I just went and bought brake pads for the front. They cost $49.99 ...

They are "Raybestos" OEM stye ... if that helps.

Is this price too high? It seemed a little expensive so I have not opened them, and kept the receipt. I can return them if I need to.

 

20 views and no one knows how much brake pads cost?

Here is the link:

http://www.raybestos.com/quietstop.htm

Should I keep these or go on to JCWhitney.com and try and find something cheaper?

 

that's a little expensive.. $50 can get you a set of AEM front pads

 

Ok thanks ... **** is going back. Stupid Pep Boys.

 

We have found that the "best" pad in terms of wear rate, stopping power, dust, noise, and rotor friendliness is the Axxis Ultimate, which is available for the GS-R for $62.85. It is a bit more than AEM or other type pads, but the performance is much better in all categories. The Axxis Ultimate is appropriate for aggressive street, auto-x, and light track use. It can be heat cycled up to 1000F, and has a Cf of approximately 0.45mu. Honda-Tech members receive a 10% discount on Axxis Ultimate pads.

With Best Regards,

Andie Lin

 

i think that is about right.. however for a little more $... maybe $10-15.. you can get Hawk HPS (this is what i got) or Axxis Ultimates or EBC's...

 

I suggest you take a look at Carbotech.

The more I read about them, the better they sound.

I paid $100 for my front pads from Porterfield. They squeal when hot or very cold, but are good otherwise.

I suggest you not think of buying EBC pads.

 

Andie ...

You wouldn't happen to know where I could pick up some of those, would you?


[Modified by 95GS-R, 7:02 PM 3/11/2002]

 

Oh and another question ... I need to get the rotors turned. How much of a pain in the *** is it to take of rotors on a 7 year old car?

 

Spend $15-20 for an impact driver and $28 EA. at Coletti motorsport for new Brembo blanks, unless you want to do the same job in 6 months or so.

Rotor should be machined on the car, per Honda recommendations.


[Modified by bps2799, 8:23 PM 3/11/2002]

 

We sell the Axxis Ultimate. Used to carry EBC a year ago, but dropped that product line as the test results were not very good. For Brembo OE rotors, we sell those too, but I think you'll find a better price at Colletti, as someone here mentioned.

-Andie

 

i just ordered a set of EBC front and rear pads (greenstuff) plus a set of front EBC grooved rotors..they got good results on tests in the Uk and europe, would i be better to cancel the order and go with brembo?

 

Porterfield R4S would be my first choice.

Axxis have bad cold stopping power..

AEM are as good as a stock replacement pad...they don't add much over a stock pad.

Buy either Porterfield...hawk..or endless depending on your budget



[Modified by Interlude, 4:49 PM 3/11/2002]

 

The Axxis model we sell is the Axxis ULTIMATE...this is NOT the same pad as the infamous METALMASTER.

Thus, your comment about "Axxis have bad cold stopping power" is NOT applicable to the Axxis ULTIMATE pad we sell.

-Andie

 

I wore out a set of EBC pads in 6000 km, and they sounded awful.

Buy something else -- go w/ Brembo. Does Brembo make pads, in addition to rotors, calipers?

As for the tests, Nobody seems to know how they did so well w/o making a payoff to the magazines doing the tests.

 

The EBC Green stops fairly well, but the wear rates are, as pointed out here, atrocious. We had them on an Integra test vehicle, and they wore down to the backing plates in 2 months with just regular street miles (under 30miles per day).

In any case, our testing has shown the Axxis Ultimate to be as close to a perfect street/auto-x pad as possible. The Hawk HP Plus has slightly greater initial bite, so if the best possible street/auto-x performance is what you want, then use the HP Plus; just be forewarned that the HP Plus will tend to squeal and be very dusty, as well as be more rotor aggressive than the Axxis Ultimate.

-Andie

 

Just 6 months? Wow ... I hadn't realized that the blanks were that maintenance intensive. My wheel is shaking BAD right now. I am scared to brake at full power, which is really hampering my driving style. I read in my el-cheapo Haynes manual that an imact hammer was a good idea for knocking some screws on the front of the rotor loose ... I hope it goes smooth.

 

carbotechandie: i was wondering what method you recommend for breaking in brakes... Thank you in advance for your response.

 

The implication was that you would have to change your old rotors, after being turned, in about 6 months, b/c whatever warped your old rotors at their current thickness would only be exacerbated by thinner rotors.

However, there is some debate about warped rotors 99 times of 100 being improper bedding of pads and A) uneven transfer of pad material to rotor, or B) uneven heating of rotor, causing hard spots that wear differently than the rest of the rotor. Either way you get an uneven surface and brake shudder. Best thing to do w/ old rotors is to give them a non-directional scuff.

Anyhow, spend the dough for new rotors. Go to Carbotech's website and read about how to bed in the pads.

Additional recommendations:

Save the old shims off the car and use Honda spec brake grease (molykote M77) in generous quantities when you put the pads on, back of pad and both sides of shims.

Clean any grease from rotor w/ brake cleaner.


Duh, if any of this was obvious to you already.

 

Impact hammer worked on all of them except one. Murphy's Law. I had to visit a friend to have the last one drilled out. I don't know what they're made of but they're soft so be careful not to strip them.


-allen

 

grrr ... don't say that. I have a habit of messing things up. I stripped the timing belt tensioner on my car when I installed the ITR Intake Cam

We shall hope this goes more smoothly.

BPS: Thanks for all of the advice ... there were a could of things that you said that I didn't consider.

 

yeah dont make the mistake i did. .and use that cheap blue permatex stuff... the brakes squeaked pretty badly.. get the stuff that bps lists...

i got my rotor screws out w/ an impact driver ($20 at sears).. you hammer it and the tip turns.. it wasnt that hard.. i didnt run into problems..

get some lube for your caliper pins and bolts too so that they dont seize/stick...
and make note to where the shims and brake clips/pins go on the pad...

i got my rotors are Colletti Motorsports also for $28/ea + $10 ship..but another H-T member found them for even cheaper at http://www.performancemotorcars.com.. they were $32/ea w/ free shipping on orders over $50...

other than that u shouldnt run into any other problems.. its pretty straightforward.. bolt off old.. bolt on new..

 

Hawk
i run the hawk hp plus. They are good for street and do wonders for auto cross!

Great pads!!! but lots and lots of dust

 

i ordered the axxis ultimate front pads and oem rear pads and plan to install them myself (first time doing a pad install). i saw the molykote M77 referenced in the helm manual. can i get this at the dealer? or somewhere else cheaper? the install looks fairly straightforward... take off wheel, remove a couple bolts, flip up caliper, take out old pad and then the reverse.

how does bedding work? i didn't see it on the carbotech website, but i probably didn't look hard enough.

anything else i should be aware of, or keep in mind while doing the install?

thanks for your help,
phil

 

I've just "borrowed" my molykote, but I'd do a Google search and try calling some parts stores as well as a Honda dealer.

Try Carbotech's FAQ or technical sections for the bedding in process.

This usually involves making 50-10MPH stops about a half dozen or more times in a row, so the brakes smell bad (= HOT). They may sound funny too (Woosh Woosh sound), but this goes away IF you drive for 15 minutes or so, avoiding braking and never coming to a complete stop (do this out of town, away from annoying stoplights).

Repeat the procedure after cool down, cool down again and let it sit 4 hours to overnight.


Don't set the parking brake afterwards, either (or any time the brakes were "warmed" up), just use the transmission to hold the car (unless you live on a hill).


[Modified by bps2799, 3:31 PM 3/12/2002]