untuned ls vtec?
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From: pensacola, fl, usa
I'm about to buy a hatch with lsvtec done to it. The problem is its going to have to endure along drive home and the car is untuned. I've heard that it is unsafe and has to be tuned before driving. He's been driving it to school and work with no problems thus far, any suggestions? thanks
mods are:
Motor:
ITR Head
skunk2 valve springs
skunk2 retainers
skunk2 cam gears
ctr cams
LS block:
Golden Rods
JE high compression pistons
micropolished crank
fully rebuilt
arp head studs
B16 Tranny
Exedy Clutch
B&M short shifter
and is currently using a 92-95 vtec ecu. p28 or somethign i don't recall.
mods are:
Motor:
ITR Head
skunk2 valve springs
skunk2 retainers
skunk2 cam gears
ctr cams
LS block:
Golden Rods
JE high compression pistons
micropolished crank
fully rebuilt
arp head studs
B16 Tranny
Exedy Clutch
B&M short shifter
and is currently using a 92-95 vtec ecu. p28 or somethign i don't recall.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,933
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From: Garden Grove 714 Orange County, CA, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sheBangZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm about to buy a hatch with lsvtec done to it. The problem is its going to have to endure along drive home and the car is untuned. I've heard that it is unsafe and has to be tuned before driving. He's been driving it to school and work with no problems thus far, any suggestions? thanks
mods are:
Motor:
ITR Head
skunk2 valve springs
skunk2 retainers
skunk2 cam gears
ctr cams
LS block:
Golden Rods
JE high compression pistons
micropolished crank
fully rebuilt
arp head studs
B16 Tranny
Exedy Clutch
B&M short shifter
and is currently using a 92-95 vtec ecu. p28 or somethign i don't recall. </TD></TR></TABLE>
No you don't need to get it tuned and yes it would be best for it to get it tuned. And no it won't blow up on you if you drive it 3ft out of his garage. Don't worry about the long drive, just make sure you play it safe and drive slow. And if he's running a p28 ecu, most likely its a chipped p28 for a b-series application. That's what most people would do.
mods are:
Motor:
ITR Head
skunk2 valve springs
skunk2 retainers
skunk2 cam gears
ctr cams
LS block:
Golden Rods
JE high compression pistons
micropolished crank
fully rebuilt
arp head studs
B16 Tranny
Exedy Clutch
B&M short shifter
and is currently using a 92-95 vtec ecu. p28 or somethign i don't recall. </TD></TR></TABLE>
No you don't need to get it tuned and yes it would be best for it to get it tuned. And no it won't blow up on you if you drive it 3ft out of his garage. Don't worry about the long drive, just make sure you play it safe and drive slow. And if he's running a p28 ecu, most likely its a chipped p28 for a b-series application. That's what most people would do.
it should be fine, just need to know how much fuel is you are dumping and ck the fuel psi. I would say no more the 40-42 psi. then you should be fine. If you don't have a vafc or afpr, chipped Ecu then there is really nothing to be tuned. You can ck the timing yourself. and also the fuel psi.
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your fine if you dont care about your motor, you spend X dollars on all these parts with a unchipped ecu ment to run d16z6? get it tuned, youll be better of in the end. You have high compression piston runign the fuel and timing curves of a sohc vtec.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CBURKE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it should be fine, just need to know how much fuel is you are dumping and ck the fuel psi. I would say no more the 40-42 psi. then you should be fine. If you don't have a vafc or afpr, chipped Ecu then there is really nothing to be tuned. You can ck the timing yourself. and also the fuel psi.</TD></TR></TABLE>
nothing to be tuned? dude eveymotor is different, how does some ebay kid know exactley what to do to make chips?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CBURKE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it should be fine, just need to know how much fuel is you are dumping and ck the fuel psi. I would say no more the 40-42 psi. then you should be fine. If you don't have a vafc or afpr, chipped Ecu then there is really nothing to be tuned. You can ck the timing yourself. and also the fuel psi.</TD></TR></TABLE>
nothing to be tuned? dude eveymotor is different, how does some ebay kid know exactley what to do to make chips?
Why is everyone so polarized? There IS a middle ground here.
Personally I wouldn't start it up w/o putting in at least a basemap for a p72, which would be close. The deal is that if you baby it, it will be able to correct the AF ratio enough to not cause any damage. Assuming the o2 sensor is working fine, the honda ecu will try dumping more fuel to get close to ~14.7:1. When the throttle is wide open, it won't be correcting the AF ratio at all - and run MUCH more lean. With it being ctr cams, I definately wouldn't let vtec enguage either. If it was me, I'd buy a B&M FPR (or other brand, but that's the cheapest one I trust enough) and turn it up a few PSI just for the drive home. FYI honda injectors have been tested to function optimally at a bit above 50psi, which is where it would be at WOT, so don't sweat a few more PSI for one drive.
Of course, it goes w/o saying that you WILL at very least have it tuned with a wideband once you get it home. IMO I'd get it tuned with at minimum Crome, and optimally with Neptune. Before you buy it, do a leakdown and compression test on it to see if it's at least half-way fine.
Personally I wouldn't start it up w/o putting in at least a basemap for a p72, which would be close. The deal is that if you baby it, it will be able to correct the AF ratio enough to not cause any damage. Assuming the o2 sensor is working fine, the honda ecu will try dumping more fuel to get close to ~14.7:1. When the throttle is wide open, it won't be correcting the AF ratio at all - and run MUCH more lean. With it being ctr cams, I definately wouldn't let vtec enguage either. If it was me, I'd buy a B&M FPR (or other brand, but that's the cheapest one I trust enough) and turn it up a few PSI just for the drive home. FYI honda injectors have been tested to function optimally at a bit above 50psi, which is where it would be at WOT, so don't sweat a few more PSI for one drive.
Of course, it goes w/o saying that you WILL at very least have it tuned with a wideband once you get it home. IMO I'd get it tuned with at minimum Crome, and optimally with Neptune. Before you buy it, do a leakdown and compression test on it to see if it's at least half-way fine.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why is everyone so polarized? There IS a middle ground here.
Personally I wouldn't start it up w/o putting in at least a basemap for a p72, which would be close. The deal is that if you baby it, it will be able to correct the AF ratio enough to not cause any damage. Assuming the o2 sensor is working fine, the honda ecu will try dumping more fuel to get close to ~14.7:1. When the throttle is wide open, it won't be correcting the AF ratio at all - and run MUCH more lean. With it being ctr cams, I definately wouldn't let vtec enguage either. If it was me, I'd buy a B&M FPR (or other brand, but that's the cheapest one I trust enough) and turn it up a few PSI just for the drive home. FYI honda injectors have been tested to function optimally at a bit above 50psi, which is where it would be at WOT, so don't sweat a few more PSI for one drive.
Of course, it goes w/o saying that you WILL at very least have it tuned with a wideband once you get it home. IMO I'd get it tuned with at minimum Crome, and optimally with Neptune. Before you buy it, do a leakdown and compression test on it to see if it's at least half-way fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
p72 is a great map to start with, but notice the high compression piston? alos the oem o2 sensor is useless for tuning and after 70% throttle you car is in open loop so what ever that map says, the car is shooting. So probally this dude beat teh **** out of it. There is no middle ground, the car has been bastardized and probally beaten to ****.
Personally I wouldn't start it up w/o putting in at least a basemap for a p72, which would be close. The deal is that if you baby it, it will be able to correct the AF ratio enough to not cause any damage. Assuming the o2 sensor is working fine, the honda ecu will try dumping more fuel to get close to ~14.7:1. When the throttle is wide open, it won't be correcting the AF ratio at all - and run MUCH more lean. With it being ctr cams, I definately wouldn't let vtec enguage either. If it was me, I'd buy a B&M FPR (or other brand, but that's the cheapest one I trust enough) and turn it up a few PSI just for the drive home. FYI honda injectors have been tested to function optimally at a bit above 50psi, which is where it would be at WOT, so don't sweat a few more PSI for one drive.
Of course, it goes w/o saying that you WILL at very least have it tuned with a wideband once you get it home. IMO I'd get it tuned with at minimum Crome, and optimally with Neptune. Before you buy it, do a leakdown and compression test on it to see if it's at least half-way fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
p72 is a great map to start with, but notice the high compression piston? alos the oem o2 sensor is useless for tuning and after 70% throttle you car is in open loop so what ever that map says, the car is shooting. So probally this dude beat teh **** out of it. There is no middle ground, the car has been bastardized and probally beaten to ****.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sheBangZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">motor has 500 miles still on break in period. </TD></TR></TABLE>
you can kill a motor in less than that, talk to earl, he will fill you in on the importance of tune.
you can kill a motor in less than that, talk to earl, he will fill you in on the importance of tune.
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