why is it a must? i mean i could see it helping when putting on the head because it will be aligned better but come on for 115 its not worth it.

 

accuracy and if you need to pull the head off again they are reusable, plus I think you're over $50 for new OEM ones anyway....sooo why not

 

headlifting issues are with stock head studs. arp head studs won't allow your head to lift.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18 CYA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">headlifting issues are with stock head studs. arp head studs won't allow your head to lift.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes he is correct

(just because every response on HT needs ten people to confirm..if there are only 9 it isn't true..sry!)

 

what do you mean headlifting. if the head is torqued to spec then this shouldnt matter. why cant i use my old head bolts?

 

stock head studs can stretch

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by the.hamburglar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do you mean headlifting. if the head is torqued to spec then this shouldnt matter. why cant i use my old head bolts?</TD></TR></TABLE>
because stock headbolts will lose their tensile strength after being torqued then loosened and retorqued and so on. ARP stuff is the shizna.

 

oh ok, what does the head need to be torqued to? seemed like alot because it was rank to get off

 

I know for B series VTEC heads you torque the stock head bolts in steps up to 63 lb/ft or 61 lb/ft for B16a's and 90-93 Tegs. ARP head studs have a spec sheet that says how much you torque them down to depending on what kind of lube you use. IIRC when you use the ARP moly lube the spec sheet says 70 or 75 lb/ft, I forget. And if you are using motor oil to lube your ARP head studs the torque spec is a little higher.

EDIT: I think it's worth it to get ARP studs since you can re-use them 3 maybe 4 times. Stock headbolts you can use them once, but anymore after that and it's risky. The ARP studs are stronger and dont stretch as much when you torque them down, which is why you can use them more then once.

 

just get the damn studs, trust us

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LoSt is BlaCk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just get the damn studs, trust us </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LoSt is BlaCk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just get the damn studs, trust us </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I have heard from engine builders that arp are not as good as aebs .I belive aebs have stronger bolts . and also I think d-sport lifted the head on a b-16 with arp headstuds.then they went with aebs

 

stock head BOLTS = will stretch under head and stress of a high hp application

arp head STUDS = are studs, are forged. WILL NOT STRETCH, and thereby, will not allow the head to lift

if your serious, you use arp

 

arp vs aebs????? same price

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by the.hamburglar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">arp vs aebs????? same price</TD></TR></TABLE>

either one will work good........arp has been around much longer so i would sooner trust them over aebs

 

Time and Time again. ARP's have been used. I have never had a problem with them. They do not stretch like OEM bolts and can be re-used.

 

again, I have seen arps let the head come off the block on the d-sport b-16 with a good tune. and a good engine builder I know in Va told me that the aebs are better ...I dont know why but he has built like 500 honda engine of all different kinds.


Innovative AEBS dimple head and main stud fasteners utilize stress neutralizer ends, which are used on IRL, F1 racing engines. The dimple design preloads all the threads of the stud on all the threads on the block. The dimple bottoms out first rather than bottoming out the thread of the stud. Our studs are also 5 percent bigger than the competition. This translates into a precise torque spec on head and main studs. Ultimately it provides better holding of the cylinder head to the block and of the main caps to the block!

AEBS B16A Pro-Spec Head Stud Kit $180
AEBS B16A Pro-Spec Main Stud Kit $140
AEBS B18C Pro-Spec Head Stud Kit $180
AEBS B18C Pro-Spec Main Stud Kit $140




Modified by built4cubanlynxx at 4:57 PM 11/12/2005

 

Sounds like someone tightened the studs into the block


ARP's are tried and true.

I have personally never used AEBS studs. I wouldn't doubt the quality. They make some good stuff.

 

i would get arp over the aebs...simply because arp has been around much longer and i expect them to stay for a while...aebs never knows if they are staying in biz or filing for chapter 11, LOL!! all arp does is performance hardware...think about it for a minute...

 

When you tighten a bolt it warps the surface it's pulling down against. A stud and nut don't do the same thing, at least not to the same degree.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Studs also provide more accurate and consistent torque loading. Here’s why. When you use bolts to secure the head, the fastener is actually being “twisted” while it’s being torqued to the proper reading. Accordingly, the bolt is reacting to two different forces simultaneously. A stud should be installed in a “relaxed” mode—never crank it in tightly using a jammed nut. If everything is right, the stud should be installed finger tight. Then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch only on the vertical axis. Remember, an undercut shorter stud will have a rate similar to a longer, standard shank stud. This provides a more even clamping force on the head. Because the head gasket will compress upon initial torquing, make sure studs and bolts are re-torqued after the engine has been run. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Golden eagle head studs