Like the title says, I'm planning on converting over to the dark side, but I'd like to know what current parts I could take with me along the way. I'm looking to make 400whp on pump and 500+/-whp on race gas. I'm sure you guys have never heard that before...

My current setup is: 93 CX hatch
96 GSR engine,
JDM p30 pistons,
micropolished/balanced crank,
shot peaned GSR rods,
ARP rod bolts,
ARP head studs,
Crower 63403 cams,
AEM cam gears,
Portflow inner springs w/ type-R yellow outers,
portflow ti-retainers,
portflow ported head,
sk2 IM port matched to 66mm,
hondata IM gasket,
Erick's 68mm TB,
sk2 p28 ecu w/Erick's program,
v-afc,
invidia exhaust,
98 JDM itr tranny w/lsd & 4.785 final drive
ran a 12.72@105mph a couple years back, but has since become my daily driver. shooting for mid 10s now with the daily driver option in place.

I'm planning to swap out the P30s for a set of forged (insert brand) 9:1 pistons and probably go 81.5mm on stock sleeves. I'm trying to save money on this conversion overall and don't think sleeving the block is necessary with my power goals. how strong are GSR shot peened rods? Is it worth it to replace them with some crowers/eagle... etc?

Obviously I'll have to swap out my 403 cams, but I'm not sure which ones to swap to. I'm thinking GSR/Type-R, maybe trade someone on here , but that will be a different thread of course. What can I salvage from my head that I currently have?

The engine currently has about 50k miles on it and burns a little oil. What else should be taken care of? new valves?

To handle my thirst for boost, I'm looking at the 'Full Race' stage 2 GT kit with the GT30R snail. I think I should be able to reach my power goals with that... no?

For engine management, I haven't decided yet either, but definately not sticking with what I got... lol

TIA!!

 

ptht

 

The gt30 would easily be able to overwhelm the GSR rods, I'd say 350whp as the safety limit. There are quite a few 300-350whp vtec B18's and B16's with bone stock bottoms.

You don't necessarily need to swap out that cam, but it wouldn't hurt going to ctr profiles. I know off hand that the b18b guys can make more power with the 404 '3/4 race NA' cams rather than the 402 turbo cams. I'd suggest getting rods instead of the cam - or at least making rods the next upgrade. $300 for eagles on an already opened motor, you can't go wrong.

 

I've never heard of anyone using 403s for turbo. I thought the duration was too long for boost.. Am I mistaken?

 

change the rods and pistons for sure.
also change the cams because there will be too much overlap.
81.5mm bore is fine for stock sleeves.
gt30r is perfect.

 

should I replace anything else in the valvetrain considering the engine has some miles on it 50-60k?

 

valvetrain should still be good since it's portflow. so just grab some gsr or itr cams, and rev to 9500 all day

 

head is good, but bottom end needs work....

 

Definitely get forged rods and pistons for that horsepower. I am not familiar with the cam setup so someone else with experience needs to give input. I would think the 81.5mm bore would handle that as well. So many people on here have done that. Good luck with the build. And take your time on the piston ring gaps!

 

The GSC motorsports car made some filthy power with big cams - Jun 2's on the intake and S2S1's on the exhaust IIRC. Stick with the 403's, and absolutely run a set of forged rods.

 

i just converted my all motor to turbo also. just pistons and rods. i used web cams duration is 265 not really bad for turbo car.

 

Never knew I could use all motor cams for turbo! Sounds sick if I can get it tuned correctly! I'm gonna ask Dr. Charles about that though. The specs on these cams are: Intake, 12.04mm lift, 267@1mm duration... and Exhaust 11.84mm lift, 257@1mm

The intake cam has more duration and lift then Jun type IIIs! (12.0mm 265.3@1mm). The jun III exhaust cam has less lift but more duration (11.5mm, 265.3@1mm).

trucdoken- what setup are you running on boost and where did you get it tuned?

 

That's a good bit of duration, but everyone seems to be afraid of it on here. Duration is directly related to how high the motor is going to make power. More duration is not magically going to kill off power, it's just going to shift it higher in the powerband, just like with a N/A car.

 

How will I know if there's too much overlap? For turbo shouldn't there be more exhaust duration so the intake charge can be as pure as possible?

 

You'll know there's too much overlap when it makes more power by dialing out some overlap All the custom ground turbo cams I've seen from Cammotion and Ed Curtis favour the intake side over the exhaust side, take that for what it's worth. Obviously some overlap helps, look at how the GSC car picked up a solid 90 WHP and power across the band as low as 5000 RPM's with some massive cams compared to Skunk2 "turbo" cams.

 

Well, you got me sold on the idea. I'm gonna give it a shot

 

which a/r should I go with on the 30R? I'm thinking 82, but I don't want my powerband to be too high. I'm currently reving to 9k on my setup, but I'd like to bring it down some... (8.5ish) How much power will I compromise if I go with a smaller a/r?