Working on replacing the steering rack, couple of questions (four 640x480 pics)
Car is an 89 LS coupe auto with power steering and no SRS.
There is a hose with an orange band on the end disconnected in this pic... where does it go?
Does it connect to the nipple on the dust boot here?
Does removing the power steering fluid lines require a special tool or just bending the wrist in a way it does not bend?
Does that retaining bracket where the 4 lines are held together come off together with the rack or can I leave the lines attached to it because it might bolt down to the new rack?
Thing is driving me nuts.
There is a hose with an orange band on the end disconnected in this pic... where does it go?
Does it connect to the nipple on the dust boot here?
Does removing the power steering fluid lines require a special tool or just bending the wrist in a way it does not bend?
Does that retaining bracket where the 4 lines are held together come off together with the rack or can I leave the lines attached to it because it might bolt down to the new rack?
Thing is driving me nuts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thaiphob »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">buy a new car. would be more cost effictive than replacing it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How do you figure? I bought the car for $400, put in $1,500+ in parts alone but the rack only costs $188 including tax...
How do you figure? I bought the car for $400, put in $1,500+ in parts alone but the rack only costs $188 including tax...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KraZEtEggIE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">......2000 would buy you a nicer 2nd gen......</TD></TR></TABLE>
Which would need at the very least ball joints, outer tie rods, rotors/pads and other minor things that have to be replaced with age (windshield wipers, headlights, etc.) So spending $2,000 on a car only to fix things I've already fixed on this one would be counterproductive as far as cost effectiveness is concerned.
Which would need at the very least ball joints, outer tie rods, rotors/pads and other minor things that have to be replaced with age (windshield wipers, headlights, etc.) So spending $2,000 on a car only to fix things I've already fixed on this one would be counterproductive as far as cost effectiveness is concerned.
you might need to take the bolts out and move the whole rack to get the lines off. not too sure tho. it should come off with a normal metric wrench. either 10 or 12 depending on which line.
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Okay, a normal 10mm wrench will not work, it has to be a closed wrench otherwise it will strip the nut. If you are not sure what a closed wrench is, it is a wrench which hold the entire nut except 1 or 2 sides of it, where as a normal one just holds two sides.
I would most defintly spray some brake cleaner around there before you start working, will make things alot cleaner and esaier, here is a link I made regarding the removal ect..
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=618601
Good luck, it is very simple to perform. If you have any other questions let me know, and as far as that spare hose, I would go to Acura and get a diagram of the power steering rack and see what it looks like, then compare
Yes that hose plugs onto the nipple you have pictured. And thats not an orange band thats rust 
Dont listen to these idiots that tell you to give up and replace the car. Thats what people say when they are ignorant about a problem.

Dont listen to these idiots that tell you to give up and replace the car. Thats what people say when they are ignorant about a problem.
go to sears or another auto parts store, you need a closed wrench, it allows you to remove those nuts without stripping them.(as the others have said) make sure you mark the hoses and which holes they go to etc, it might be difficult to figure it out.
ALSO, get some degreaser, and clean the entire area, it might seem redundant, but it will ease things. I dont know what your using to lift the car up, but im assuming that your on the ground..you have to realize that when you remove this, it will be coming down on you, do you want to be covered in all of that grime??
ALSO, get some degreaser, and clean the entire area, it might seem redundant, but it will ease things. I dont know what your using to lift the car up, but im assuming that your on the ground..you have to realize that when you remove this, it will be coming down on you, do you want to be covered in all of that grime??
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Code Blue »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go to sears or another auto parts store, you need a closed wrench, it allows you to remove those nuts without stripping them.(as the others have said) make sure you mark the hoses and which holes they go to etc, it might be difficult to figure it out.
ALSO, get some degreaser, and clean the entire area, it might seem redundant, but it will ease things. I dont know what your using to lift the car up, but im assuming that your on the ground..you have to realize that when you remove this, it will be coming down on you, do you want to be covered in all of that grime??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its what I already stated!!
ALSO, get some degreaser, and clean the entire area, it might seem redundant, but it will ease things. I dont know what your using to lift the car up, but im assuming that your on the ground..you have to realize that when you remove this, it will be coming down on you, do you want to be covered in all of that grime??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its what I already stated!!
Now that's what I'm talking about, quality answers + discussion.
Moving on... is a closed wrench similar to a crow's foot like this?
Also, that bracket that the four lines are seemingly clamped down in seen below with the hose resting on it.... does that open and let the lines out like some spark plug wires are sometimes bundled with or do the lines have to be straightened and pulled out of it or how does that thing release?
One last thing, Arsenal, I saw your write-up when I searched... I'm just reasking to make sure I've got it right... wish more people had really clear write-ups like you put together.
Moving on... is a closed wrench similar to a crow's foot like this?
Also, that bracket that the four lines are seemingly clamped down in seen below with the hose resting on it.... does that open and let the lines out like some spark plug wires are sometimes bundled with or do the lines have to be straightened and pulled out of it or how does that thing release?
One last thing, Arsenal, I saw your write-up when I searched... I'm just reasking to make sure I've got it right... wish more people had really clear write-ups like you put together.
Not a problem, just trying to help.
To be honest, its probably easier dropping the unit itself. Ie. take the lines out of the pump and unit, so that they are actually attached to the rack, then remove the rack with the lines still on it.
It would be alot easier to work on and around.
And yes that picture is a closed wrench like you need.
As far as the other picture it is hard to tell, thats why it is easier to take out as a unit.
To be honest, its probably easier dropping the unit itself. Ie. take the lines out of the pump and unit, so that they are actually attached to the rack, then remove the rack with the lines still on it.
It would be alot easier to work on and around.
And yes that picture is a closed wrench like you need.
As far as the other picture it is hard to tell, thats why it is easier to take out as a unit.
Latest update, I didn't need the crow's feet wrenches to get the nuts off... so far. The one line that uses a smaller nut closest to the passenger side just needs you to bend your wrist the way a wrist isn't meant to bend.
Also, the big bracket looking thing that holds the 4 lines next to one another in one of my pics is actually a metal brace that sits over 4 rubber "sections" with each gap between the rubber pieces being a place for the metal line. Take out the bolt with a 10mm socket and voila, metal brace comes off and lines can be pulled out.
Also, the big bracket looking thing that holds the 4 lines next to one another in one of my pics is actually a metal brace that sits over 4 rubber "sections" with each gap between the rubber pieces being a place for the metal line. Take out the bolt with a 10mm socket and voila, metal brace comes off and lines can be pulled out.
Good job. If you just follow that link I gave you it should be all you need to take it out now.
Just remember to undo the subframe a little bit, not all the way off as it can be a pain line-ing it back up.
Just remember to undo the subframe a little bit, not all the way off as it can be a pain line-ing it back up.
OK, rack's done, and yes... lining stuff up SUCKS! Thanks for all your help everyone.
Modified by Axle at 4:20 PM 11/20/2005
Modified by Axle at 4:20 PM 11/20/2005
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