Trying to be quick about it --

Got out to a local shop's dyno day yesterday and got three pulls. Trust me, there are three runs on this chart -- it's almost boring, it's so featureless and consistent.. lol

Good a/f from bottom to top, flat-*** torque curve from 2800 RPM to cutoff, and none of the wiggly bumps I saw from the Evo VIII MR and slightly-modded turbo Eclipse that ran at about the same time. I mainly went to see whether the air/fuel ratio was healthy, and I was pleasantly surprised to see how flat the torque curve turned out to be. I had him start sampling at a lower RPM on the third run -- that's the red line.

No Hondata, Mugen airbox, OEM RSX Type-S header & catalytic convertor, Fujitsubo RM-01A exhaust, premium gas (forget whether it's 91 or 93 octane). Peaked at about 158 whp and 131 ft-lbs.

Never dyno'ed my car before, so I don't know what the gain really is from the parts, but I'm happy with the smoothness of the whole thing.

 

159 on a Dynojet is pretty good for a car that came out of the box with 160 SAE Net.

My guess is you jumped from 160 SAE Net to about 190.

 

Yeah, that's what I figure -- I'll have to get a second opinion on another dyno somewhere around here and see if these numbers hold up. Hopefully with similar weather conditions, too.

 

I wish they had measured it beginning at a lower RPM.

The great strength of the A3 motor is how well it does at low RPM in higher gears. I believe peak torque with the OEM setup is actually at 2500 RPM, isn't it?

 

According to Hondata's dyno graph, the stock torque peak was about 3500 RPM, staying within 5 ft-lbs or so until 6000 RPM. I was concerned that maybe the larger exhaust (RSX-S parts are about 1/4" to 1/2" bigger already) would lose low-end torque, but maybe it's alright after all.

 

looks pretty good

 

Barracks that is pretty damn solid with the old a3! Now get the a2 and add Hondata and IPS k2 cams with your i/h/e and law down 225 whp. That would be a hot setup.

 

Gimme the $$$$ and I'll get that A2...

 

Those are very good numbers for an a3.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BarracksSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Gimme the $$$$ and I'll get that A2...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am a financial advisor at a bank, be happy to lend you some!

 

Barracks did you do your h/i/e all at one time or piece by piece? Did you have to modify the dc5 header to fit at all? Did your butt dyno register the increase of the 30 net hp?

Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by giff74 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Barracks that is pretty damn solid with the old a3! Now get the a2 and add Hondata and IPS k2 cams with your i/h/e and law down 225 whp. That would be a hot setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>

wouldn't he need to up the c/r if he was gonna be able to achieve 225whp?

i'm just askin here, tryin to learn some k20 knowledge... but if he gets the a2 head.. then he's gonna need th compression to match up, basically having a type s motor w/out the tranny right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SeanJohn1802 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wouldn't he need to up the c/r if he was gonna be able to achieve 225whp?</TD></TR></TABLE>
He meant to put in the whole A2 motor, not just the head.

At least one other EP driver did the head swap but kept the 5-speed tranny, and he was fairly disappointed -- the higher-revving A2 head really works better with the 6-speed, and he didn't notice any significant gains.

I had the V2 intake since last November, and put the stock airbox back on for a while towards the end of this summer. I put the entire exhaust on right before Labor Day. The airbox was last, going on in the first half of September. I didn't need to modify the header or cat at all -- I did need to get a K20A2-specific bracket to mount the header to the block, but everything else was pretty simple. No cutting or adapters needed.

Exhaust install thread:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1365602

giff74, get me a 0% interest loan and we'll talk...

My butt actually could tell the difference, mainly soon after installing everything. I've kinda gotten used to it since then, but I haven't been in a stock EP in a while to remind myself of the difference, either.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BarracksSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My butt actually could tell the difference, mainly soon after installing everything. I've kinda gotten used to it since then, but I haven't been in a stock EP in a while to remind myself of the difference, either.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well driving your car the last time you were down here after the exhaust install, I did notice that it felt a lot better than mine (stock).

-Victor

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97 TYPE-R 312 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well driving your car the last time you were down here after the exhaust install, I did notice that it felt a lot better than mine (stock).

-Victor</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would just like to clarify, for the record, that when he says "... it felt a lot better than mine..", he's talking about the CAR...

 

We weren't going to say anything.

 

I'm not going to even ask what you were thinking about. But I'm impressed with your dyno results.

-Victor

 

looks good

 

interesting results.

as for the rest: don't ask, don't tell.

 

Interesting thing I've learned this week:

If, after a burnout, your shifter doesn't move in & out of gear as easily, you've shaken the motor enough that the lower intake tube (the one that goes into the airbox) popped loose and is sitting on top of the shift linkage.

Freaked me out -- made me feel bad about abusing my EP. Now I'm going to call the dealership and tell them I won't need my tranny checked out on Monday.