http://www.emracing.com to check out their site.

The main reason i'm asking this, is because i'm thinking about going with the triangular trunk set up pictured here for my 95 civic coupe.


The total set up will come out to be around 480 according to their prices before shipping, but i'm really not too worried about the price at this point.

Are there any other companies that have similar products that are equal or better to this? If so, please provide a link. I've never really heard of anyone usuing emracing parts before, but it appears to be good quality. That's why I came here to ask.

and i did a search but the whole "em" thing is short and it only showed up finds for RACING, and that's not too much help.

Thanks for the replies and help


Modified by slimstajimsta5 at 12:02 AM 11/10/2005

 

"I stiffen your chassis and jdm *****..."

 

hahaha, well i didn't even know they were JDM(if they were) that doesn't matter to me though, i just want quality bars

 

so is all i can get for information here some stiffness comment?

this is the suspension forum, and i'm actually talking about something performance wise rather than a thread that says "are my springs adjustable?" and i don't get any help...

 

you're not getting anything from the suspension forum because you're not going to be getting anything from those barz. Maybe try the appearance forum.

 

Well, if we bypass the argument about whether STB's ever help, then we'll come to the point that those bars have heim joints.

Which are not stiff. In fact, they purposely allow movement!

 

If I ever spend $500 dollars on strut tower braces, I want you guys to kill me!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BA5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, if we bypass the argument about whether STB's ever help, then we'll come to the point that those bars have heim joints.

Which are not stiff. In fact, they purposely allow movement!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah.

I thought that the EM Racing bars were just for bling?...

Does your trunk REALLY flex back there when you corner hard?

I think a good front/rear sway bar setup with quality coilovers are just about all you need.

 

ok, wow. this is why i, for the most part, have started to despise honda-tech. Can you people make a post with out throwing out your one-sided opinion on them. I don't care what you thought something was, i want facts. Sure, they might be for bling, but if they work well, then i'm all for it.

and for the STB's working... after i put my skunk2 front/rear on, it helped alot as far as turning responce went.

and also, if you think they're for bling or don't work well, can you point me into the direction of some bars like that, that will work well.

 

Most people don't believe in bars helping with handleing that much. Dollar for dollar, your money is much better spent somewhere else. For that high a price you could buy a set of koni sports, mabey a set of adjustable racing sway bars, or some super sticky tires. All of which will make a HUGE difference in the handling performance of the vehicle...

Tie bars so popular (and expensive) because people can see them & show them off at shows & meets. They are mostley for looks and they deffinently add to the overall aperance of the vehicle. With that in mind, I would recomend just getting the ones that look the coolest to you. Any one design of a trunk brace isn't gonna be noticably better than the other...

(just trying to be more helpful)...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I ever spend $500 dollars on strut tower braces, I want you guys to kill me! </TD></TR></TABLE>

I will beat you to death w/ the bars.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Most people don't believe in bars helping with handleing that much. Dollar for dollar, your money is much better spent somewhere else. For that high a price you could buy a set of koni sports, mabey a set of adjustable racing sway bars, or some super sticky tires. All of which will make a HUGE difference in the handling performance of the vehicle...

(just trying to be more helpful)...</TD></TR></TABLE>

QFT

I'm sure the bars work [to some extent] to make the chassis a sitffer, but that money is better spent on other things that would make a much bigger difference than those bars ever would. On [fwd] hondas, springs, dampers, and sway bars are going to make the biggest difference, along with tires, and fresh/new suspension bushings, and an alignment/corner balance.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slimstajimsta5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, wow. this is why i, for the most part, have started to despise honda-tech. Can you people make a post with out throwing out your one-sided opinion on them. I don't care what you thought something was, i want facts. Sure, they might be for bling, but if they work well, then i'm all for it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry but I thought you posted because you want opinions. I guess you only want to hear what you want to hear.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slimstajimsta5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
and for the STB's working... after i put my skunk2 front/rear on, it helped alot as far as turning responce went.

and also, if you think they're for bling or don't work well, can you point me into the direction of some bars like that, that will work well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Barz don't work well. So no, I can't point you in any direction. If you want to spend $500 on bling it's you money, just don't come here expecting us to be impressed or to hear us say they're going to make your car handle better.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slimstajimsta5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, wow. this is why i, for the most part, have started to despise honda-tech. Can you people make a post with out throwing out your one-sided opinion on them. I don't care what you thought something was, i want facts. Sure, they might be for bling, but if they work well, then i'm all for it.

and for the STB's working... after i put my skunk2 front/rear on, it helped alot as far as turning responce went.

and also, if you think they're for bling or don't work well, can you point me into the direction of some bars like that, that will work well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've never gotten to write this before, but here goes:

You asked what people think, and they told you. Don't be mad because they didn't tell you that it's going to make your car pull 2 g's.

Actually, I'm one of the few believers in STB's. However, you can't have heim joints on one!! It defeats the whole purpose!!

So basically, if it has those joints on it, then it is just for bling, not for go.

Moreover, it appears that those bars are made out of aluminum. I've seen and pushed on enough aluminum STB's to know that a bar of that thickness are about as stiff as cooked spaghetti.

So to answer your initial question: We gauruntee you that you will not see any real performance increase. However, it does look kinda cool, so it does have that going for it.

 

Ok, well what i meant by opinions, was well informed opinions. I didn't realize i'd have to make that clear.

and BA5, that was exactly the kind of opinion i was looking for, thank you sir. Do you know of any other alternatives that work well?

and i'm not too worried about the price or if something else helps more than another part to an extent. I've finally decided that i want to go basically all out with my car's suspension at this time

righht now, what i have works very well, but i'm ready to step it up a little bit with better stuff..

for those that care i have:
tokico illumina struts
ground control coilovers
skunk2 front camber kit
skunk2 front/rear strut bars
spoon lower tie bar
SPC rear lower control arms
also riding on 205/40/16 Parada spec-2's

uninstalled i have a pair of S/T swaybars, and the ES hyperflex suspension bushings

I would like, within the next year,
get Tein Type Flex coilovers,
a better front strut bar(thinking about the passwordjdm triangular one or one with that design),
better rear strut bar set up,
c-pillar bar, and i'm thinking about changing my mind with a different swaybar/lower tie-bar set up.

What would you all recommend(informed opinions) if i was going to turn this into a fun/competitive car on a roadcourse/autocross?


Modified by slimstajimsta5 at 11:13 PM 11/10/2005


Modified by slimstajimsta5 at 11:14 PM 11/10/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slimstajimsta5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I would like, within the next year,

a better front strut bar will not help
better rear strut bar set up, will not help
c-pillar bar will not help

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Get your anti-roll bars on, corner weigh the car and hit the track.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecvoodoo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Get your anti-roll bars on, corner weigh the car and hit the track.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats not the answer he wanted so he isn't gona listen

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slimstajimsta5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What would you all recommend(informed opinions) if i was going to turn this into a fun/competitive car on a roadcourse/autocross?


Modified by slimstajimsta5 at 11:13 PM 11/10/2005


Modified by slimstajimsta5 at 11:14 PM 11/10/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

What I would reccomend, and probably what many others would reccomend is:

Ground Control Coilovers, your choice of rates depends on what you want
Ground Control 'tophats'
Koni Yellow sport shocks/dampers
ASR/Comptech rear sway bar/integrated tiebar/subframe reinforcement system
Fresh, new bushigns all around, NOT poly. Go with oem rubber ones, except for the swaybars. Many of the bushings will not benefit from poly, and can actually hinder the natural movement of the suspension, therefore putting back the ability of the suspension not only to work as desgined, but to work to its full potential. ABout the only thing i would reccomend for some of the bushings is to go spherical or get delrin.
A good alignment
A good corner balance
Good sticky tires
Good brake pads
Good brake fluid
and plenty of seat time/track time

The Koni/GC has been a proven setup by many competetive racers, who by the way, ranke quite highly in their sanctions. It has utmost flexibilty in choosing spring rates and lengths, the dampers are readily rebuildable.

Also, get rid of those SPC rear lower arms, it reduces your rear track width, not good. The oem ones are absolutley fine. About the only aftermarket Rear LCAs that anyone on here will reccomend is the Function7 ones.

Finally, if you want somethign that will stiffen up the chassis more so than any 'bar' could, get a full cage installed. Note: stiffening the chassis is not the same as stiffening the suspension.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisw85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Finally, if you want somethign that will stiffen up the chassis more so than any 'bar' could, get a full cage installed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly my thoughts, especially since you said you want a car for road course. You will have to give up your back seat; and a full cage is not a good idea for a car that is daily driven on the streets, but a race roll bar is fine. And a race roll bar will probably cost about the same or less than the $480 you would spend on this triangular bling with heim joints.

checkhere: http://www.ioportracing.com

But if you want a competitive road race autocross car, spend money on participating in events. Get out there and drive as much as possible and make the driver competent and therefore competitive.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slimstajimsta5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, wow. this is why i, for the most part, have started to despise honda-tech. Can you people make a post with out throwing out your one-sided opinion on them. I don't care what you thought something was, i want facts. Sure, they might be for bling, but if they work well, then i'm all for it.

and for the STB's working... after i put my skunk2 front/rear on, it helped alot as far as turning responce went.

and also, if you think they're for bling or don't work well, can you point me into the direction of some bars like that, that will work well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

fact: they are really dumb and don't really do anything. if they are only bling, then how can they work well? fitment? listen to these guys and don't waste your money on something that will get you laughed at, or get "wow those look cool".

if not, i know a guy selling an APC roll bar. it is for show only. it offers no safety whatsoever. it's blue. cool blue.

don't get offended. what if i asked about neon tire valve caps and everyone laughed at me? exactly. please don't be another ricer with a blingy dc tie bar and purple control arms.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecvoodoo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get your anti-roll bars on, corner weigh the car and hit the track.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what i've decided to do. I bought the bars after being misinformed about them fitting my car. It's the set for 94-01 integras and 92-95civic ex/si... mine is a DX so the front LCA's are different and the front won't work. I"m in the process of getting new LCA's for the front so i can go ahead and put the bars on, then work from there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vitt1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Exactly my thoughts, especially since you said you want a car for road course. You will have to give up your back seat; and a full cage is not a good idea for a car that is daily driven on the streets, but a race roll bar is fine. And a race roll bar will probably cost about the same or less than the $480 you would spend on this triangular bling with heim joints.

checkhere: http://www.ioportracing.com

But if you want a competitive road race autocross car, spend money on participating in events. Get out there and drive as much as possible and make the driver competent and therefore competitive.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea, now that yall are backing what you're sayign with information, i find that alot better than how it was before, and i do appreciate that. I don't care about my backseat, as i run two sparco sprint seats so i can't really use the backseat anyways.. i just don't feel right putting a rollbar or cage in my car at this time while i still have a stock D-series you know? maybe at a later point with more track time, i would consider it.

quick question, do you think the ASR lower tie bar is more effective than the spoon one i have. After looking at it, the asr one looks as if it would work better and beef it up more. i want to be as cautious as i can about tearing my subframe
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XDEep &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fact: they are really dumb and don't really do anything. if they are only bling, then how can they work well? fitment? listen to these guys and don't waste your money on something that will get you laughed at, or get "wow those look cool".

if not, i know a guy selling an APC roll bar. it is for show only. it offers no safety whatsoever. it's blue. cool blue.

don't get offended. what if i asked about neon tire valve caps and everyone laughed at me? exactly. please don't be another ricer with a blingy dc tie bar and purple control arms. </TD></TR></TABLE>
So you think the only things taht work well, are the ones that don't have a class look to them? I'm sorry if you have a problem with me wanting to have a product that works well, while wanting it to still look good. Do you know people that have mugen mf10's and what not because they look good AND are of good quality? I doubt it

 

the topic is those bars. they suck. they don't brace well, and they are bracing non-critical points. just like c-pillar bars. exaggerated claims. and they cost the same as a real roll bar, which saves your life + stiffens the heck out of your chassis as well. this info was already out there, that's why you didn't get a deep and long conversational thread. you got laughs.

we laughed, examples were given, and now you know better. now we can leave the rice behind yay.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XDEep &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">we laughed, examples were given, and now you know better. now we can leave the rice behind yay. </TD></TR></TABLE>

...oh my, sounds like we have a significant break through...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vitt1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...oh my, sounds like we have a significant break through...</TD></TR></TABLE>

i admit, i used to have a dark, ricey past. yellows and neons still haunt me..

 

That's right, because all ricers want nothing but shiny bars that are hidden inside their trunks and are hardly seen.