If you geniuses could make a list of things to do to get my engine prepped for turbo, like # 1 being most important 2,3,4,5, and so on. And if you could put the best brand name and the avg installation cost. Also what turbo should i get revhard, drag, or fmax. I want it to be very reliable thats my main concern. Also I want to run 8-9 psi daily and 13-14 on track....is that safe if not what is? Another thing I want in my turbo is a loud swoosh, so bov is important!! lol. I want to run 12's so if you guys could me me a setup that would make my above statements possible please help me ....FAST. Thanks, oh also what do i have to do with the Atts, I have read all the threads but none of them give a final answer on what to do.

 

with 200hp already there id consider a JRSC instead..with the standard 6lb boost kit ull be getting around 280 hp out of it with minor mods to the motor..and with the 8lbs kit ull be getting 300hp with just a new fuel pump and thermostat

 

notice i want to run 12's, my car stock runs about 16 flat, thats slow. Jrsc wont put me into 12's

 

you want 12's? thats gonna be alot of money and alot of engine work buddy, you'll need to run alot higher than 8-9 psi, need a built engine and other such stuff

 

how about a JRSC + some 100 shot laughing gas?

 

12s and a very reliable turbo car? Pick one or the other because you won't be getting both.

 

NO NOS

 

Even High twelves? I caNT HAVE A RELIABLE TURBO THAT RUNS 12'S? ill even take 12.9 , 12.8 or 13.0 even if i fully build?

 

you need to buld the whole engine up from the block, ironm sleeves, lower compression pistons, etc etc etc lala over 5,000 in engine mods, then slap the fmax turbo on then call it a day after you get triple "a" cause you might need it if you try to turn the boost up on a stock engine,. my 2 cents. plus i have turbo sitting at home t3 garrett waiting for exhaust manifold, plus im builing the block and head.

 

The engine will stay together, but there is constant maintenance, in order to keep the car running its best. This is the reason that I'm not going turbo. I honestly can't afford the maintenace, but besides all of the maintenance it should be fairly reliable.

 

your atts light is going to light up like a christmas tree...i would just save up for a hondata 2b and larger injectors and ditch the msd btm, mf2, and 2 injectors that come with the fmax kit...get the hondata+injectors and order the fmax without these parts


[Modified by Quaalude, 9:06 PM 3/10/2002]

 

For what you want out of the Prelude, I would go with a custom setup. For anything beyond 8psi or so, you are going to have to do a resleeve, get lower compression pistons, rods and perhaps upgrade the valvetrain if you have the money for it. That is what you are going to need to do to the engine to run 13-14 psi. GE sleeves, JE or Wiseco pistons, Eagle or Crower rods

You are going to need some type of engine management, be it Hondata, AEM EMS, Haltech....pick one a shop near you can tune well. Other things like clutch (ACT or Exedy), exhaust (2.5" or bigger piping), bigger injectors (RC), high flow cat, egt and boost gauge, fuel pump (Walbro or Bosch), fuel rail, fpr, turbo timer, 1 step colder spark plugs, and a boost controller. Well that's about all I can help you with. And as far as ATTS is concerned, no one I've heard of has gotten it to work with high horsepower applications.

Goold luck to you as I am currently working on my setup for a base 97 Prelude.

 

u run 16's stock ? . . . .

 

thats what preludes runs stock, yes

 

im sure preludes go 16 stock .. but i just might be wrong heh

 

The cost affective way.....

1- rev hard or miami performance turbo kits using a t3-t4 hybrid turbo and a front mount intercooler.

2- a block guard

3-9.5-1 compression JE pistons with chrome molly rings

4-Apexi V-AFC

5- Webcams cams, springs, and retainers

6-stainless stell valves

7-a good port and polish would help

8-a little bit of race gas for the track

the stock H22 rods are strong. using the blaockguard you should be able to safely run close to 20lbs of boost. I would run about 15 all the time. As long as you dont plan on nailing it in everyday traffic. All you need is someone that can tune your car and some nitto 555r drag radials and you should be able to hit 12's and still be reliable.

For me personally i am going all out and lookin to hit 10's in a street driven prelude.

Theoretically you should be able to get around 400whp on stock internals on an h22.

-Jesse

 

I dont know Jesse that seems a little absurd to be able to run 12's on stock internals, that wont last very long...and i drive my car all the time. But if you really know what your talking about, that is the best post Ive gotten so far. Where do you live? Im in west palm, do you know any good places to tune here? Please let me know? I wouldnt mind spending a little more money and makiing it even more reliable, what about the issue with the atts? Does revhard have a kit for preludes? and what is a blockguard...thanks man....oh an miami performance turbo kits...can you give me a link to their site or some info about them.


[Modified by showlude, 11:52 AM 3/13/2002]

 

1) Preludes don't run 16's stock.
2) Look to spend $3k for a turbo set-up
3) $3k for a built bottom end
4) $1500 for injectors and fuel management
5) $2000 for misc crap
6) $500 for tuning
7) $700 for slicks
8) $25 fee to get to the track

~$10,725 will get you 12's reliably.

Tom

 

Deadly-Lude,

20 PSI with a VAFC, Block-guard, and stock rods!?! Dude are you nuts?

 

No, he's right. You hit 20 psi with that setup. The only problem is that you can only do it once before you have to get towed back to the shop, to do the build up correctly.

 

LOL, oh my bad I guess I didn't look at it that way.

 

The question regarding the ATTS if going turbo? I have a SH myself and I've asked other people who've gone turbo with their SH and what they've all said was pretty much the same......you disconnect your ATTS to make your lude run properly. peace

 

Then the next questions is how do you get an LSD like Quaife to work on a Turbo'ed SH with the ATTS de-activated?

I guessing that a lot of people that bought SH's never thought they would go FI. I guess If you're buying a Lude and plan on going FI, the Base Lude would be the best one to get.

 

Quaife...LSD?? Oh and whats the difference between ecu, fmu, hondata, and standalone? Sorry if its a dumb question but I keep hearing those terms and dont understand them

 

I said that with a block guard your sleeves would hold 20 lbs of boost daily. Atleast thats the way I meant it. The stock rods are rather strong. I know that they are able to hold a 150 shot regularly. If you want to spend a little more then go ahead and buy the rods. It would make it even nore reliable. You should be able to get a prelude into the 12's with a v-afc and stock injectors. I will be at the shop today so I will check into it. A blockguard is a metal sleeve that goes around the the top of the cylinder sleeves. It fills in the gap at the top except for some coolant passages so that the floating cylinders that honda uses in the H22a4 have more support and higher tolerances. I hope that gives you a good idea of what it is.

ATTS- well i will check on that also. I have no idea as of right now except it doesn't like boost.

I will also look up miami performance website and/or number