I've worked with so far at my night classes.

 

stick welding is done for strength mostly. also you can weld alot thicker material and get good penetration with stick. but when it comes to the most versatile and well rounded welder you want to go for a mig

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by backpurge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have fun trying to stick weld a cage or something in tight spaces where you have to cut your rod down and throw a new one on every 2" of bead. .</TD></TR></TABLE>
you can remove the flux and use the rest of it silly