hey guys...i had made a thread maybe about a week and 1/2 ago... about how i was riding skunk2 springs on blown stock shocks on my 95 hatch...

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1422781 ...

...and replaced it w/ a new gc/koni setup that still felt similar to what i was riding on prior the change...
even with the new setup, it often felt like my car was gonna bottom out, my car would make just much too much noise going over big bumps and potholes in the road, granted eg Cx's are rattleboxes to begin with but stilll....i mean cmon their koni's... n my old shocks were blown, it should be better than it is right?...well ive been foolin around w/ the firm/soft ride settings with the **** and that has helped slightly...

i also raised the car from its originally "dumped" setting on the gc's, which they were admittedly basically all the way down...i raised it about 1/2 way up originally, a few days ago, n then today jus did it again, this time as high as i could to give the shock as much travel as possible...

...the ride is still kinda ***...im gonna fool around w/ the **** setting some more in a few, but i managed to get pictures of the koni/gc's on my car...could you guys look at the pics for me on the off chance that maybe somethin is wrong w/ the setup itself? or mayb the installation was done incorrectly?( i doubt it)...and it can cosmetically be seen...maybe im just an idiot, idk, but ineed help either way...

...whenever i hit a pothole, even the smallest ones, it feels like my dashboard, along w/ the rest of my car is about to come apart, and my glove compartment is constantly rattlin and makin noise...is that specifically due to mayb a clip inside braking? or will bad suspension do that to a car?

*Never mind the date, camera needs to be reset


...one last thing which u guys can see in the pics....i raised the gc's as much as i could, with the impression that if i wanted to i would be able to raise the gold adjuster part i guess you can call it, all the way to the top if preferred, but i cant, it will only go about the 1/2 to 3/4 of the way up the burgandy tower...before it stops being able to go up, and the springs are hitting the top...is that normal? why is that? and could that be the reason i cant raise it anymore, and why it makes that noise n the shocks hit the bumpstops? my car just makes way too much noise and i really dont kno why...help...

*This was with the setting about 1/2 way up,i made an attempt to raise it more, but from this point , it will only go up about another 3 to 4 complete rotations, far from the top of the tower...


and

 

I see the pics of suspension on ur car.. I think you install the wrong setup.. The GC sleeve suppose to sit on the Koni O ring. NOt the silver shiny spring hat. Take the spring hat off and use the GC sleeve sitting on the O ring.. And test drive it to see how is the ride comfy?

 

See there is no silver hat.. The GC sleeve sit on the Koni YEllow O ring..

 

what are your spring rates? progressive or linear?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by z6 coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what are your spring rates? progressive or linear?</TD></TR></TABLE>

GC uses linear rated Eibach 'ERS' springs.

and to the OP, if those are the GC 'baby' sleeves, than you have it installed incorrectly. The gc specific sleeves rest directly on the circlip on the shock body. No need for the lower spring 'cup.'

 

first of all, you should install the sleeves correctly, like others have pointed out.

secondly, im kinda thinking your problem is more along the lines of worn out bushings , steering rack, and balljoints. you should grab a fist full of tie rod and knuckle and wheels and start shaking things, trying to find play. have a friend help you out by moving the steering wheel back and forth and feeling for play in the wheels or tie rods. lift the wheel and see if theres play in the balljoints. i bet you got a lot of play in that stuff, especially if youve been riding dumped on stiff *** skunk2 springs.

and if you really wanted a comfortable ride, you should have just gotten something like eibach prokits. they are pretty capable on the streets and keep you grinning on the track.

 

I understand what you guys are saying, for the most part, that that big metal cup lookin thing doesnt need to be there...i just have one question, in my continuing efforts to pinpoint the problem, i was looking over the koni install thread stickied here i nthe forum
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1106020
and towards the end of the install, the guy also shows a pic w /a similar metal cup on the bottom...so...did he do it wrong too? or can you use it?...or what?...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by QualityMaterial &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I understand what you guys are saying, for the most part, that that big metal cup lookin thing doesnt need to be there...i just have one question, in my continuing efforts to pinpoint the problem, i was looking over the koni install thread stickied here i nthe forum
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1106020
and towards the end of the install, the guy also shows a pic w /a similar metal cup on the bottom...so...did he do it wrong too? or can you use it?...or what?...</TD></TR></TABLE>

RJ used the stock springs. the ground control sleeves are designed to rest directly on the koni snap ring. Do you have the proper sleeves/adapter to use properly on your Koni's?

Also, everything Tyson said you should do. eg's are old now and usually neglected, so you could have some worn out parts other than shocks

 

u n00b. u shoulda jus told me to do it i had koni yellows lol and i only live like 3-4 block away from u anyways i hope u get it done right.

 

At the risk of jumping on the bandwagon, get rid of the chrome perches like the others have said. The chrome stock shaped perches are for use with stock shaped spring tails. If you are using a threaded sleeve, do not use the stock shaped perch at all as you are inviting potential failure. This has been covered a number of places on this forum. Make sure that your sleeves fit over and capture the circlip in the shock body and do not sit on top of an exposed circlip.

What you describe in having difficulty in moving the spring perch higher on the threaded sleeve is called preload. The length and the higher rates of the springs can require greater effort and likely a spring compressor to change the spring perch locations and the preload beyond a certain point Welcome to the world of performance springs where a number of variables like rates, lengths and ride heights start intermingling and you can't always accomplish everything with every spring.

I am not good at deciphering the Eibach part numbers printed on the springs. Maybe someone else can see the spring rates. Shock valving adjustment is a fine tuning situation. Your Koni shock is twice as firm at the maximum setting as it is at the minimum setting, the largest adjustment range in the industry. If you are not able to use the valving adjustment to get the ride quality you are looking for, you will need to look upstream at other things that can alter ride quality like the spring rates, worn or failed parts as others have mentioned need to be checked, low compliance tires, etc. Without driving your car on your roads, it is very hard for us to refine your car for your preferences. Maybe you are simply stiffer sprung for the roads you drive on to get the ride quality that you are looking for. Lots of variables in there including a greatly subjective "acceptable ride quality".

I can tell you that I greatly doubt that your shock will need to be over about 1 turn of adjustment to get an improved ride quality. both under and over damping can give a negative ride quality but worn parts or an off-target spring rate will do it even quicker.