...that I HATE the coat hanger method of timing belt adjustment!

and you all thought I was gonna bitch and complain about the forum

sorry for the OT post

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...that I HATE the coat hanger method of timing belt adjustment!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

ha it does suck....but it does work...

 

I broke the spring doing that... sorry totsie. That was the first time I had to use that method.

 

yeah first tonight I got the hanger all bent up and couldnt get it out. then I broke the spring. oh well, dont need it anyway lol

 

If we had the proper tools, the coat hanger method would have been avoided. The belt just would not tension, and I did not have an impact wrench there to use or the tool to hold the crank pulley, so I could not remove the crank pulley and lower timing belt cover to address the issue. I thought about taking my air tools, but where I was heading there was no air compressor & tank, and mine would not fit in my car.

 

Is this coat hanger method needed for aftermarket cams or something? Does the spring wear out or something??

Maybe it was just cause I had a new tensioner and spring, but I had no problem loosening the tesioner bolt and turning the belt 3 teeth back to tighten it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr Pooface &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is this coat hanger method needed for aftermarket cams or something? Does the spring wear out or something??

Maybe it was just cause I had a new tensioner and spring, but I had no problem loosening the tesioner bolt and turning the belt 3 teeth back to tighten it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Same, never heard of it. Did my timing belt over the summer with no problems.

 

i normally use a long screwdriver and push the tensioner up but not too hard and tighten the 14mm up...i once thought of the hanger theory but never attempted to do it as i thought it would never work. i never thought anyone would use that idea. i guess it sucks..lol

 

It works well - it's just hard to get it just right without doing it a couple of times to set the tension perfect.

This is of course because the lower timing cover is a PITA... think of the worst game of drunk operation you've ever played...

BEST = remove pulley, remove lower timing cover, put crank bolt back in there, and rotate and use a big flathead screwdriver under the tensioner to push it up and get the proper tension.

 

or in the case of Dr Pooface - place your motor on your kitchen table while adjusting the tensioner.

 

Ha! At least I had my engine on an engine stand when I did this, inmy kitchen The big flat screwdriver trick is SO much better than the coathanger btw.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...that I HATE the coat hanger method of timing belt adjustment!

and you all thought I was gonna bitch and complain about the forum

sorry for the OT post</TD></TR></TABLE> you mean by pulling up on the spring? with a stock belt, this wouldnt be nessesary. a few tech's that i know say that there should be about an inch of play on the tensioner side. if this was an aftermarket belt you are talking about then ide get a new spring/tensioner. ..thats my .02

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...that I HATE the coat hanger method of timing belt adjustment!

and you all thought I was gonna bitch and complain about the forum

sorry for the OT post</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually I thought you'd bitch about others bitching

This thread title won't help with searches.. tisk tisk

 

Yes I know it's not necessary with only OEM parts, but when you have Toda C cams and a Power Enterprise blue belt on a talldeck block then things are different, and I do have a new tensioner as well. I had to use a screwdriver to tension the belt properly.

 

basically I found it easier to just remove the spring anyway since its not really doing its job and just getting in the way.

and for those wondering, yes Im aware of why you should/shouldnt use this method and I need to use it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pondus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes I know it's not necessary with only OEM parts, but when you have Toda C cams and a Power Enterprise blue belt on a talldeck block then things are different, and I do have a new tensioner as well. I had to use a screwdriver to tension the belt properly.</TD></TR></TABLE> agreed